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Old 06-09-2021, 09:12 AM   #1
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2014 Aspire - under the shower stall repair

Hey Integra peeps.... I have some questions and am new, so not quite sure where to go to get the info...

A cap on the unused port of the shower diverter broke on my 2014 Aspire. It doesn't leak water unless I try to use the shower.

To get access to it, I had to cut the caulked seal around the shower stall, unscrewed all the square-head screws in the framing that attaches the shower stall to the floor and walls and pull the stall away from the wall to access the diverter.

To physically move the stall required un-screwing the drain from the P-trap, but that proved impossible as it was on there tight. So when I moved the stall, the drain connection "popped" out of the P-trap connection.

I can find the diverter cap in the local hardware store, as well as a replacement drain and P-trap (although I am going to put a flexible hose in from the drain to the P-trap for ease of installation), but in order to do the re-install of the drain and P-trap, I need access to that part of the floor from under the coach. There is no access panel in the flooring from the bottom to do this, so I will have to cut the flooring bottom, along with the waterproof barrier outside to create an access path to the drain and P-trap.

My question is this, what method can I use to properly re-seal the bottom membrane once all repairs are done and the access flooring re-installed ? I don't know if I should cover the hole with some sort of an access door for future accessibility, replace the membrane over that section and re-seal for a permanent fix, or what that waterproof (or maybe just splash-proof ??) membrane is, or how to seal it ? Anyone have to make this kind of repair before that could share some insight with me ???
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Old 06-09-2021, 11:34 AM   #2
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I've never been where you've described (but would love to see pics!)
But I have repaired tears and holes in the membrane with 100% silicon caulk....clean the area as best you can and lay a thick layer of caulk ....let dry several days before moving.
I think I would try to cover a large cut out area as you described with a 1/8" thick aluminum plate then caulk and screw the plate over the access hole.
Does that sound reasonable?

John
2015 44b
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Old 06-09-2021, 02:42 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by jmorse1 View Post
I've never been where you've described (but would love to see pics!)
But I have repaired tears and holes in the membrane with 100% silicon caulk....clean the area as best you can and lay a thick layer of caulk ....let dry several days before moving.
I think I would try to cover a large cut out area as you described with a 1/8" thick aluminum plate then caulk and screw the plate over the access hole.
Does that sound reasonable?

John
2015 44b
I've been thinking the same thing... some sort of access panel, sealed against the elements...

I've got to take pix for Entegra, so they can offer their suggestions...

I'll post them and my eventual solution
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Old 06-09-2021, 03:53 PM   #4
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I had Entegra do mine. Ended up opening bedroom floor and replacing insulation. It was a big deal, was at the factory for a week plus.
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Old 06-10-2021, 08:38 AM   #5
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I had Entegra do mine. Ended up opening bedroom floor and replacing insulation. It was a big deal, was at the factory for a week plus.
Thanks... I am trying to avoid that (it's not in the budget)

The parts to fix the drain and shower attachments are only a couple hundred dollars, and the insulation and cover are insignificant...

I just want to make sure that whatever I put on the bottom to reseal the waterproof membrane is up to snuff as far as how Entegra would have done it in their shop...
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Old 06-10-2021, 09:01 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by joelyon.rv View Post
Thanks... I am trying to avoid that (it's not in the budget)

The parts to fix the drain and shower attachments are only a couple hundred dollars, and the insulation and cover are insignificant...

I just want to make sure that whatever I put on the bottom to reseal the waterproof membrane is up to snuff as far as how Entegra would have done it in their shop...

My Trap nut was an issue originally. Turned out the 1x they used to hold the shower pan up turned, and the pan would dip when you were in the shower. If you saw water coming out the bottom, chances are it seeped into the bedroom insulation. They pulled the shower out and replaced the structural supports. The pan already was a one pc setup, they just repair the wall tile and grouted if I am remembering correctly. I was surprised that the insulation in the bedroom was wet. On mine the bed was removed, flooring opened and new insulation and flooring installed. It was major effort but came out better and stronger than news. If you can not confirm with them as to the membrane, just contact a ceramic tile company. The membranes are all pretty similar. Godd luck.
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Old 06-10-2021, 09:35 AM   #7
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That sure sounds like a lot of work. The mirror in the bedroom is the access point for the plumbing I believe. You shouldn't have had to remove the shower. The RV industry uses mirrors and pictures to hide access panels.



I would call entegra and ask them how to resolve this problem. They'll probably send you drawings.
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Old 06-10-2021, 12:42 PM   #8
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That sure sounds like a lot of work. The mirror in the bedroom is the access point for the plumbing I believe. You shouldn't have had to remove the shower. The RV industry uses mirrors and pictures to hide access panels.



I would call entegra and ask them how to resolve this problem. They'll probably send you drawings.
My initial issue could have been resolved if I knew that before I disconnected the shower drain (which I will check to see if that is true about the diverter access panel), but at this point, the repairs to the diverter have been made, and I'm looking to cleanly access and repair the P-trap and connection to the shower drain.
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Old 06-14-2021, 06:40 AM   #9
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Ok Entegra peeps... the shower situation has been resolved.

The under-the-coach water barrier is much like, if not identical, to roofing paper... it is a water barrier to keep the plywood dry from road spray. So after making marks from the inside (which entailed removing the trim and caulking from around the shower stall, removing the shower fixtures themselves and GENTLY moving the stall far enough away from its normal resting place), we were able to clean out the damp insulation, dry out the sub-floor, cut a hole in the sub-floor so the drain and P-trap could be accessed from the outside-bottom, replace the $2.50 PLASTIC cap at the bottom of the diverter that broke with a $4.50 BRASS one, replace the drain over the P-trap. Then we cut a new piece of the thin luan sub-flooring, attacted it to a couple of 2x4 nailers we screwed to the sub-floor beams, sealed up the seams of the luan with silicone, then applied a sticky spray to the membrane backing and stapled it to the bottom of the coach, ensuring it covered twice over the size of the hole we cut. Re-installed the shower, it's holding trim, caulking and replaced all the shower fixtures...

All in all, it was one day to disassemble, and one day to repair and re-assemble...

It looks good, is watertight and saved me, according to an RV tech we talked to, somewhere between $1,500 and $2,500... all it cost me was about $200 in parts and dinner for my talented brother who guided me in the work (he's torn apart many bathrooms in homes to rebuild / repair)....
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Old 06-14-2021, 06:50 AM   #10
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Glad it worked out for you. So the trap was the only issue you found and the pan supports were good?
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Old 06-14-2021, 06:57 AM   #11
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Well done, it's good when a plan comes together!

Did you get a chance to takeany pictures?
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Old 06-14-2021, 07:30 AM   #12
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Nice that you saw it through to completion. You learned, we learned. Thanks for the follow up.
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