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Old 05-01-2016, 11:09 AM   #1
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Advice Needed and Appreciated

We're in the process of getting bids from different builders of "post frame" buildings (pole barns). We're operating in the dark here because, we've been around construction for a number of years, we've never had to put up a barn before. We're looking at 42X64 with heated concrete floors but would appreciate input and advice from those that have already been through this.

What company do you recommend? AND stay away from

If you had to do it all over again what would you change?

2 overhead doors or one large one?

14ft openings high enough?

Put in a ceiling or leave it open?

6 inch reinforced concrete enough?

This building will be my ultimate man cave and a place to keep the Entegra. I'm amazed with the competition between the companies with each one throwing the competition in the under the bus.

I appreciate all input on this
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:00 PM   #2
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I had a local builder build a 40X80 building when I had a stick and brick. I think you can get a better job for less money if you can find someone local.
Mine was framed not pole barn and fully wired. 20X40 was partioned off, fully insulated and sheeted. It had 14 ft. sidewalls, but wished I had made them 16ft. and put in a 14 ft. door.
If I were you and had the space I'd put a 14ft. door at each end especially if you're going to put a mh in it.
Yes 6in. of reinforced concrete is sufficient.
My ceiling was open except for the 20X40 shop. All the walls were 2X6 and trussed roof so it was all open. Noel
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:41 PM   #3
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You've probably checked with Cleary and Morton.

This may not be an option for you but the last pole barn we built we purchased from Home Depot. Used their computer to lay everything out. The program them spits out a parts list to order. It gets delivered with assembly instructions. If this is something you don't want to tackle yourself with some friends help as we did, hire a crew to do the work and act as your own general contractor. This could save some money in the long run but will require a more hands on approach than you may be able or willing to provide.

I might also consider higher side walls if you wan roof access to your coach while it's parked inside. Especially if you put in a finished ceiling. If not finished, at 14' you will be climbing through trusses as you move along the top of the coach.
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Old 05-01-2016, 02:00 PM   #4
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What company do you recommend? AND stay away from.
I used the local Amish builders and was very pleased with the building.
If you had to do it all over again what would you change?
Nothing I went with 40 x 60, with metal side and roof
2 overhead doors or one large one?
I went with two doors
14ft openings high enough?
My Anthem with in motion satellite tracking floor to top 13' 2" my doors are 14' which is really 13'10" with the door header.
Put in a ceiling or leave it open?
I left open with 30" vent fan for removing summer hot air and motor exhaust, that way I didn't need to use ridge vent on the roof. I also rebuild / work on Jeeps so now I can remove exhaust while tuning them as well.
6 inch reinforced concrete enough?
My concrete contractor went with 6" reinforced with steel mesh and fiberglass. He also informed me concrete does two things; get hard and cracks, it took 5 years with small crack by floor drain.
This building will be my ultimate man cave and a place to keep the Entegra. I'm amazed with the competition between the companies with each one throwing the competition in the under the bus.

I did feed electric service to the shed that allows for 30 amp service, as well self draining water faucet and 4" sewer line. Now I can fill water, dump holding tanks and pre-cool frig before we leave. I went to the local "National Lease" service shop as offered the guy $10 for old mud flaps that I could park the coach on the keep tires off concrete during long storage. I got them for free.

Suggestion I built the barn for 2003 Winnebago and painted strips from so I could "place" my tires on them during backing. My 2014 Entegra is just a bit wider. I had to pay for my concrete to be "shot cleaned" of the paint. This time I used road safety tape like the road workers use to mark my backing line as well where my rear wheels should be stopped at.

On the South side the Amish suggested a 2' fiberglass "clear" panels at the top to allow light in, it was great suggestion and stops me from using lights all the time.

Last item, my barn has eight (8) 500watt flood lights on the header board. As the halogen bulbs burn out I am replacing with LED bulbs. May I suggest keeping the lights on the header board and not overhead hanging fixtures. It's just easier to keep your balance using the wall, then climbing a tall freestanding A frame ladder.

Best wishes on your upcoming build.
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Old 05-01-2016, 02:34 PM   #5
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I did a 36x60 not RV specific , I did not plan on a class A. I want a class A now, door is 12x12.

I did 1 door in the long end , I need to parallel park the class c 32ft, but I have lots of storage space in front of the RV.

Amish built it, nothing special, some stuff could have been better.

Concrete - I did 6" fiber reinforced with 6x6 wire 5000 psi. I have it tubed for heat 8 120 ft zones, wire was set on plastic chairs to keep the tube in the middle of the concrete, I think is BS when they say they pull the wire up as they go, 6 guys standing on it is gonna push it back to the bottom. I also used zip strips for joints 8 years and no cracks.

Interior I hung metal my self , I did the walls in 13 ft panels, not a good idea, do it in 2 pieces , ceiling I did in 21 ft panels another bad idea that was heavy. Spray foam in the walls for insulation and blow in in the ceiling ( spray guy flaked out on me )

Electric - install conduit into to floor 2" minium 2 or 3 you can always cap off. Also run a 2" conduit from the electric box under the floor to to other side of the garage, easier to go under vs around the perimeter.
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Old 05-01-2016, 04:53 PM   #6
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I built a 24x52 pole barn with 16' side walls from Timberline Builders, an Amish company in southern PA. The do go out west but I don't know how far you can check their web site. 12 x 14 overhead door that I am happy with Plenty of room for storage, including my kar kaddy ss. A non folding tow dolly will not fit. I didn't have room at my home so I found an acre of land next to cell tower nearby. Bought the land for $3,000.00. Left the ceiling open with a ridge vent for air flow. 1 man door. No windows for security reasons. Installed 200 amp service (myself) and did 8 each 8' t-12 fluorescent lights inside mounted the the trusses. It's daylight in there to work. Installed an alarm system and video monitors that I can see from my cell, tablet or computer. Put insulation on the inside of the roof for condesensation as there is no heat to the building. This was done during consrtuction. On the hottest day, there is a cool circulation of air with the 12x14 overhead open. I had to put an external antenna for the door opener because of all the metal, but works great. I did a 6" floor with fiberglass and is holding perfectly. Total building cost was $25,000 including floor. Land grade, driveway and electric was additional expense. All done and said, I have about $30,000 into it all. Without heat inside, I did a frost free hydrant outside the building with a shut off that I can access near the main line. I was dealing with Pioneer builders for 3 months and was not happy wi them so I looked at Timberline. Could not be happier. It's big enough, and is exactly what I need with plenty of room when I move up to a bigger coach. BUT... Bigger is always better...heat is even better still...but it's all I needed and I'm happy with my decision. Dropped the extra cash into saving for an upgraded Entegra in a year or 2. I purchased 4 horse stall mats to park on which are great. I use my back up camera with a mark on one of the cross members on the rear wall to park the coach at the right depth. I mounted 2 household nite lights on the rear wall verticals posts that come on when the overhead is opened to align the coach left to right. The distance between the posts is perfect. Good luck! These is a thread on this forum about "show my your garage" with a lot of advice and pictures....
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:18 AM   #7
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Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Hopefully I can get this project wrapped up this week and get in line for the build date
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:22 AM   #8
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We just got done building a 60 X 88 building. I put in 2 14 X 14 and 1 14 X 14 for the coach to park in. The building minus electric and down spouts was completed in 5 days, on a site that was already prepared. Couldn't be happier.
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:28 PM   #9
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I spent a good share of my day on the phone and I had a lengthy in person visit from a building rep. It sounds like the project just grew a little more to a 48x60. I'm also leaning toward a 30x14 ft door instead of 2 14x14 doors on one end and a single 10x8 door in the back corner for the lawn tractor and such.

If anybody has any other suggestions please let me know. I'm fearful of a 100k mistake that I can't just trade in to get rid of.
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbhobbs54 View Post
We just got done building a 60 X 88 building. I put in 2 14 X 14 and 1 14 X 14 for the coach to park in. The building minus electric and down spouts was completed in 5 days, on a site that was already prepared. Couldn't be happier.

It's amazing how fast these buildings can go up. What manufacture did you use?
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PPAinPA View Post
I built a 24x52 pole barn with 16' side walls from Timberline Builders, an Amish company in southern PA. The do go out west but I don't know how far you can check their web site. 12 x 14 overhead door that I am happy with Plenty of room for storage, including my kar kaddy ss. A non folding tow dolly will not fit. I didn't have room at my home so I found an acre of land next to cell tower nearby. Bought the land for $3,000.00. Left the ceiling open with a ridge vent for air flow. 1 man door. No windows for security reasons. Installed 200 amp service (myself) and did 8 each 8' t-12 fluorescent lights inside mounted the the trusses. It's daylight in there to work. Installed an alarm system and video monitors that I can see from my cell, tablet or computer. Put insulation on the inside of the roof for condesensation as there is no heat to the building. This was done during consrtuction. On the hottest day, there is a cool circulation of air with the 12x14 overhead open. I had to put an external antenna for the door opener because of all the metal, but works great. I did a 6" floor with fiberglass and is holding perfectly. Total building cost was $25,000 including floor. Land grade, driveway and electric was additional expense. All done and said, I have about $30,000 into it all. Without heat inside, I did a frost free hydrant outside the building with a shut off that I can access near the main line. I was dealing with Pioneer builders for 3 months and was not happy wi them so I looked at Timberline. Could not be happier. It's big enough, and is exactly what I need with plenty of room when I move up to a bigger coach. BUT... Bigger is always better...heat is even better still...but it's all I needed and I'm happy with my decision. Dropped the extra cash into saving for an upgraded Entegra in a year or 2. I purchased 4 horse stall mats to park on which are great. I use my back up camera with a mark on one of the cross members on the rear wall to park the coach at the right depth. I mounted 2 household nite lights on the rear wall verticals posts that come on when the overhead is opened to align the coach left to right. The distance between the posts is perfect. Good luck! These is a thread on this forum about "show my your garage" with a lot of advice and pictures....
Paul,

thanks for the detailed information. I did look at the thread "show me your garage". I was originally going to do a 24x60 garage thinking that this would be enough room for the coach. Once my 3 sons and I started talking, this project grew to a 40x60. Now it just leaped again to a 48x60 and I think it has to stop there due to money and land restraints.

Thankfully we're a close knit bunch and there won't be a shortage of activities with this new "man cave". We will have the full metal interior with the heated concrete floors. I'm still fearful that I'm missing something important though.
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:28 AM   #12
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Dave it was a local builder PAW construction. All his business is done by word of mouth, no advertising. I checked a few of his buildings out before I signed with him, just to make sure it was all good. It is so nice to come home back the coach into the garage, plug it in, put the slides out etc. Your right it is a big expense, but well worth it in the end.
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:44 AM   #13
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I built a 40 x 80. I have two 14' overhead doors on Liftmaster commerical lifts. I bought insulated doors, one 12' wide on a long wall, and one 16' wide on and end wall. Due to my property and where I wanted it, I can't drive through.

I have 6" reinforced mesh concrete on about 8" of crushed limestone and then about 10" of sand/gravel since my property has an unlimited amount of pit run in it and I did it myself for free, so it'll probably never crack!

I went pole barn construction on 16' walls with a 25' peak on the roof due to local HOA rules. Ridge vent only. No insulation. I have 100 amp service in the building.

The antennae touch the overhead doors as I drive it, but that's it. The 12' door is too narrow other than for strictly straight in or out driving.

I wouldn't go much less than 80' long. The coach is 45', but if you want to maneuver at all to a side of the building, you'll need length to drive in the building. If I could have, I would have definitely gone 100' long. Not allowed by HOA rules.

Cost me about $50,000 with concrete, but I did a lot myself and I have a very unconventional build. I have a full asphalt shingle roof and full 8" cedar siding look side walls with 60" windows and shutters etc. HOA rules required the building to look like my house.

So, it definitely could have been done for less. Was way less than Cleary or Morton etc. They only wanted to do steel pole barn type walls and roof. Went with a local builder to Southern WI, which I would recommend without hesitation.

I hope this helps.
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