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02-29-2020, 02:03 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,732
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAS30
The filter failed at 17 months. Filter was installed on 2/2018. The big issue with this filter failure is that it was put together with glue only. It didn’t have the outer metal bands or perforated shell to help hold it together. It was a Wix filter sold by NAPA as their Gold series.
I always check the filter gauge when doing my under hood check on pre & post trip. I saw that it had drastically(from 8 to 24) changed after returning from a trip and thinking possibly a critter of some type had possibly homesteaded in the filter causing blockage that increased the vacuum on the gauge. This is what I found . I consider myself very lucky, as the paper had not yet made its way into the turbo or engine.
I have often wondered why the vacuum gauge , even with a new filter was always 8 or more . Thinking the intake cavity in the back cap was possibly restricting the air flow. I removed the elbow from the cap to the filter and now the gauge doesn’t read any increase . I also picked up boost pressure and fuel mileage.
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The paper media on your failed filter didn't have any staining on it like it possibly got wet?
__________________
Ben & Sharon
2008 43' Holiday Rambler Scepter PDQ
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02-29-2020, 06:24 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Entegra Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fqberful
I have a 2020 Cornerstone and I see what you mean. They put that trans fill/dip stick tube in the way and there's no holes in the rear or bottom big enough to put the filter through.
I'll bet the bathroom floor panel is the way to go because there's plenty of room on top of the engine and the access panel appears to be large enough.
Next time I get the coach opened up I'll measure it to be sure.
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It's been a while since I looked in the engine compartment of a K3 chassis and I wasn't really looking at how to remove and replace the air cleaner...but...I know on my K2 chassis, it's easy to unbolt the support bracket for the transmission and engine oil dipsticks and position them out of the way to facilitate the air cleaner remove/replace. Pretty sure that's easier than going through the access panel.
Take care,
Stu
__________________
"I would rather have questions that can't be answered than answers that can't be questioned."
2018 Anthem 42DEQ
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02-29-2020, 09:42 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777 Driver
It's been a while since I looked in the engine compartment of a K3 chassis and I wasn't really looking at how to remove and replace the air cleaner...but...I know on my K2 chassis, it's easy to unbolt the support bracket for the transmission and engine oil dipsticks and position them out of the way to facilitate the air cleaner remove/replace. Pretty sure that's easier than going through the access panel.
Take care,
Stu
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My concern with the trans fill / dip stick is that it's a steel tube and I'm not sure how it's attached at the trans. I'm afraid that if I bend it down it might break something. There's also some sensors and other stuff in that area I'd rather not take the chance of damaging.
I guess the ultimate fix would be to cut the welds off the vertical brace and weld a couple tabs on it so it could be bolted back in place.
But for now if the floor access is large enough it would be really easy to go that way. Take the filter loose from the back then push it over on top of the engine then lift out.
__________________
2020 Cornerstone
Quality ? Yeah right.
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03-01-2020, 12:06 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Entegra Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Winter Haven, Fl
Posts: 397
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When we did the training at Spartan in May 2018 they changed my air filter. The tech showed me the old filter and it was all paper. New filter had a metal mesh screen inside to prevent paper from massive fail. I purchased a new filter and took it with me to Alaska. Put that filter in last spring. Air gage still reads ok. Not sure I’ll change filter this year. Methinks having the metal mesh will prevent real bad failures.
__________________
Rick, Kathleen and Lenny and Lola (Yorkies)
2022 VanLeigh Vilano 320GK
2022 RAM3500 SRW HD Diesel Limited
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03-01-2020, 01:06 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Entegra Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Las Colinas, Texas
Posts: 2,029
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I changed my filter last year at Quartzsite. I did not remove the clamp that is holding the Transmission and Oil dip sticks. (didn't have the right tools with me at the time) It took some tweaking and I believe I removed the clamp holding the filter in place, and it was very tight getting the canister our, and the new one in, but it worked. I will change it again next weekend, and plan to take loose the clamp folding the dip sticks, and carefully push it out of the way to remove the filter. I will take some images. I know the Cornerstone is most likely different than mine.
I did change my breather filter on top of the engine this weekend removing the floor in my rear bath. My model did not appear to have enough room to move the canister out that direction, but your model may work fine.
__________________
Mark & Debra Wood, Las Colinas, TX.
2013 Entegra Aspire 42RBQ
2023 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 4XE
2013 Thor Challenger 37DT - Sold
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03-01-2020, 03:33 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 2,582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fqberful
My concern with the trans fill / dip stick is that it's a steel tube and I'm not sure how it's attached at the trans. I'm afraid that if I bend it down it might break something. There's also some sensors and other stuff in that area I'd rather not take the chance of damaging.
I guess the ultimate fix would be to cut the welds off the vertical brace and weld a couple tabs on it so it could be bolted back in place.
But for now if the floor access is large enough it would be really easy to go that way. Take the filter loose from the back then push it over on top of the engine then lift out.
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You can take the tube loose and the filter will come out with no problem.
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03-01-2020, 05:09 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: st george
Posts: 1,387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAS30
The filter failed at 17 months. Filter was installed on 2/2018. The big issue with this filter failure is that it was put together with glue only. It didn’t have the outer metal bands or perforated shell to help hold it together. It was a Wix filter sold by NAPA as their Gold series.
I always check the filter gauge when doing my under hood check on pre & post trip. I saw that it had drastically(from 8 to 24) changed after returning from a trip and thinking possibly a critter of some type had possibly homesteaded in the filter causing blockage that increased the vacuum on the gauge. This is what I found . I consider myself very lucky, as the paper had not yet made its way into the turbo or engine.
I have often wondered why the vacuum gauge , even with a new filter was always 8 or more . Thinking the intake cavity in the back cap was possibly restricting the air flow. I removed the elbow from the cap to the filter and now the gauge doesn’t read any increase . I also picked up boost pressure and fuel mileage.
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I feel my anthem also has this restricted air issue..
How exactly did you re route without out the elbow?
Thanks in advance..
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03-01-2020, 07:53 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowejug
I feel my anthem also has this restricted air issue..
How exactly did you re route without out the elbow?
Thanks in advance..
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I have yet to reroute the elbow. I just removed it from the rear cap and turned it downward(45 degrees) towards the rear of the coach. Also covered the opening with some screen to keep out any large pieces of debris, rodents or possible birds that may want to find their way in. I was just curious as to whether or not there was restriction in the air flow through the rear cap cavity. Now that I know there is, my plan is to remount the filter in a front to rear position where it will pick up fresh air through the openings in the engine bay door. That should be even more efficient as It will eliminate another 45 degree bend from the intake. Hopefully will get this change made in March along with the yearly maintenance.
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03-02-2020, 07:20 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Stocky Falls, NC
Posts: 212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philnail
Open up the engine compartment and remove the canister which houses the air cleaner element. Order the same canister air filter and simply replace it. This unit is sealed so you can just slide out the paper filter
You can also order the K&N filter. That way you can wash the filter off and you are way ahead. I did that a few years ago and love it
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Phil could you tell us the model number for the K&N and what model motor home you have?
Thanks
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03-02-2020, 06:01 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: st george
Posts: 1,387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAS30
I have yet to reroute the elbow. I just removed it from the rear cap and turned it downward(45 degrees) towards the rear of the coach. Also covered the opening with some screen to keep out any large pieces of debris, rodents or possible birds that may want to find their way in. I was just curious as to whether or not there was restriction in the air flow through the rear cap cavity. Now that I know there is, my plan is to remount the filter in a front to rear position where it will pick up fresh air through the openings in the engine bay door. That should be even more efficient as It will eliminate another 45 degree bend from the intake. Hopefully will get this change made in March along with the yearly maintenance.
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Got it.. you avoided the rear cap all together..
Makes sense..
It’s been said in the past that in some model years they used plywood to block any rain water in that cap.. which also would block lots of smooth air flow.. I am convinced many of us have this...
Thanks for the idea..
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03-04-2020, 06:26 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowejug
Got it.. you avoided the rear cap all together..
Makes sense..
It’s been said in the past that in some model years they used plywood to block any rain water in that cap.. which also would block lots of smooth air flow.. I am convinced many of us have this...
Thanks for the idea..
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Yes, the plywood panel is in there. The panel should be at angle and was intended to be a water shed for any excessive amount of water that may come in through the opening on the outside of the rear cap.
If I change the location of the filter air intake to the rear of the coach, yes it will probably take in more dust. But, we are replacing these filters every year anyway. While mostly highway miles, they will not get enough dust on them to hurt the performance. On the plus side, will have a slight increase in mileage and engine performance.
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03-05-2020, 10:40 AM
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#26
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 11
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when you change you air filter make sure it doesn't have anything inside, i just replaced mine on 2015 CS after replacing it would not get up to power, called my mechanic and told him all i did was change the air filter. after about 6 hours and $800 he found a small piece of rubber hose that must have been in the filter and got sucked into the turbo, removed the hose and everything runs great.
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03-06-2020, 04:13 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Peoria IL
Posts: 2,085
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The easiest way to change out the air filter on a K2 chassis, is to remove the bolts for the brackets holding the filter. Remove the brackets with the filter. Spray silicone on the rubber boots and they’ll slide into place easily. I usually can do this job in about 20 minutes.
__________________
2023 Ram 3500 H.O.
2020 DRV
2015 Entegra Aspire RBQ SOLD
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03-06-2020, 09:20 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,454
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I did not read all the posts but I have a 2015 cornerstone. The air filter will slide out , it is tight the oil fil tube needs to move(one bolt) but it is quick and easy.
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