Alignment issue - Steering to the right

[Douglee25]

When I bought my 2016 Aspire 3 years ago (16k miles), as part of our sale agreement, the seller had the rig aligned and I put new tires on it before the 1200 miles trek home. I assumed that the steering to the right was due to the crown in the road. Fast forward to present day, I'm actually getting significant wrist pain in my right hand since it requires constant steering pressure to the left to get it to go straight.

I call a couple of shops to see if they can fit me in for an alignment. The one tech recommended that I swap tires left and right to see if the problem followed the tire. If not, it likely needed an alignment still. The rig now has 32k miles. I jack up the rig and before I remove the tires I do a shake test. Sure enough, the right tire has 1/4" or more of play. I track it down to a bad tie rod end. I'm guessing when the alignment was originally performed, they never did a shake test and the bad parts were never identified.

Last night I removed the steering link, replaced the tie rod ends and finally reinstalled. The RV drives perfectly straight and requires two fingers to go down the road! I can't believe it's gone this long! Trust no one!

[Douglee25]

More pics...

[David 70]

The agreement was for an alignment, not a front end rebuild.

[Douglee25]

Originally Posted by David 70

The agreement was for an alignment, not a front end rebuild.

Since when does replacing tie rod ends constitute a front end rebuild?

Before aligning a vehicle, the tech is supposed to complete a full wheel shake down to identify tie rods, ball joints, bearings, etc that may require replacement. The alignment shouldn't begin until that's addressed first. If we took your approach, vehicles would never hold an alignment after it left the shop.

[justcheckn]

Originally Posted by Douglee25

When I bought my 2016 Aspire 3 years ago (16k miles), as part of our sale agreement, the buyer had the rig aligned and I put new tires on it before the 1200 miles trek home. I assumed that the steering to the right was due to the crown in the road. Fast forward to present day, I'm actually getting significant wrist pain in my right hand since it requires constant steering pressure to the left to get it to go straight.

I call a couple of shops to see if they can fit me in for an alignment. The one tech recommended that I swap tires left and right to see if the problem followed the tire. If not, it likely needed an alignment still. The rig now has 32k miles. I jack up the rig and before I remove the tires I do a shake test. Sure enough, the right tire has 1/4" or more of play. I track it down to a bad tie rod end. I'm guessing when the alignment was originally performed, they never did a shake test and the bad parts were never identified.

Last night I removed the steering link, replaced the tie rod ends and finally reinstalled. The RV drives perfectly straight and requires two fingers to go down the road! I can't believe it's gone this long! Trust no one!

This looks to be the rubber injected non serviceable type end. Saw MANY OF THESE FAIL UNDER 20K miles when I was a service manager for Goodyear!
I’m a 45yr Retired ASE Master tech. My recommendation is to replace all rubber injected non serviceable ends on the coach with serviceable ends and THEN have it aligned. If there is more they WILL FAIL and money spent on the alignment will be down the drain, not to mention tire wear.
Bobby in Colorado

[justcheckn]

Originally Posted by Douglee25

Since when does replacing tie rod ends constitute a front end rebuild?

Before aligning a vehicle, the tech is supposed to complete a full wheel shake down to identify tie rods, ball joints, bearings, etc that may require replacement. The alignment shouldn't begin until that's addressed first. If we took your approach, vehicles would never hold an alignment after it left the shop.

ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!!
You can’t align any vehicle with loose front end parts!!
Bobby in Colorado

[Douglee25]

Originally Posted by justcheckn

This looks to be the rubber injected non serviceable type end. Saw MANY OF THESE FAIL UNDER 20K miles when I was a service manager for Goodyear!
I’m a 45yr Retired ASE Master tech. My recommendation is to replace all rubber injected non serviceable ends on the coach with serviceable ends and THEN have it aligned. If there is more they WILL FAIL and money spent on the alignment will be down the drain, not to mention tire wear.
Bobby in Colorado

You might be correct. I looked at all the other joints and they are in fact greaseable with full boots. These tie rod ends had no boots unless they disintegrated at some point.

[Flyer15015]

If one ball joint is worn, I'll lay you 8 to 5 the other end is too.
By your pictures, you don't have an idler, so next up is the drag link.
All 4 of those joints moved at the same time and have the same milage on them.
How are your track bar bushings?


Mike in Colorado

[David 70]

First you say part of the agreement was that the BUYER had the rig aligned. Weren't you the buyer? If the seller was paying, then I would not assume all things were done correctly. I done front end alignments years ago so I know how they are supposed to be done. If I agreed to pay for an "alignment" then I would not include paying for replacing parts. When I buy these used RVs I just make a money exchange deal and take care of any repairs myself so I know what is being done.

[Douglee25]

Originally Posted by Flyer15015

If one ball joint is worn, I'll lay you 8 to 5 the other end is too.
By your pictures, you don't have an idler, so next up is the drag link.
All 4 of those joints moved at the same time and have the same milage on them.


Mike in Colorado

I checked the drag link and I wasn't able to produce any movement with a pry bar. They look different than what I replaced. Maybe they were already replaced??

[Douglee25]

Originally Posted by David 70

First you say part of the agreement was that the BUYER had the rig aligned. Weren't you the buyer? If the seller was paying, then I would not assume all things were done correctly. I done front end alignments years ago so I know how they are supposed to be done. If I agreed to pay for an "alignment" then I would not include paying for replacing parts. When I buy these used RVs I just make a money exchange deal and take care of any repairs myself so I know what is being done.

My apologies. The SELLER had the rig aligned as part of the agreement (I'll fix the first post).

Of course if hard parts required replacement, it wouldn't have been on him to address, however, it should have at least been brought up.

I don't know why I feel the need to defend myself, but I completed the deal from 1200 miles away. While normally I would take care of the work myself, he took it to a reputable shop that we agreed on for alignment. He provided the print out to me before we completed the deal. Whether he did the leg work or I did it myself, both situations would require us taking the mechanic's word for it unless I did it myself.

[brobox]

Only 16,000 miles?, the problem is probably really Spartans.

[David 70]

Now days the mechanics, er; techs, are different from what we are used to. He may have been told to just check the alignment by either the seller or the shop owner. That is not uncommon when dealing with a seller that far away. They figure they will never see you again anyway. Yes, the parts should have been checked and noted but perhaps the seller didn't want that told. Was this a private seller or a dealer? Going back to what I said before I would not have agreed to have it done unless you wanted to pay for it so I would be off the hook.

[d23haynes57]

Many folks talk about maintenance and wanting records and most seem to think that maintenance is changing fluids and filters. Lifting the wheels off the ground and checking, inspection of suspension components should be done on a periodic basis and also anytime there is a significant event such as hitting a pothole or curb. Same goes for the rear. As part of this, the shop that replaced the tires and did a wheel alignment missed a sales opportunity. Worst case is you have been driving at risk. After 3 years and 16,000 miles if something was to happen, without a recent documented service, inspection history there is a level of negligence. While you have a new awareness of the suspension next step is to do good inspection of the brakes and related components. Don't just rely on pad thickness. Loof signs or heating and corrosion on the rotors. Proper movement of the friction parts and checking for cracking or glazing of the pads or shoes. All hoses, actuators, bearings, seals, etc.