All electric anthem

[brobox]

All I have to go by about asking is....I was told the only satellite Traveler Antenna I could get was for DirectTV. I asked for Dish, and my MH was delivered with Dish after I had changed to DirectTV.

It does happen, at least it did to me. Things have happened when asked for, not always, but they do happen.

[SteveNJanet]

Thanks to everyone of your input.

It seems to boil down to used Anthem vs new Aspire for me. My other thoughts are, will I be sorry I if I didn't have the IFS with the improved ride and slightly better turn radius of the Anthem over the Aspire? My driveway is a tight 90 degree turn. I can back my 33 ft RV in the driveway with no problems but wonder about how much more room I need to make that 90 degree turn in a 44 foot DP.

Also, Newmar touts their Comfort Drive, (I considered their Dutch Star), but I wonder if not having options like comfort drive makes that much difference in the handling on a 44U Entegra coach with a tag axle? For all you guys that have been driving DP's for a while I would love to hear your thoughts on handling on the highways and maneuvering in tight spots.

(I'm sure tired of getting pushed around the road by crosswinds and 18 wheelers in the 33 foot gasser I currently have, meanwhile those DP's with tags sail by me, their drivers looking very relaxed and happy!)

Thanks in advance for your input...

[jestal]

Lots of good info provided but all (I think) by those who live full time or extensively in their coaches. Not being so lucky yet there is one thing to consider with an all electric coach that impacts me and that is the issue of longer term storage.

I am probably the odd'ster here in that we have to store our Anthem in an outside storage lot 30 minutes away with no electrical avail. During periods of non-use I fret over the health of that huge (expensive) battery bank just sitting and discharging. At -22F last winter in Michigan it became routine to stop by the coach, start the generator and top off the battery pack. Yes, the gen always started at -20 but barely sometimes. I also start the cummins (yes it always started even at -22F) and let it run to warm up and charge the chassis batteries. Doing either is against my nature and better judgement but I honestly do not know of alternative for an all electric coach that must sit for long periods with no shore power.

One time the house batteries were down to 11.2 and the gen would not start (even using the booster switch) but the Cummins started and then the gen would start using the booster switch after the Cummins ran for 10 minutes.

We got used to stopping by storage, starting the engine and gen and then letting them run for 2 hours while we went and enjoyed lunch/dinner. The longest I left the coach was 2 weeks and 2 days in the cold and it still started and ran fine.

I also put a separate battery charger on the chassis batteries for when I only wanted to start the gen and not the Cummins.

I have seen and heard of chassis batteries going dead while plugged in even though the coach is supposed to charge them. That is why I always put a battery tender on the chassis batts when on shore power. Plug it into the block heater port in the engine compartment.


On our recent 3 week "full time" excursion we dry camped overnight a number of times in cooler weather. The gen never ran for an overnight stop and was never needed the whole trip. The aquahot in our coach seems to run happily off the inverter for heat or hot water. So does the microwave. Plenty of battery for overnight including fridge, heat, TV and showers. 8 hours off the engine generator the next day replenished them fine.

We went to Lake Entegra for the Ribbon Cutting and the gen ran 4 days straight for AC and the dryer drying out soaked clothing.




edit: My original point was that I would like to add significant solar capability for keeping the house batteries charged during extended storage which wasn't mentioned and doesn't come into play for full timers.


edit: Not sure about your driveway but I bring our 42 Anthem RBQ home occasionally and it takes all of the road and my 12 foot wide driveway to back it in even with the tag unloaded. I personally would not like to loose any turning radius for backing in or pulling out of the driveway.

[brobox]

Al, do you have solar? If not, the 200w panels might be designed just for your type of needs.

[jestal]

No, not yet. I would like to add the solar panels for the reasons I mentioned. I'm still trying to catch up on all the existing fixit items and let my checking account recover. And, I want to finish the seam taping before I cover the roof with solar panels to step on.....

I was actually thinking more like 400 watts if I do it so that it can make a bit of a dent while boondocking if we stop somewhere in the day.

[brobox]

I believe the 2013's are prewired for solar, if so it will make the job much easier. That should solve the dead battery issue for outside storage.

[jestal]

I'll have to do more research on our coach. It is an early build 2013 and I had not even considered that it might be prewired for solar panels. It certainly would make things easier and would definitely help the batteries in storage. Even the 200 watt system would help in storage.

Reminds me I need to check the output of the existing small solar panel for the chassis battery. I have heard directly of at least one coach that had the polarity of the panel reversed which had blown a diode and rendered the panel inop. Since I have experienced low chassis batteries on several occasions I might have that same problem since you reminded me of it. Thanks for the jog!

[brobox]

Al, check the Enternabond roof photos that show the solar panels. The one shows which vent my wires are located. It might help to locate your wires if they are there. They are # 8 black and white wires. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/star...ml#post2545843

Another place to look is behind the electrical panel above the passengers set. The wires are there for the controllers. If the wiring is there, all you need is a couple of panels and a couple of controllers and your in business. A good winter project when it's 20 below and noting to do.

Thanks for reminding me I need to order the Eternabond to finish my roof vents

[jestal]

Chuck, Thanks for the tip on that. I only wish I had a way to get our coach inside on a -20 day (or any day) to work on it. Lots of projects but working on the thing outside is not always practical.

I have only taped the front cap and rear cap roof line so far. The taping is a daunting project for me. Lots of time involved and not as much opportunity to work on it. My caulking is several levels worse than yours was. I have open voids along the joint of the Girard mounts in places where the mount seems to have lifted of shifted slightly upward. For the time being I have used 4 caulking gun tubes of silicone sealant to fill the worst of the sinks until I can get them taped. Lots of cracks and bubbles like you described. I think the previous owner had some leaks as there was already about two tubes worth of silicone on the roof in various spots when I got the coach. some areas around the mounts are so bad I scraped the old stuff away and then taped to get a level enough surface to tape to. Obviously would had been a deal breaker if I had noticed this before we bought but.......water over the dam.,,

[brobox]

Al, just a helpful suggestion, silicone in the wrong sealant to use on the roof. I hope you are using a Dicor type roof sealant. Enternabond won't stick to silicone. This is from Eternabond's web site.
Why Use EternaBond®?

EternaBond® bonds to virtually any surface except silicone. This includes all roofing materials, brick, wood, metal, stucco, rubber, vinyl, canvas, etc. So EternaBond® is the perfect repair product for buildings, RV's, tents, sheds, canoes, tarps, etc.


Thanks to your reminder I ordered a roll of 2 inch last night to finish the roof vents. I am a believer to Eternabond the splits and bubbles ASAP. Even if used as a patch instead caulking. New Eternabond can go over old Eteranbond.

[gjw]

Originally Posted by jestal

No, not yet. I would like to add the solar panels for the reasons I mentioned. I'm still trying to catch up on all the existing fixit items and let my checking account recover. And, I want to finish the seam taping before I cover the roof with solar panels to step on.....

I was actually thinking more like 400 watts if I do it so that it can make a bit of a dent while boondocking if we stop somewhere in the day.

This thread is becoming interesting. I have the 200 watt Entegra setup because our MH came that way. No issues to date, the batteries have seemed to be charged up while in storage - outside in Maryland - I am looking forward to see how things go this coming winter. I used to have to stop by the 2010 Phaeton about once a month to run the gen/engine to keep things topped off.

Anyway, I am wondering with the existing Entegra installed setup for the 200 watt solar what more "could" I add to increase the capacity/efficiency - another 200 watts, 400 watts, etc. I am guessing their existing wiring may not be up to snuff to add much on the existing wiring/controller.

Any input from the group would be much appreciated - thanks...

[brobox]

Greg, I hope you will keep us posted how the factory 200W solar does during outside winter storage. That is something I am sure many of us are interested in. I have never seen anyone post if the solar did a good job during storage. I hope someone can chime in on that.

[MRUSA14]

Originally Posted by gjw

This thread is becoming interesting. I have the 200 watt Entegra setup because our MH came that way. No issues to date, the batteries have seemed to be charged up while in storage - outside in Maryland - I am looking forward to see how things go this coming winter. I used to have to stop by the 2010 Phaeton about once a month to run the gen/engine to keep things topped off.

Anyway, I am wondering with the existing Entegra installed setup for the 200 watt solar what more "could" I add to increase the capacity/efficiency - another 200 watts, 400 watts, etc. I am guessing their existing wiring may not be up to snuff to add much on the existing wiring/controller.

Any input from the group would be much appreciated - thanks...

My understanding is that you can double or triple the capacity using existing wiring if you use a series circuit and the proper controller. You should contact an experienced RV sloar installer to confirm.

For winter storage I would think that snow would be an issue. Aside from that the days are shorter, so less sun and less output. But if there is no snow covering the panels I think it may still be sufficient to keep the batteries up assuming everything in the coach is turned off.

[hawgguy]

Originally Posted by SteveNJanet

but I wonder if not having options like comfort drive makes that much difference in the handling on a 44U Entegra coach with a tag axle?

I believe I can speak to that (having owned a coach with CD). I think the tag is the great equalizer. On a non-tag, the CD is a big plus.