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Old 07-20-2014, 02:23 PM   #1
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Anybody installed battery disconnects- Anthem or a Cornerstone?

A ways back folks were talking about drained coach batteries when storing unplugged. So far I haven't stored mine for long periods without use but I can see a few times coming where I might need to. On my previous RV, 13 Aspire, I installed a battery disconnect like W Bauer posted. That coach had a lot less batteries. Has anybody installed disconnects on the 8 gel mat batteries on an Anthem or a Cornerstone? I'd love to have some details and photos.
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Old 07-20-2014, 02:59 PM   #2
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Dave, have you contacted GUEST customer technical support for advice and diagrams? Are your battery banks separated into two systems; starting and house?
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:56 PM   #3
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Might try that. I hooked a Guest disconnect up in my ex-Aspire but this Anthem has a lot more batteries. I'm wondering about over amping a single switch.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:15 PM   #4
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PERKO Battery Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by hogdriver View Post
A ways back folks were talking about drained coach batteries when storing unplugged. So far I haven't stored mine for long periods without use but I can see a few times coming where I might need to. On my previous RV, 13 Aspire, I installed a battery disconnect like W Bauer posted. That coach had a lot less batteries. Has anybody installed disconnects on the 8 gel mat batteries on an Anthem or a Cornerstone? I'd love to have some details and photos.
Similar PERKO Battery switches are used on boats that have 1, 2, Both, OFF & LOCK Battery Switches & Cables | Switches | Electrical Distribution | Marine Electrical | West Marine
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:59 PM   #5
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I haven't done it on an Anthem, but looking at the wiring diagram provided by Entegra it should be fairly simple to do with two switches. One for the top shelf of batteries and one for the bottom. Using two switches should simplify the installation and minimize how many new cables you need to make.

There are two approaches. You can add cutoff switches for just the inverters or for the entire battery. In either case you should only switch the positive conductors.

Switching just the inverters is easier and should only require two new cables. The inverters are by far the highest vampire drain (even when OFF) and will take your batteries down to about 50% in 1 month from a full charge. With the switches in place and the inverters truly off, your only drain will be the See-Level, Fire/Smoke/CO/Propane sensors and some other low level stuff, but you can pull the fuses for most of those. Another benefit of switching just the inverters is the current for high load items like the generator starter and leveling jacks will NOT pass thru the new switch.

Switching the entire battery will shut everything down and maybe some stuff you don't want like radio settings (?? don't know, those items may be fed by the start batteries ??). The wiring gets more complex too. For example, you will need to move the inverter cables from the batteries to the off side of the switch lugs - that can present some physical challenges due to the lug and wire size.

I wouldn't worry too much about overloading these switches. I typically used the BlueSea products in my marine work in applications where engine start current was passing thru them. Other brands are fine too, just check the ratings. Even the smallest BlueSea m-series switch has a 1500A 10 second rating, a 500A 5 min rating and a 300A continuous rating. You are not cranking the engine thru it and are unlikely to ever see continuous current of that magnitude. For a little extra margin of safety go with a switch like the BlueSea e-series (350A continuous, 2000A 10 sec). You do not need a switch with an Alternator field disconnect. The Blue Sea 6005 or 9003e for example.

See the attached diagram. To add the cutoff switch to the inverters find the red cable on each shelf of batteries that go to the inverters - those cables will go to the "Magnum" labeled Class T fuses in the back of your battery bay. Find a place to mount the switches where those cables will reach and connect to the appropriate switch lugs. New cables will be needed to go from the switch back to the battery POS terminals. Use at least the same size cable, if you can't find the 3/0 go up a size to 4/0. Use closed end tin plated lugs and seal the crimps with adhesive lined heat shrink. I think all lug holes should be 3/8". If you don't have a heavy duty lug crimper these guys are very reasonable for custom assemblies and you will get high quality tin plated marine cable and lugs.

Rob

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Old 07-22-2014, 02:28 PM   #6
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Great post.

Who did you have to bribe to get that schematic. Do you have others?
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:40 PM   #7
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Who did you have to bribe to get that schematic. Do you have others?
Hey Marc, Ted passed it out in the Spartan training class, you should have a copy. Otherwise I usually ask nicely and if they have one they email a copy. It also think it and several others are online in the Manuals section of the Entegra owners site.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:59 PM   #8
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Not to quibble but the manual in my old Aspire said if parking the RV for an "extended" period (not defined) to disconnect the Ground Side only. On my previous Aspire I installed the cutoff on the ground side and it worked fine although in my old Monaco it was switched on the positive side.
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Not to quibble but the manual in my old Aspire said if parking the RV for an "extended" period (not defined) to disconnect the Ground Side only. On my previous Aspire I installed the cutoff on the ground side and it worked fine although in my old Monaco it was switched on the positive side.
Dave, thanks for pointing that out, was not aware of that statement from Entegra. My experience is primarily with marine systems and the ABYC specifically requires DC battery and branch circuit switches to be placed in the positive conductor. In that environment switching the ground (with certain exceptions) would generally be considered bad practice, so I suppose it is just unnatural for me to do it that way.

That highlights there is still a lot for me to learn regarding RV systems. I will make it a point to research this further as I would like to understand the thinking behind it.

I can see how it would simplify the wiring, but at this point I am missing how that is a "best" practice and want to understand the full ramifications of that approach.

BTW, the factory installed cutoff switch for the start battery circuit (Spartan) is in the positive conductors. Thanks for the heads up!

Rob
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:11 PM   #10
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The reason for switching off the ground in yachts may be due to the potential for electrolysis, which would not be an issue in RV's.
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:02 PM   #11
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Sealand makes a 600 amp switch. Might be enough for a large battery system.
Check with Amazon or defender marine ( Ct)
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