Anyone have issues with the switch by door going black

[philnail]

The switch by the entry door [salesman switch] keeps going black. We loose all power to lights antenna and ac heat quits

We turn the switch back on by the door and all power comes back on. 5 minutes later everything goes out and the switch is black

All ac power is on inverters show charged, no breakers are blown

Zone 1 and 3 on with heat and also stops when switch goes black

2013 classic Anthem RBQ

Any ideas

[philnail]

Update: Switch by entry door completely dead. Any ideas

[philnail]

All 12 volt power dead not sure here to look

[8.3Oilbuner]

Good evening Philnail. Sorry, don't have your coach but it does sound like either your salesmen switch at the door has failed or something has happened to the continuous heavy duty relay/solenoid that powers the house side of the coach for lights, A/C etc. The location of that solenoid/relay is sometimes in the house electrical section of your owners manual. It sounds like the relay/solenoid is dropping out or there is an actual problem with the switch itself. You might have some diagrams on electrical bay doors to identify locations of that relay/solenoid. You can jump across the relay/solenoid to see if you get your house systems back online. You just need to find it. Hope someone with your year of model of coach chimes in here to help. My info might get you started. On newer coaches like yours that relay/solenoid looks like the old Ford starter solenoid although you could have several of them for different electrical functions. So before jumping across, make sure you have the right one. Good luck!

[brobox]

Easy enough to check the salesman switch by pulling the switch and checking the polls with a continuity tester. You can also test if you have 12v coming to the switch, if not look for the solenoid Oilburner suggested. Both can be jumped temporary until a part can be found. I carry alligator clips and wire just for problems like that.

[hogdriver]

Does your RV also have the Master Power switch on the console next to the driver? Mine does. Both switches operate the same circuit. How does it behave? If both are dead I’d suspect the relay or a connection.

[philnail]

Thanks oilburner and brobix . Issue was a bad battery disconnect solenoid. On my classic it was located behind a Velcro panel on the passenger side last compartment. I jumped it and we have power now. Next to get it replaced .

[philnail]

Typo on brobox

[YC1]

This is a daily problem almost. There are literally hundreds of posts on it.

The switch controls a relay/solenoid that fails.

I don't know where yours is located but to give you some idea of what to look for check this link out. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/disc...ff-214530.html
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/disc...ff-214530.html

In the little Google Seach box up at the top right greened out area put the words salesman switch and hit the search button. It will take you to many pages of great information.

[brobox]

Originally Posted by philnail

Thanks oilburner and brobix . Issue was a bad battery disconnect solenoid. On my classic it was located behind a Velcro panel on the passenger side last compartment. I jumped it and we have power now. Next to get it replaced .

I had one go out on the TS, get the number off of it and see if NAPA has it. They did for the one on the TS.

[philnail]

That’s a great idea.

[philnail]

Went to Napa and got a replacement disconnect. Hooked it up same issue. No power unless I hook up a jumper

There are 2 small wires connected to the disconnect I am thinking one of those wires energizes the disconnect

Any idea where they run to

[brobox]

This is just a guess....on the passenger side above the starting batteries is a round can type box. That holds the Spartan Chassis fuses, check to see if one of them is blown. If one side has power going to it, the switch should activate the solenoid, so I doubt it's a fuse or there would be no power. After replacing the solenoid, did you get a light on the switch? It might be the switch that is bad. Is there 12v going to the switch?

[YC1]

Picture of the old and new solenoid would help.

Extremely easy to diagnose.

Solenoid needs 12 volts on one small terminal and ground on the other.