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Mwoodofd · 11-01-2015, 05:54 AM

My LP burner will not light. (Electric working fine) I Called AH on Friday to get some tips on things to check over the weekend.

My fan was not running on the burner assembly, and I hooked it to a 12v source, and it works. I found the 30 Amp fuse in the AH case was blown. (30 Amp fuse seem high) The burner lit while I had the fan running, so I believe it is leading to the Buck Booster Control Switch. When I installed a new 30 amp fuse, something around the Buck Booster Control plug smoked. I figured that was not a good sign, but it did not blow the fuse. (probably fried the Booster)

When I connect the fan to a 12V source, the burner will light, but I will not leave it hooked up this way. May have fried the Buck Booster Control switch. Anyone have any experience with this?

Keith W · 11-01-2015, 07:44 AM

You might already have this but here is some trouble shoot info for both boosters.

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Keith

Moscow, TN
2013 Aspire DEQ IFS
Buick Enclave

waterboy10 · 11-01-2015, 07:47 AM

Ours did the same thing after almost three years of ownership. You will need replace the controllers on the right lower side of the AH. Wh enough I called CS they had me replace the 30amp fuse and the fuse blew right away. Since we were trading the coach I told the tech about it and they were going to address it.

coachmanrvr · 11-01-2015, 12:47 PM

Ours has given us little problems other than needing air adjustment on the blower. Change of seasons get it cranky and needs a small adjustment to start the burner.

Good luck, the manual for these things are quite good.

voltdoc · 11-01-2015, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waterboy10

Ours did the same thing after almost three years of ownership. You will need replace the controllers on the right lower side of the AH. Wh enough I called CS they had me replace the 30amp fuse and the fuse blew right away. Since we were trading the coach I told the tech about it and they were going to address it.

Yeah, that's probably it, one of the two buck/boost (voltage regulators) modules has probably fried. I had the same problem about a year ago. Mine kept popping the 20A fuse inside the AH cabinet. In my case the bad module was obvious, it looked and smelled of burnt electronics. Easy to swap out.

The info Keith posted walks you thru the troubleshooting process. You can get the entire service manual on the AH site.

The buck/boost modules keep the voltage supplied to the various components at a constant and precise 12 volts, it will 'boost' it if it's less than 12.0 and 'buck' it back down if its more.

Mwoodofd · 11-01-2015, 04:19 PM

I did download the service manual, and followed the troubleshooting section trying to narrow down the possible issues, and could not understand some of the volt meter tests and where to place the leads of the meter, but the tests I could complete point to the booster. I wrote down all the readings and steps, and will call AH tomorrow morning.

Voltdoc, did you go to a 25 or 30 amp fuse and everything work once the boosters were replaced? Mine had a 30 amp in it, and when I replaced it, that is when the bcuk booster control smoked, and had that electronic burn smell. Sounds like the same issue.

voltdoc · 11-03-2015, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mwoodofd

I did download the service manual, and followed the troubleshooting section trying to narrow down the possible issues, and could not understand some of the volt meter tests and where to place the leads of the meter, but the tests I could complete point to the booster. I wrote down all the readings and steps, and will call AH tomorrow morning.

Voltdoc, did you go to a 25 or 30 amp fuse and everything work once the boosters were replaced? Mine had a 30 amp in it, and when I replaced it, that is when the bcuk booster control smoked, and had that electronic burn smell. Sounds like the same issue.

Mark, I did not change any fuse ratings. As I recall the master fuse inside the AH cabinet was 20A and the feed from the compartment in front of the driver side front tire was a 30A. Best to check with AH and use what they recommend. My guess is the module shorted, popped the fuse, then when you replaced the fuse it continued to fry. You didn't hurt anything and the ratng of the fuse didn't really matter since the module was already bad. Fuse ratings are usually designed to protect the wiring.

Good luck!

Mwoodofd · 11-03-2015, 07:51 PM

Rob,

Thank you - I did get the info from Aqua Hot, and after a few trouble shooting tips on the phone with them, were did determine it is the fan control Buck Booster card, and I have on on the way to arrive on Thursday - should fix the unit. I will report back once installed.

Mwoodofd · 11-05-2015, 05:55 PM

I received the buck booster control today from Aqua Hot. Replaced the defective booster in about 5 minutes, and all is well. The unit is functioning normal, and we are back in the hot water, and may need the heat in a week. (we are staying in the MH for about 2 months while we build a house moving around the DFW area, out by Texas Motor Speedway now, and the races are in town

)

I want to say that I am very happy working with Aqua Hot Technical support trouble shooting the problem to getting the part in 2 days. Many thanks to Jim for helping me through this.