Aqua-Hot PH

[sledwest]

How many are checking PH levels in their century boiler fluid? I can’t find much info on Aqua-Hot or century fluids web sites

[ByeTheWay]

Professional help is available for the DIYer online at: Roger Berke: RV Hydronic Heater Repair: RV Hydronic Heater Repair - Home

Roger gives advice and pictures for free, and sells parts.
Hydro Hot is the older versions of Aqua Hot

[DebbieMH]

Originally Posted by sledwest

How many are checking PH levels in their century boiler fluid? I can’t find much info on Aqua-Hot or century fluids web sites

Why?

[Butte64]

I have the refractometer to check percentage of propylene glycol but not aware of any PH test.

[sledwest]

My new gallon says to just wondering.

[Gary.Jones]

Well, I sure never worried about it.... refractometer yes, pH, no. Brobox has been around the block a couple of times on transfer issues and maybe we can get Chuck to chime into this discussion. However, if you only have Century transfer fluid in the system, and you do not dilute it or change it, then not sure why pH should be an issue.... but maybe there is a reaction somewhere in the process that pH changes. A closed system I would think would maintain, but I dont really know.... Anyone have a good answer for the man?

Gary

[brobox]

Here is my opinion. It is a CYI for Century Fluid that when the fluid turns to sludge used in an Aqua Hot they can blame the owner for not checking the PH. It is also my opinion it comes with bad water (ph) or why would it to turn to sludge? How does one adjust bad ph? JME

Lots of reading here with photos and chemical analysis, but no answers.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/aqua...ge-270914.html

[Gary.Jones]

Probably the same way you adjust pH in your S&B pool.....

Gary

[Flanz]

Yes, IMO, you should check your system regularly for both the PH level as well as the propylene glycol percentage to make sure that they are within the specified ranges.

The range for the propylene glycol is 35% to 50%. When I flushed my system and added the pink Camco, I set my PG level to ~40%. This gave my system some head room for water evaporation until I got around to checking and adjusting it.

The PH range is between 7.5 and 9.3. The PH level I measured was 7.6. I used some old test strips from my days of maintaining my saltwater fish tank. Not the best way, but it will do until my PH meter comes in. If your PH level is not keep within this range, then you’ll risk the chance of corrosion within the system.

These are not just an Aquahot requirement, although they advocate for it, it’s a requirement mentioned by the fluid manufacturer if using their fluid.

Based on my research, which everyone should do for themselves, I found some surprising answers. On thing most people believe is that our heating systems are closed looped. They are not. This is becaus IF you are checking your PG% you’ll eventually add water for make up due to evaporation. Adding to the system negates it from being a closed looped system. Hopefully you’ll use nothing but distilled water and then measure the make up of your solution in your system.

Another thing I found was that glycol is a sugar-alcohol type chemical. It is a potential food for bacteria and can turn acidic if your inhibitors run out by ongoing leaks and fresh water replenishment. You have to monitor your systems water chemistry and pH levels. If not, then corrosion will begin within your system. This is NOT a conspiracy theory as others have suggested. This is a fact and the nature of the beast of all heating systems, as well as solar, that use propylene glycol within them.

The real question is, is this all real and how often should all this testing be done? I don’t know, since this is my first Aquahot heating system. Time will tell as I maintain my heating system. One other thing I did learn is that I’m glad I checked my Aquahot. Prior to draining, flushing, and filling - my expansion tank had a lot of what I’ll call mud in it. My system had the original Century boiler fluid in it. After flushing and filling, with the Camco pink, I’ve seen no change in color. This heating season will tell if this comes back or not.

Good luck........

[sledwest]

Thanks for all the input! I am a certified pool operator (CPO)and have all the equipment to check and adjust ph and more . I think a call to century on Monday will be next step and may poor a cup in a glass and play with adding and subtracting ph levels before I feel comfortable introducing it into my Aqua-Hot system . Again thanks and I will follow up in a few days.

[brobox]

Originally Posted by Gary.Jones

Probably the same way you adjust pH in your S&B pool.....

Gary

Acid and baking soda in AH fluid?
I am serious, outside of changing the fluid, how do you adjust the ph? Century would not even admit their fluid turns bad not alone how to adjust it. JME

[sledwest]

I do agree!! Mixing chemicals will be an outside job with a gas mask. It will be on a very small scale but that isn’t the point! However there isn’t anything in a pool system that isn’t in my Aqua-Hot system ( rubber , plastic , aluminum , Ect. ) . Maybe a call to a floor heating installer would be beneficial? Thanks for the ideas and suggestions

[Flanz]

There are several products on the market that will either lower or increase the pH level of your boiler solution. Unfortunately, the ones that I’ve come across are in quantities to large for my use....As an example ~

https://www.rhomarwater.com/Hydronic...-Hydronic.html

Personally, I’d just change the fluid to fix a pH problem then to add anything to it.

[brobox]

Originally Posted by Flanz

Personally, I’d just change the fluid to fix a pH problem then to add anything to it.

X2 and it will be to Camco One horrible experience with Century was enough for me.
The new MH fluid is already showing signs of a color change. I have a feeling it won't be long before I will be adjusting the pH.