Cable or electric 1 1/2" Valterra macerator valve?

[bevandtomH]

For EC DP owners, search You Tube. There is at least electric gate valve video as I recall. I also remember a few owners who made this conversion a few years ago. Maybe they will be along to yield details.

[JohnKoz]

So, after looking for electric valves and add-ons, I ultimately decided to simply add a mechanical cable. Unfortunately, I couldn't find just an add-on cable and had to buy the complete assembly with valve.
Intending to just swap the handle with the cable puller, I quickly realized I'd have to mangle the handle to get it off and decided to replace the valve, which was much easier than I expected. (there were hose clamps on either side)
Except I reengineered the discharge pipes at the same time, adding Camlocks to the drain hose. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/mac...ml#post6874453
The only tip was that I had to slightly rotate the valve because there was not enough room above the valve for the cable.
But it all fits and works great.
(sorry, I have no idea how the site decides to show photos portrait or landscape)

[rlwhite]

Originally Posted by JohnKoz

[2024 Reatta XL] My macerator output has a wonderfully convenient 1 1/2" Valterra valve, that's just a joy to open/close when I'm dumping.

As much as I like getting on my hands and knees with my face pressed against the water bay while my arm is scraping all the jagged surfaces on the path to the manual valve, I can't help but wonder if anyone has spent the time to add a cable to this valve (or make it electric).

In doing some searching I can't find an add-on cable, which means I'll have to replace the valve if I want other actuation alternatives. Before I do that I just wanted to check with those more experienced.

Has anyone addressed this?

-John

Barker Manufacturing makes an electric motor, for the 1 1/2 valve, that attaches to the valve, without having to remove it. I've replace the two 3" valves for the black and grey tank and got rid of the the pull cables.
https://www.barkermfg.com/auto-drains.html

[Douglee25]

Originally Posted by rlwhite

Barker Manufacturing makes an electric motor, for the 1 1/2 valve, that attaches to the valve, without having to remove it. I've replace the two 3" valves for the black and grey tank and got rid of the the pull cables.
https://www.barkermfg.com/auto-drains.html

That would be nice to put up in the bathroom so you don't even have to leave the coach to empty the tanks.

[rlwhite]

Originally Posted by Douglee25

That would be nice to put up in the bathroom so you don't even have to leave the coach to empty the tanks.

Doug,
I did install a switch in the half bath above the G6 panel and in the wet bay ( i have an Aspire 44B). Ran 2 sets of 4-wire harness from the aqua-hot bay to under the sink cabinet in the half bathroom (Pic 1). There was a notch in the outside wall where I ran a fish tape up behind the G6 panel and pulled the wires up into that space. (Pic 2 & 3) Cut out an opening for 2 switches and 2 light indicators (light when valve was opened). (Pic 4)

Used a Shelly Uni Plus relay and OONO Forward/Reverse Relay Module (purchased on Amazon). (Pic 5 & 6) With these I could wire two switches to operate the valves from inside or at the wet bay. (Pic 7 & 8). The switches are momentary so you have to hold them for 3 seconds to fully open the valve. With the Shelly, I can use there phone app or setup Alexa to open and close the valves. With the Shelly, I can program how many seconds to active the valve, so in this case I have it set to 4 seconds then it turns power off.

Going to try and create a routine on Alexa when the tank shows a certain percentage, to open the valve then close it after so many minutes. Right now I can tell Alexa to "Alexa, turn on Open Grey Tank" and "Alexa, turn on Close Grey Tank" Also looking at installing an electric valve on the blank tank flush that would turn on while dumping the black tank. (Lots of testing to do). Also, I'm installing a key switch to deactivate the circuit for the dump valves so nothing can accidentally open until drain lines are connected.
Wiring diag attached.

With Rob's help (VoltDoc here on IRV2) I finally got the wiring correct to do this.

[Douglee25]

Originally Posted by rlwhite

Doug,
I did install a switch in the half bath above the G6 panel and in the wet bay ( i have an Aspire 44B). Ran 2 sets of 4-wire harness from the aqua-hot bay to under the sink cabinet in the half bathroom (Pic 1). There was a notch in the outside wall where I ran a fish tape up behind the G6 panel and pulled the wires up into that space. (Pic 2 & 3) Cut out an opening for 2 switches and 2 light indicators (light when valve was opened). (Pic 4)

Used a Shelly Uni Plus relay and OONO Forward/Reverse Relay Module (purchased on Amazon). (Pic 5 & 6) With these I could wire two switches to operate the valves from inside or at the wet bay. (Pic 7 & 8). The switches are momentary so you have to hold them for 3 seconds to fully open the valve. With the Shelly, I can use there phone app or setup Alexa to open and close the valves. With the Shelly, I can program how many seconds to active the valve, so in this case I have it set to 4 seconds then it turns power off.

Going to try and create a routine on Alexa when the tank shows a certain percentage, to open the valve then close it after so many minutes. Right now I can tell Alexa to "Alexa, turn on Open Grey Tank" and "Alexa, turn on Close Grey Tank" Also looking at installing an electric valve on the blank tank flush that would turn on while dumping the black tank. (Lots of testing to do). Also, I'm installing a key switch to deactivate the circuit for the dump valves so nothing can accidentally open until drain lines are connected.
Wiring diag attached.

With Rob's help (VoltDoc here on IRV2) I finally got the wiring correct to do this.

Now we're talking!

I like the cut of your jib! I may have to do this now!