Challenges with a trailer

[darjacob]

We decided to stop flat towing and start trailering our car. There are a number of reasons for our decision, and I'll list a few;

1) We trade cars every few years and I found myself only looking at cars that could be flat towed. Usually, we would settle for something we really didn't like that much. I know Jeeps are a favorite vehicle for towing, but we don't like them.
2) If we found a car to tow, it was the same old thing every time. Buy a baseplate, have it installed, get the taillights wired, set up some sort of braking system, update the tow bar every couple of years, etc.
3) When you flat tow, you're putting as many miles on the car as you are the RV.

That's why we decided to start trailering. As a bonus, there is plenty of room in the trailer to carry any extra stuff we might want to bring along for extended trips. Sometimes we find unique things that we'd like to buy while traveling but don't have room to carry it/them.

I began looking for the "right" trailer to pull. I looked at a lot and quickly realized that none of them fit my needs. First off, unless you're Twiggy (I'm dating myself here) you can't get out of the car once you load it. One dealer told me that I could mount a winch in the trailer and winch the car in. Another told me to open the hatch and crawl over the seats to get in and out. Another option that I thought was great was a driver's side escape door. The problem with those doors is that they're made for classic or muscle cars. Cars that don't have a frame around the window. The doors, all of them I looked at were too small to allow my BMW SUV door to open.

So I bought a trailer and backed it up to my little shop. I measured the floor to the bottom of my car door, then measured the floor to the top of the door and got out my 4 1/2 grinder and went to work. I can drive the car in and open the door and step out. Makes strapping down the tires easy too.

Here is a couple of photos of the job.



I removed the plywood



Cut the ribs out and then welded a rib across the top



Went to work cutting the side out



Lastly, I replaced the fender flare and added a folding step to the side to aid in getting out.

I talked to the manufacturer of the trailer when I purchased it. I asked if making a hole the size I needed would compromise the integrity of the structure. The engineer told me that it would have on effect on the carrying capacity. He said the side ribs are there just to hold up the roof. He said the trailer frame, springs, and tires carry all the weight.

So far we haven't had any issues finding RV resorts that can handle the full length of the RV and trailer. I'll give an update after we've used it for a while.

Everyone has their own preference for bringing their car along and I'm not promoting the use of a trailer. I just wanted to share the things I ran into after making our decision.

[carybosse]

Nice. Others may be interested in the specs of the trailer you chose to modify.

[BayRunner]

Originally Posted by darjacob

We decided to stop flat towing and start trailering our car. There are a number of reasons for our decision, and I'll list a few;

1) We trade cars every few years and I found myself only looking at cars that could be flat towed. Usually, we would settle for something we really didn't like that much. I know Jeeps are a favorite vehicle for towing, but we don't like them.
2) If we found a car to tow, it was the same old thing every time. Buy a baseplate, have it installed, get the taillights wired, set up some sort of braking system, update the tow bar every couple of years, etc.
3) When you flat tow, you're putting as many miles on the car as you are the RV.

That's why we decided to start trailering. As a bonus, there is plenty of room in the trailer to carry any extra stuff we might want to bring along for extended trips. Sometimes we find unique things that we'd like to buy while traveling but don't have room to carry it/them.

I began looking for the "right" trailer to pull. I looked at a lot and quickly realized that none of them fit my needs. First off, unless you're Twiggy (I'm dating myself here) you can't get out of the car once you load it. One dealer told me that I could mount a winch in the trailer and winch the car in. Another told me to open the hatch and crawl over the seats to get in and out. Another option that I thought was great was a driver's side escape door. The problem with those doors is that they're made for classic or muscle cars. Cars that don't have a frame around the window. The doors, all of them I looked at were too small to allow my BMW SUV door to open.

So I bought a trailer and backed it up to my little shop. I measured the floor to the bottom of my car door, then measured the floor to the top of the door and got out my 4 1/2 grinder and went to work. I can drive the car in and open the door and step out. Makes strapping down the tires easy too.

Here is a couple of photos of the job.

Attachment 381839

I removed the plywood

Attachment 381840

Cut the ribs out and then welded a rib across the top

Attachment 381844

Went to work cutting the side out

Attachment 381841

Lastly, I replaced the fender flare and added a folding step to the side to aid in getting out.

I talked to the manufacturer of the trailer when I purchased it. I asked if making a hole the size I needed would compromise the integrity of the structure. The engineer told me that it would have on effect on the carrying capacity. He said the side ribs are there just to hold up the roof. He said the trailer frame, springs, and tires carry all the weight.

So far we haven't had any issues finding RV resorts that can handle the full length of the RV and trailer. I'll give an update after we've used it for a while.

Everyone has their own preference for bringing their car along and I'm not promoting the use of a trailer. I just wanted to share the things I ran into after making our decision.

Nice work on the mod. This interest me for I’m in a similar situation. We currently do not have a Toad and are evaluating out options. The wife loves her Toyota Highlander Hybrid but it can’t be flat towed. So we are debating getting yet another flat towable vehicle or a trailer for one of our existing. The concern about a trailer is that limits us to CG that have pull through spaces long enough for coach and trailer. Something for us to consider.

[carybosse]

Maybe slightly off-topic, but for those of you who use a trailer to tow your vehicle, do you factor in to the equation having a vehicle that you tow in/on the trailer or dolly that can move the trailer around. For instance. if you are using a tow dolly, as opposed to a trailer, it is probably pretty easy to put a hitch on most vehicles that would be capable of jockeying the tow dolly around. Now, if you are doing something like shown by the OP in this project, your Mazda Miata probably isn't going to be able to jockey the trailer around.

Seems to me, if the vehicle hauled in the trailer could also haul the trailer, even if it is just an empty trailer and speeds are limited to park roads and parking lots, it would be helpful to dealing with situations that might arise.

It may be that the numbers just plain cannot work out: A trailer big enough to haul any vehicle just exceeds the capacity of the vehicle being hauled.

[brobox]

Nice mod without a doubt. As more and more cars become less towable this makes a great option.

[Gary.Jones]

Well, I solved the problem by deciding that I would have one car that was essentially for driving when we are at home (its "my" truck) and another car which is my wife's car to drive back and forth to the markets or to physician offices, but can be flat towed behind the coach, and forgot about her car being "new" every couple of years. So, we bought a new 2013 Honda CR-V in 2013 which was the next to last year that you could flat tow the CR-V and installed the equipment to flat tow the Honda successfully. We have flat towed the Honda for about 100,000 miles behind our Entegras .... of course engine off, tranny in neutral, plus Dee's need for a vehicle for her to get around in (she "likes" smaller vehicles and would not be happy in anything any larger than the CR-V when she is piloting the car). The car is 9 years old at this point and has been flat towed for about 100,000 miles.

The odometer shows that the car has ~ 70,000 miles on the odometer under its own power, which of course we use for sight-seeing when we are traveling in the Cornerstone and for her travel needs when we are at home. Her own mileage over almost 10 years probably boils down to 30,000 miles as she drives for her own needs and use. So, in my opinion, the Honda CR-V is still virtually new (~70,000 miles under power) and in the ~10 years that we have owned it, it has never been in the shop for anything except a couple of very small warranty items within the first year we owned the car handled under warranty which were "factory problems".

Now, neither one of us need to be driving a car that is constantly new. What matters to us is a car's reliability. We could have upgraded the car any time we wanted over that 10 years, but we have not had a need and Dee is happy with the car that she has. What she would not tolerate is a car that gives her problems or in undependable...... The CR-V with ~ 70,000 miles under power fills that need. So, no screwing around with a trailer, no need to find RV parks that can handle my overall length, a perfectly reliable car that can be disconnected from my towbar and coach in three or four minutes..... I can't imagine why I would want something else.

Just different ways of solving the same problem.... If and when the Honda becomes a problem, then a change will be made to something that satisfies all the various needs. But a huge trailer behind the Cornerstone is not likely ever going to be considered the right solution. I've considered that solution probably 50 times and discarded it each time.

Gary

[BayRunner]

Originally Posted by Gary.Jones

Well, I solved the problem by deciding that I would have one car that was essentially for driving when we are at home (its "my" truck) and another car which is my wife's car to drive back and forth to the markets or to physician offices, but can be flat towed behind the coach, and forgot about her car being "new" every couple of years. So, we bought a new 2013 Honda CR-V in 2013 which was the next to last year that you could flat tow the CR-V and installed the equipment to flat tow the Honda successfully. We have flat towed the Honda for about 100,000 miles behind our Entegras .... of course engine off, tranny in neutral, plus Dee's need for a vehicle for her to get around in (she "likes" smaller vehicles and would not be happy in anything any larger than the CR-V when she is piloting the car). The car is 9 years old at this point and has been flat towed for about 100,000 miles.

The odometer shows that the car has ~ 70,000 miles on the odometer under its own power, which of course we use for sight-seeing when we are traveling in the Cornerstone and for her travel needs when we are at home. Her own mileage over almost 10 years probably boils down to 30,000 miles as she drives for her own needs and use. So, in my opinion, the Honda CR-V is still virtually new (~70,000 miles under power) and in the ~10 years that we have owned it, it has never been in the shop for anything except a couple of very small warranty items within the first year we owned the car handled under warranty which were "factory problems".

Now, neither one of us need to be driving a car that is constantly new. What matters to us is a car's reliability. We could have upgraded the car any time we wanted over that 10 years, but we have not had a need and Dee is happy with the car that she has. What she would not tolerate is a car that gives her problems or in undependable...... The CR-V with ~ 70,000 miles under power fills that need. So, no screwing around with a trailer, no need to find RV parks that can handle my overall length, a perfectly reliable car that can be disconnected from my towbar and coach in three or four minutes..... I can't imagine why I would want something else.

Just different ways of solving the same problem.... If and when the Honda becomes a problem, then a change will be made to something that satisfies all the various needs. But a huge trailer behind the Cornerstone is not likely ever going to be considered the right solution. I've considered that solution probably 50 times and discarded it each time.

Gary

Your point is valid. We have owned a CRV (not towing) and I’ve also had a Ridgeline that went 279k miles. However, even though they are good, the idea of getting a 10 year old car for cross country travel just does not sit well with me. Statistically speaking, a newer “reliable” vehicle is much more appealing. The odds of a 10+ year old vehicle needing service is significantly higher and just don’t want the potential to have to deal with it while on the road.

[darjacob]

Originally Posted by Gary.Jones

The odometer shows that the car has ~ 70,000 miles on the odometer under its own power, which of course we use for sight-seeing when we are traveling in the Cornerstone and for her travel needs when we are at home. Her own mileage over almost 10 years probably boils down to 30,000 miles as she drives for her own needs and use. So, in my opinion, the Honda CR-V is still virtually new (~70,000 miles under power) and in the ~10 years that we have owned it, it has never been in the shop for anything except a couple of very small warranty items within the first year we owned the car handled under warranty which were "factory problems".

Gary

Your analysis is not entirely true. The car may show 70K miles but in reality, it has that plus all the miles behind your RV. Motors and transmissions usually outlast the car. You have to consider all the other suspension components that get wear and tear while being towed behind your RV. Could you in good conscience sell that car to someone and tell them it's only got 70k miles on it? I couldn't.

[darjacob]

Originally Posted by carybosse

Nice. Others may be interested in the specs of the trailer you chose to modify.

I don't think the make is very important, they all are basically the same. But I bought a 8.5W 20'L and 10,000# capacity.

[Flyer15015]

OP,
Nice job.
I did the same thing a couple of years ago for our classic car (1940 Buick LTD).
I had a 24' "V" nosed trailer, so I put the door a bit forward compared to yours.
I also put in a winch and guide rails 2 x 2" so I can load the car remotely.
You would be surprised what you can do with a 4' grinder and a MIG.

I also strengthened my hitch with 2 x 2 x 1/4" angle and grd 8 bolts to accommodate pulling an 8K# load.

Mike in Colorado

[Rob_M]

Originally Posted by carybosse

Maybe slightly off-topic, but for those of you who use a trailer to tow your vehicle, do you factor in to the equation having a vehicle that you tow in/on the trailer or dolly that can move the trailer around. For instance. if you are using a tow dolly, as opposed to a trailer, it is probably pretty easy to put a hitch on most vehicles that would be capable of jockeying the tow dolly around. Now, if you are doing something like shown by the OP in this project, your Mazda Miata probably isn't going to be able to jockey the trailer around.



Seems to me, if the vehicle hauled in the trailer could also haul the trailer, even if it is just an empty trailer and speeds are limited to park roads and parking lots, it would be helpful to dealing with situations that might arise.



It may be that the numbers just plain cannot work out: A trailer big enough to haul any vehicle just exceeds the capacity of the vehicle being hauled.

I have both a golf cart trailer that I can move with the golf cart, and side-by-side trailer that I can move with the side by side. Neither is enclosed which would probably make them too heavy to move with the vehicle they carry.
A small car won’t be able to move an enclosed trailer around, but a small SUV probably can, depending on tongue weight.

[MemByTheMile]

Nice job on the mod! Seems to be a common challenge with enclosed trailers.

Our solution was a v nose hybrid trailer:


Fully enclosed would be nice.

[carybosse]

Originally Posted by Rob_M

I have both a golf cart trailer that I can move with the golf cart, and side-by-side trailer that I can move with the side by side. Neither is enclosed which would probably make them too heavy to move with the vehicle they carry.
A small car won’t be able to move an enclosed trailer around, but a small SUV probably can, depending on tongue weight.

I kind of wonder if a trailer large enough to haul the vehicle will be stout enough to tow the trailer. I can see that being a major issue in some cases. However, it also seems like it might make dealing with the trailer at some campgrounds easier.

I don't know the weight differences, but could see where an enclosed trailer might be too heavy to work my idea, but the open trailer would be a better option in that case.

[darjacob]

Originally Posted by Flyer15015

OP,
Nice job.
I did the same thing a couple of years ago for our classic car (1940 Buick LTD).
I had a 24' "V" nosed trailer, so I put the door a bit forward compared to yours.

Mike in Colorado

I really like your door. My trailer is a 20' so I had to put the door a little further back. It still loads right though.