Chassis Lube?

[SAS30]

Originally Posted by EVsCoach

Thanks, I'll consider after I do it one time the old fashioned way--hand pump! Probably wear out my arm.



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These things take a lot of grease. A cordless or air tool makes the job a lot easier. I believe I used almost 2 full tubes when lubing my Anthem for the first. I have a Milwaukee. Got on sale at Northern tool online for $179. Free shipping.

[Bigd9]

I prefer air tools, so I Santa brought me a Lincoln 1162 Air Operated Grease Gun for Christmas a while back. More economical than a battery operated one. I use it for my tractor, trailers, tillers, SUV and the coach.

https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-1162-.../dp/B0019COQ6C

[EVsCoach]

Man, you all are awesome with the advice and just makes a greasy situation harder!😂😎🇺🇸🚁



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[MxChief66-1]

Finally got my wood ramps built (thanks to Matt) and with some nice weather rolled it up and crawled underneath it. Had adequate space with bags dumped to get underneath with the front. Back was a different story. I'll be investing in a set of 22ton jacks to gain better access to the rear.

I found a total of 23 grease points underneath:

13- front axle
2- drive axle
4- tag axle
3- driveline
1 - steering u-joint (still need to get the upper ones)

Those familiar with the 2016 K2 what did I miss? Thanks!

Mark

[twinboat]

If you have air, drum brakes, there are 2 per side.

One each on the slack adjuster.

One each in the S cam tubes. They are often missed.

They should be greased, until fresh grease flows out, between the slack adjuster and the tube.

You will probably see others saying not to grease them that much. You decide.

[MxChief66-1]

Originally Posted by twinboat

If you have air, drum brakes, there are 2 per side.

One each on the slack adjuster.

One each in the S cam tubes. They are often missed.

They should be greased, until fresh grease flows out, between the slack adjuster and the tube.

You will probably see others saying not to grease them that much. You decide.

I missed the S cam tubes on drive axle. I didn't think it made senses only having 2 zerks. It was very uncomfortable doing the drive and I was moving much faster. I guess I get to get back under it this weekend!

Thanks for the catch.

[photraveller]

Mark, I have Matt's wood ramps on my To Do List, how tall did you end up making them?

Steve

[MxChief66-1]

Originally Posted by photraveller

Mark, I have Matt's wood ramps on my To Do List, how tall did you end up making them?

Steve

Steve,

In deriving my dimensions I knew I didn't want the overall length more than 48" or the top any shorter than 22". The remainder of other boards are based on block and flat dimensions.

Mine finished out at just under 4" and 12" wide. I used 3/4" treated plywood. Each level has a 3"x3/4" block and 5" flat transition to next level.

The bottom board including the block is 48". The top is 22" including the block attached to the board below it.

I believe my dimensions are pretty close to what Matt described.

With jacks up and bags dumped this just allows me enough room to slide underneath when sitting on concrete pad.

I considered going with 2" board but I wanted to keep weight down since I plan to keep them in the coach.

Hope this helps.

[ATTACH]148202

[buddy110]

Originally Posted by Smitty3509

There are 10 fittings in the front and 10 in the rear, do a count so you know you got them all. There are 2 on each end of the drive shaft (the universal joint). This was from the Spartan owners class. You'll need some heavy duty jack stands! My coach is 44000#. You could make some ramps using railroad ties......

Why not raise the wheels using the levelers in the coach?

[jrs]

Originally Posted by MxChief66-1

Steve,

In deriving my dimensions I knew I didn't want the overall length more than 48" or the top any shorter than 22". The remainder of other boards are based on block and flat dimensions.

Mine finished out at just under 4" and 12" wide. I used 3/4" treated plywood. Each level has a 3"x3/4" block and 5" flat transition to next level.

The bottom board including the block is 48". The top is 22" including the block attached to the board below it.

I believe my dimensions are pretty close to what Matt described.

With jacks up and bags dumped this just allows me enough room to slide underneath when sitting on concrete pad.

I considered going with 2" board but I wanted to keep weight down since I plan to keep them in the coach.

Hope this helps.

[ATTACH]148202

Mark, when we go full timing (1 of 2 choices is the Anthem 44A), I want to do a lot of my own work on the rig where possible. I see you full time and you're able to fit all of this stuff in your basement of your rig? I'm guessing space in these larger rigs isn't as big an issue? I appreciate your response!

[Matt D]

Originally Posted by buddy110

Why not raise the wheels using the levelers in the coach?

Too easy for something to happen and the levelers retract.

In general, I only get under if it is on wooden blocks like pictured, and the suspension is dumped.

There are a unlucky few who have had accidents while working on their rigs.

Totally worth being careful.

-Matt

[MxChief66-1]

Originally Posted by jrs

Mark, when we go full timing (1 of 2 choices is the Anthem 44A), I want to do a lot of my own work on the rig where possible. I see you full time and you're able to fit all of this stuff in your basement of your rig? I'm guessing space in these larger rigs isn't as big an issue? I appreciate your response!

Yes, It's my plan to carry these with me in the basement since I also plan to use them to help keep tires planted on those unlevel Park spots.

Prior to buying our Anthem we've had 5th wheels. The storage capacity on this coach is nearly 80% of curb weight of our last trailer. We're still trying to fill empty space and haven't yet done the basement shelf mod.

We do need to be very mindful of our weights and how they are distributed to maintain a good CG and proper tire pressures.

[Ron @ HHI]

To simplify this why not make a stack of wood square’s at the appropriate height. Raise the coach and just place them under the tires. Then just lower the coach on to the wood blocks. With the parking brake on this seems safe to me. You could just raise the jack's about 1 inch off the ground to act is a safety .If on soft ground the bottom square could be 24” x 24” and the others 12” x 12”. I carry these pieces any way for soft ground or very on level ground.

[Matt D]

Ron, the reason I chose the plywood is that I also use these in uneven sites to help level the coach. Having an adjustable height is crucial to this effort.

Also, by using plywood I can slide the boards under the basement slide out cargo tray. This way, I can utilize storage space that would otherwise go to waste, and not consume space elsewhere.

Regarding bringing things to perform maintenance as a full timer, I would plan on doing everything except oil changes. At home, I use a number of 3 gallon jugs to drain the engine oil/transmission fluid/coolant then recycle. I simply wouldn't want to forfeit the considerable space required to store these jugs, for only annual use.

If we were full time, Speedco or Cummins would handle these chores.

-Matt