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Old 07-13-2013, 08:37 AM   #15
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Common sources of dash air issues and their diagnosis.

1: Nothing at all wrong with it, The problem is TOO MUCH WINDSHIELD (Greenhouse effect) Diagnosis, take a thermometer that can read zero to 100 degrees (or more) often meat thermometers will have the range, You want one with a "probe" (Like a meat thermometer) stick it in a dash vent and put it on MAX fan on high, Put a second thermometer below the dash (near the intake) if intake - outlet greater than 30 you are golden, near 30 you are good.

Temp controls stuck.. three types of A/C systems starting with After Market.

After Market air systems use a thermostatically controlled compressor, Just like your roof air with the fan set on HIGH the compressor cycles on and off... Only used on after market systems far as I can tell.

Air blend: (Factory air) this one uses an adjustable air damper to mix in hot air from the heater with cold air from the AC evaporator, the compressor runs all the time.

Hot Water Flow control: Same as above but all the air goes through both the A/C Evaporator AND the heater core, Water flow through the heater is regulated to warm it up some.

In both of these systems the regulator can fail/stick or just plain not work letting too much HOT in.

If the A/C works normally with the engine cold, then as the engine gets hotter the air really heats up, perhaps even to the point of being WARMER on the outlet than the inlet, SUSPECT the mixing system.

Finally. and again this is normal.. .In very hot conditions there is enough radiant heat from the engine radiator (Humm, radiator radiant,, Yup, that's why) that the condenser coils on the A/C get so hot they just can't do it any more. Not much you can do about that save drive at night.

Some folks up-thread had some good suggestings and some were "Basically good" the "Get a can of refrigerant" (134A recharge kit) is good ONLY if you need it,, If your system does nto need a recharge it will do more harm than good.. You need a pressure gauge to get an idea of if you need it (Same source) or a full A/C diagnostic kit to be certain, I won't go into the ful ldiagnostic procedure mostly because I've never done it, but it involves 4 different temp readings and two different pressure readings.. not for the faint of tool box.
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Old 07-13-2013, 08:55 AM   #16
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Thanks for all the replies. We're back on the road today. I'll check everything I'm capable of checking before we hit the road.
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:34 AM   #17
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I have had a few cab air issues over the last couple of years. I have found that anything past a simple need of freon (not a fix of why) is about as far as, at least, my selling dealer would service. When fan began to sqeal then I got the "we don't service chassis ac". I thought I was in trouble but sure enough Freightliner service dept obliged me with the service, even used ext warranty. And, after new fan motor was installed tech did not like cooling temp so replaced a relay as well as compressor. I have had leak in freon since and they fixed that. Although OP does not have FL chassis if Spart uses dye in freon then if there is a leak perhaps it will be easy to find. I sure agree with one poster that the big problem with our cab ac is all that windshield, just to much for the chassis ac to handle in the extreme heat.
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Old 07-13-2013, 10:41 AM   #18
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90 -100 outside temp should not be to extreme for the dash ac to work properly.Mine starts up cold and goes warm in 30 minutes of drive time.You are right that a typical service facility that is getting paid by the manufacture to check it out wont spend the time to drive it and try to duplicate the complaint.The heater control valve make sense.
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:44 AM   #19
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Regarding the unfriendly office.. Consider the following words:

Dear Mr. C.E.O.

I recently had cause to visit your authorized facility in Grand Rapids, MI, (Insert name here) and......
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:00 AM   #20
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One more possibility...

On our way out to Middlebury last month with our new Aspire we noticed the dash air provided weak or nonexistent cooling even with outside temps just in the 70's.

Another item on our punch list for this trip was the "Air Temp" value displayed in the Spartan message center - it always read "00.0".

The Air Temp sensor was fixed (loose plug) so now outside air temp read correctly. Subsequently the techs labeled our dash A/C complaint as "no problem found". Driving home after our assorted repairs, the dash A/C seemed to work great.

On the way home, we also stopped by Spartan in Charlotte, MI for their 44 point inspection (found two other issues with the chassis) and I asked Chris the service writer if the Air Temp sensor would affect the operation of the dash A/C - he said he thought that it would.

Worth a look, check your Air Temp value in the Spartan message center and make sure it is reading the actual outside temp.
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:29 PM   #21
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If you have the Evans AC/Heater cooling unit your Evans control valve is probably damaged because it was installed wrong with hot water flowing backwards through it.
Read this thread for the results.
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