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Old 06-03-2022, 09:50 AM   #1
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Dash AC expectations

Hey all,

Still working out getting to know our 2016 Anthem. When we picked it up from Phoenix in Dec the AC seemed fine but it was not hot. Now it's 100* in Texas and the dash isn't cutting it. Using the generator to take the edge off.

How cold are they when new? Should I look in to a fix?
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Old 06-03-2022, 10:00 AM   #2
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You should have 18* split from the vents to the return. You must run the generator and all 3 roof air conditioners to keep up with the heat coming in from the windshield. Doesn’t matter who makes the coach. If it’s blowing cold from the vents, it’s doing all it can.
If you take the split and you don’t have 18* from the vents go the return you need to get it serviced. If you turn it on and it’s blowing hot and no cooling, you have lost charge and needs to be repaired.
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Old 06-03-2022, 10:05 AM   #3
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The dash AC's are famous for the fittings on the hose at the compressor to leak and not hold Freon. There are several posts with photos in the search function. The fix it to normally have new fittings installed on the hose, but leak check the system first.
On my 14 the compressor itself was bad. Once fixed the system works great. My 21 is about 52* at the vent
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Old 06-03-2022, 10:08 AM   #4
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I cannot speak for the Entegra but I can for the Jayco Precept with the large windshield and 102 degrees weather in Texas while driving home this week. I ran both my air conditioners to keep the coach cool while traveling. I was commenting to my wife about how hot it was and glad we had two AC's. I also mentioned that is why I often see motorized fans mounted in the cockpit areas of a lot of motorhomes. There have been times, I have dropped my sun shade low enough to look through it when I drive to keep that heat out when driving west with the sun blaring on the windshield and notice a considerable difference in the temperature in the cockpit area.
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Old 06-03-2022, 10:35 AM   #5
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I had clear ceramic tint installed on my windshield and front side windows, most of the time my dash air keeps up now. The tint blocks about 1/2 of the radiated heat. Cost around $800 but worth it.
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Old 06-03-2022, 10:39 AM   #6
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At anything near 90, we have to run the genny and roof top a/c.
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Old 06-03-2022, 11:56 AM   #7
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Here in the west we always run the roof a/c as well as the dash a/c ...I set the Zone Stat to call for all 3 units when coach temp is high. Then when driving and the dash air is losing cooling ability, I start the generator and the roof a/c will start automatically....I never have to leave my seat...
When we haven't used the roofs while traveling in hot weather it just takes too long to cool the coach once we land for the night.

Works for us!
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Old 06-03-2022, 01:49 PM   #8
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Every post from the beginning of this thread is telling you accurately about AC in these buses. I live in NW Louisiana but I am now stuck in Houston getting medical treatment and so I am dealing with AC while in an RV park on 97 degree days. All 3 of my AC units work solidly/continuously from ~ 9:00 am to ~ 9:00 pm.

My dash AC unit has never worked for long periods of time. I mean, when new, it worked maybe 9 months and then just was not working well. Needed Freon added. Then it worked another ~ 9 months and again needed AC service. I've also had the compressor replaced once on this Cornerstone and twice on my previous Anthem. As mentioned already, the dash AC was never able to keep the front of this B floor plan cool on a hot day. When it was working well, it cooled Dee and me but not beyond the front seats.

I've gotten tired of the dash AC not working so now the genny and the three roof AC units are running anytime I am in hot weather. The fittings on the compressor seem to leak Freon on many coaches. If you are double jointed and a contortionist (I'm not) you can buy the equipment and add Freon yourself. The fittings are behind the generator.

Word on the street is that there are units that are fully elf-contained on the drawing boards and don't require 50' runs of hose to get from the compressor to the dash unit, and maybe that will be a logic that works, but I have been unimpressed with the dash AC set up of my coach since I bought it and it was the same as my previous Anthem.

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Old 06-03-2022, 05:16 PM   #9
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Ohhhhh, the SECRET is: Go North in the summer, and go South in the winter..... Priceless !

Gary
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Old 06-03-2022, 07:36 PM   #10
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On my 17 the dash air quit and I got the system repaired. A few months later it died and I just used the generator and roof air conditioners.

So far so good on my 22.

If heading west in the afternoon on a sunny day we have so much heat coming in from the front windshield we need to run the generator and roof air even if the dash air works properly. When heading into the sun we just do not get enough cool air volume to keep the coach temperature down with just the dash air.

On of the things that is supposed to be better on the 23’s is a more powerful dash air conditioner.

I agree with Gary. When possible I try to avoid the north in the winter and south in the summer. But life has a way on making that a challenge sometimes.
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Old 06-04-2022, 06:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Fox View Post
At anything near 90, we have to run the genny and roof top a/c.
We do as well, even with the dash AC running when in new condition.
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Old 06-04-2022, 11:15 AM   #12
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Very helpful. Thank you all! I am going to get my IR thermometer out to check the split just for fun. Out of ignorance, where is the intake (opposed to just normal looking vents)?
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Old 06-04-2022, 12:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainYARRR View Post
Very helpful. Thank you all! I am going to get my IR thermometer out to check the split just for fun. Out of ignorance, where is the intake (opposed to just normal looking vents)?
The intake for the dash AC is outside on the firewall up high. Looks like this.
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Old 06-04-2022, 12:51 PM   #14
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Dash AC expectations

I’ve had 5 Entegras and worked on the air conditioners of 4. Not 5 only cause I didn’t have the fifth one long enough. About the best center duct temp I could get consistently was 48-50 degrees in 80ish degree ambient. It will then begin to rise based on the heat soak from the temperature and sun load. I have a garage and even in warm temperatures, I can get pretty good cooling simply because I’m not fighting a sun load. As said, as soon as you are exposed to a humid sunny 90 degree day, everything becomes pretty marginal. That’s really no fault of the system, with no barrier, it’s trying to cool half of the coach!
In addition to the outside intake Brobox pointed out, the recirc air intake for the a/c unit is floor level passenger side. Your intake temperature is essentially whatever the temperature is inside the coach. Your temperature drop will be pretty variable based on environment but 20 to 25 degrees is as good as any target. In the end it’s all about what comes out the duct! I keep a dial thermometer clipped on my center louver all the time.
One thing that helps is always make sure your system is in max air mode, never ever normal!
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