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Old 08-04-2022, 07:45 PM   #1
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Electric water heater not working

The electric hot water part of my aqua hot has stopped working.

The diesel part seems to be working ok.

I reset the AC hot water breaker and did a 12V reboot.

I see no amp change on the vegatouch when I turn the electric hot water on even when it has been off a good while.

The hot water comes about at about 80 when running. Eventually a little cooler. I think that is the outside temperature.

I plan to pull the cover and get the serial number and call aqua hot.

It also looks like my green transfer fluid is low but not empty. I have never added to it. I never added to my other coach either. I donít even have the fluid but I will get some.

I went into the diagnostic menu and see no Aquahot faults on vegatouch.

Any experienced people have any ideas for me to check?

At the rate I am going if I keep this coach a few years I might be a qualified RV repairman before I am doneÖÖ
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Old 08-04-2022, 10:33 PM   #2
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The aquahot has a reset button on the AC high-limit thermostat which is inside the small electrical box on the left side of the aquahot once you take the cover off. 3 bolts to take the cover off, 2 screws to take the faceplate of the electrical box off, reach in with a pen or screwdriver and push the reset button. Should see the fluid temp start to raise on the reporter after a minute or so. More info can be found in the aquahot manual on page 23: https://www.aquahot.com/files/servic...%20Rev%20C.pdf
It is important to note that there are separate thermostats for the AC and DC sides of the system which is why the diesel burner can still function fine while the electrical element is not. Hope this helps!
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Old 08-05-2022, 05:56 AM   #3
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Page 15 and 34 and 35 https://www.aquahot.com/files/servic...%20Rev%20C.pdf
The heating element can be tested with a volt meter. Remove power from the AH, then remove the two wires from the heating element. Test the continuity with the volt meter. We just had an element go out on a one moth old hot water heater at the hanger. The element can be replaced at HD or Lowe's. It is a 120v element for small hot water heaters


Also might try a 12v reboot for the Vega Touch panel. I have been having a lot of problems with my VT since the 1.5.5 update and I am not even traveling.
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Old 08-05-2022, 06:15 AM   #4
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My AC element burnt out and had to be replaced. It showed as an open when checked with an ammeter. Not a terribly big job and I wrote a full write up about the process that is in the files and can be found with a good search od this forum/entegra.

The information you have already been given in this thread is accurate and the first things to try.

Gary
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Old 08-05-2022, 06:22 AM   #5
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Here is one of the threads about electric AC not working that will teach you most of what you need to know. Stu, 777Driver has an excellent picture and his info, the manual, and my experience with this problem should get you most of the distance you need to go to get your system working again.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/aqu...-573788-4.html

Gary
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Old 08-05-2022, 06:25 AM   #6
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I would check the high limits on the inside of the unit. They might be tripped. If it's not working after that, it's usually an element. If you have good 110 voltage at the element when asking for it to be on, it needs to be replaced. Pull the cover and press in on the center of the high limits across the top. They provided you with the manual above.
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Old 08-05-2022, 06:25 AM   #7
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My repair also necessitated replacing the potter and Brumfield power relay that actually controls the electric element.

Gary
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Old 08-05-2022, 06:41 AM   #8
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This thread will add to your knowledge. My AC heating element was not actually replaced but the problem was actually a failed 120 VAC relay (The Potter and Brumfield relay) which is right in the same box as the electric element. But we also replaced the main temp thermostat

This thread will get you the rest of the way to an understanding.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/wha...ml#post6020557

Separately, we considered replacing the element but it checked good. Then the thermostat. The thermostat or the element, then you must remove/drain water from the AquaHot box to a level you can pull out the thermostat. As I say, I had an AquaHot pro do that job and he did it a way I would have never tried before watching him. He did not drain. He loosened the thermostat and with one hand unscrewed the old thermostat and in his other hand had the new thermostat ready to go in (sealant on ring) and when he removed the old thermostat, he immediately inserted the new thermostat and screwed it in. Very slick. Lost some water but all in all, not much and I will do the same if it needs to be done again.

Most important, MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE REMOVED ALL POWER FROM THE AQUAHOT BEFORE YOU START MESSING WITH THIS REPAIR AS YOU WILL CERTAINLY KILL YOURSELF BY GETTING ACROSS SOME 120 VAC POWER...,. YOU ARE WORKING IN SOME CLOSE QUARTERS

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Old 08-05-2022, 10:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby Dowdle View Post
I would check the high limits on the inside of the unit. They might be tripped. If it's not working after that, it's usually an element. If you have good 110 voltage at the element when asking for it to be on, it needs to be replaced. Pull the cover and press in on the center of the high limits across the top. They provided you with the manual above.
He said diesel works fine which would rule out the high limit and everything else except the 120 volt element and itís associated control.
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Old 08-05-2022, 11:50 AM   #10
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My electric element quit working and I found the element had a resettable fuse on the top that I could depress to reset. Similar to the high limit thermostat push button.
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Old 08-05-2022, 08:22 PM   #11
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It is really not that bad to replace the element - If you want to take this on yourself - I ended up doing it my self because the nearest place to service it was over 250 miles away.

Drained thru the hose at the bottom of the unit. Then refilled using a pump and a 5 gallon bucket pumping back thru the hose. This is the way the tech I talked to stated to do it.

The element needs 1.5 inch socket to remove it.

Whole job took about an hour with me taking my time. I now do a 1/2 drain and fill every year after I saw what came out after several years of use.
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Old 08-06-2022, 01:08 AM   #12
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Newer coaches with the Aqua-Hot reporter module might want to update their manuals. Current manuals are dated 2021. https://www.aquahot.com/Library.aspx
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Old 08-06-2022, 07:18 AM   #13
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And the fluid in your AquaHot is made by Century and is called Century Boiler Fluid. Its yellow/green in color. It is available from Amazon for a good price.

Gary
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Old 08-06-2022, 12:12 PM   #14
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I got a chance to dig into my aqua hot a little.
I verified all good on diesel but not on electric.

I figured out you can actually see the coolant temp on the aqua hot control panel but not on the vegatouch. And learned it takes a while for the coolant temp to drop. Maybe I could have ran hot water to speed it up the temp drop with the unit off.

Then I turned off AC power, removed the outer aqua hot cover, removed the silver cover from the AC power heating box, and tested my heating element. I tested good at 8.9 ohms.
Then I reset the little red switch on the high limit switch. It does not move much but I felt it snap so I think I reset it.

Then I went in the motorhome and turned power back on and turned electric hot water on from the vegatouch. Within a few seconds my line 2 AC amp draw went up by about 8 amps. I went and checked outside and the Aquahot temp is going up.

Now time will tell if I have a bad high limit temp switch if if this was a one off.

I am not clear if the little AC power high temp switch tripped because the something got to hot, if it is supposed to reset automatically, etc…. Or maybe it is just bad. Hopefully it just tripped and will work for a few years.

The high temp switch looks like it will be a real pain to change just because of where it is.
It is not in an easy place to get to. Maybe I will get lucky and I will not have to find out.
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