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Old 01-07-2021, 11:37 AM   #1
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Embarrassing Situation

DW was pouring a liquid down the toilet (45X has only one toilet in center of the coach). She dropped the round lid down the toilet with the valve open and down it went to the black tank.

The only solution that I can think of is to forget the macerator and use the conventional 3 in drain (which I have never used on this coach.)

Any suggestions?
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Old 01-07-2021, 11:47 AM   #2
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No idea there, but if you can tell me how to get a fork out of mine, I'd appreciate that! How did that happen?

I often dump dish water (in a pan) down the toilet, to add more water to the black tank and add some soap. I normally pour the water out of the pan, THEN push the peddle to flush the toilet. I don't know why, or what I was thinking, but I pushed the peddle first, then poured, and there it was ... fork fell out under all those soap bubbles! I tried fishing with different pokers, but it eventually fell flat on the bottom and .... gone. Never saw it again. It doesn't seem to affect dumping outside, some someday I expect something to go wrong.

FYI, we don't use toilet paper. We have a Bidet, so there's nothing to actually clog or get caught on that fork. My biggest concern that the fork works its way down the pipes and get caught in the outlet slide valve.

Oh well. when it becomes a problem, THEN I'll deal with it!
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Old 01-07-2021, 01:01 PM   #3
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Hmmm, first thing that comes to mind is a camera and snake. I had to have a company come out and run an camera through our system at the S&B. I'm sure the same thing could be done for you.

Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

Cheers!
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Old 01-07-2021, 01:15 PM   #4
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Many RV parks have a notice board. Many times there will be companies (or individuals) who post business cards. Some deal with tank management and cleaning.

I know of a couple people who have had to have the tank magicians come to retrieve dentures that were deposited after an evening of serious libation consumption.
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Old 01-07-2021, 02:08 PM   #5
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I just went through an experience with the Sanicon.... my first.

I drained the black and gray tanks when I dropped my coach off at Middlebury and S&S paint to do the 2 year PDI delayed by COVID and an operation. It worked when I dumped as I arrived in Middlebury, and did not work when I arrived at Spartan 3 weeks later after picking up the coach at Middlebury a few hours after it returned from S&S paint. What happened is hard to know and understand.

However, this is what I learned. First, the black and gray tanks will passively drain through the Sanicon hose, although they will obviously drain more slowly than if the pump is working, and obviously, the tanks will only drain downhill. I had never used the 3" stinky slinky before with this Cornerstone, but it was not hard to figure out how to use it. There is a valve in the water bay that control the flow of liquid though the system and a "T" handle that opens or closes that 3" discharge pipe. That drain goes through the basement bottom wall and terminates into a hose fitting right under the basement wall (including a plastic hose cap). If you remove the cap and use the stinky slinky, the whole process is very quick. Both black and gray tanks drain through the Sanicon motor/tank but drain out of the 3" stinky slinky hose very quickly. Draining through the Sanicon hose is much slower but the liquids and most of the dissolved solids will drain through that hose also, just takes longer.

I checked my circuit breaker and they were fine. I checked my macerator switch and it was electrically fine. I checked my relay which actually controls the macerator motor most directly by switching the 30 amp circuit on and off which applies the 12 volt power to the macerator motor. I check all of this with a voltmeter (DVM) and knew that power was getting to the motor.

Now, my problem was different. I will deal with your problem next paragraph. I found that the macerator motor is not removable by itself and in fact the motor and the fiberglass or plastic "box" (tank) or compartment that holds the motor is only sold as a single combined unit.... you cannot buy the motor alone. You must buy the unit of the motor and the tank that holds the motor. Its all sealed. There are other parts that can be replaced, but the motor and tank are just one unit. That tank and motor is Thetford part number 97518 and it was sold by Thetford a few years ago for $400.00. I discovered that Thetford does not sell to the general public direct anymore. In chatting with Thetford, they gave me two referral links for the tank and motor which were WalMart (?) priced at $348.00 and $246 at a marine and RV web site. However, neither of those sources had them in stock (they seem to be sold out generally, supply chain issues?).

I just happened to be camped near NIRVC and they had one they had ordered months ago for another owner who then sold their coach or backed out of the deal and they had been stuck with it.

Now installation was a 4 hour job and cost me $600 in labor plus the cost of the tank/motor ($1,000 total) so this was not chump-change at all. I'm glad that I didn't have to do the swap but if it happens again, I will roll up my sleeves and do the job.

Short term, buy yourself a sufficient length of stinky slinky and dump through the 3" system and then figure out what you are going to do about the motor/tank. I am pretty sure that you will only find it as a unit, and not separate parts.

More relevant to you two guys. Now, I would be afraid to just run the macerator as though there is no problem as it is only a matter of time before that hard metal object jams into the motor. If it jams and the motor burns out, then you are the same place I was. (and there was nothing dropped into my black tank.... best guess that I can make is that the motor was left "on" and run "dry" for God only knows how long by me or someone at Middlebury and it ran until it burned out).

The tank/motor unit has a glass "portal" included in it. Nicely , the glass port is positioned on the bottom of the tank as Entegra has it installed and you cannot see or get into it (its approximately one inch above the basement floor). I tried an inspection camera to see what was blocking the macerator but could not get enough space to turn the camera up through the port. I did NOT try to run the camera from above. Now, you can manually remove the macerator motor and tank out of the system (by loosening hose clamps) and once out of the coach, you can get through the glass port and you can remove whatever metal is in the tank that has not yet jammed the motor or flush the pipes to force the metal out. If you did that, you probably can get away from replacing the burned out motor. It will be a messy job but if you catch it before it jams, you will probably be able to resolve your problem before you have to lay out any money.

ANYTHING dropped into the macerator toilet will jam the motor and your system will fail. Most commonly reported on here are "wipes" or such that inexperienced visitors might drop into the toilet or metal objects like the two owners on here. However, its going to take removed of the tank assembly to clear those objects out of the tank in my experience.

Gary
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Old 01-07-2021, 02:14 PM   #6
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Embarrassing Situation

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarleySG View Post
Hmmm, first thing that comes to mind is a camera and snake. I had to have a company come out and run an camera through our system at the S&B. I'm sure the same thing could be done for you.



Good Luck and let us know how it goes.



Cheers!


There are awesome snake cameras on Amazon.

Mine hooks up to my iPhone with the cameras app I downloaded for free. It has attachments like a hook or a magnet. Snake part is waterproof. The camera end has ledís for light if you put down in dark places.

The best part.... Mine cost around $35!!!!!
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Old 01-07-2021, 02:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchmenSpor View Post
No idea there, but if you can tell me how to get a fork out of mine, I'd appreciate that! How did that happen?

I often dump dish water (in a pan) down the toilet, to add more water to the black tank and add some soap. I normally pour the water out of the pan, THEN push the peddle to flush the toilet. I don't know why, or what I was thinking, but I pushed the peddle first, then poured, and there it was ... fork fell out under all those soap bubbles! I tried fishing with different pokers, but it eventually fell flat on the bottom and .... gone. Never saw it again. It doesn't seem to affect dumping outside, some someday I expect something to go wrong.

FYI, we don't use toilet paper. We have a Bidet, so there's nothing to actually clog or get caught on that fork. My biggest concern that the fork works its way down the pipes and get caught in the outlet slide valve.

Oh well. when it becomes a problem, THEN I'll deal with it!
Not sure if this would actually work, but my first thought was to get under the coach with a strong magnet to try to move the fork toward the black tank exit and maybe even all the way to the dump cap.
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Old 01-07-2021, 03:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary.Jones View Post
I just went through an experience with the Sanicon.... my first.

I drained the black and gray tanks when I dropped my coach off at Middlebury and S&S paint to do the 2 year PDI delayed by COVID and an operation. It worked when I dumped as I arrived in Middlebury, and did not work when I arrived at Spartan 3 weeks later after picking up the coach at Middlebury a few hours after it returned from S&S paint. What happened is hard to know and understand.

However, this is what I learned. First, the black and gray tanks will passively drain through the Sanicon hose, although they will obviously drain more slowly than if the pump is working, and obviously, the tanks will only drain downhill. I had never used the 3" stinky slinky before with this Cornerstone, but it was not hard to figure out how to use it. There is a valve in the water bay that control the flow of liquid though the system and a "T" handle that opens or closes that 3" discharge pipe. That drain goes through the basement bottom wall and terminates into a hose fitting right under the basement wall (including a plastic hose cap). If you remove the cap and use the stinky slinky, the whole process is very quick. Both black and gray tanks drain through the Sanicon motor/tank but drain out of the 3" stinky slinky hose very quickly. Draining through the Sanicon hose is much slower but the liquids and most of the dissolved solids will drain through that hose also, just takes longer.

I checked my circuit breaker and they were fine. I checked my macerator switch and it was electrically fine. I checked my relay which actually controls the macerator motor most directly by switching the 30 amp circuit on and off which applies the 12 volt power to the macerator motor. I check all of this with a voltmeter (DVM) and knew that power was getting to the motor.

Now, my problem was different. I will deal with your problem next paragraph. I found that the macerator motor is not removable by itself and in fact the motor and the fiberglass or plastic "box" (tank) or compartment that holds the motor is only sold as a single combined unit.... you cannot buy the motor alone. You must buy the unit of the motor and the tank that holds the motor. Its all sealed. There are other parts that can be replaced, but the motor and tank are just one unit. That tank and motor is Thetford part number 97518 and it was sold by Thetford a few years ago for $400.00. I discovered that Thetford does not sell to the general public direct anymore. In chatting with Thetford, they gave me two referral links for the tank and motor which were WalMart (?) priced at $348.00 and $246 at a marine and RV web site. However, neither of those sources had them in stock (they seem to be sold out generally, supply chain issues?).

I just happened to be camped near NIRVC and they had one they had ordered months ago for another owner who then sold their coach or backed out of the deal and they had been stuck with it.

Now installation was a 4 hour job and cost me $600 in labor plus the cost of the tank/motor ($1,000 total) so this was not chump-change at all. I'm glad that I didn't have to do the swap but if it happens again, I will roll up my sleeves and do the job.

Short term, buy yourself a sufficient length of stinky slinky and dump through the 3" system and then figure out what you are going to do about the motor/tank. I am pretty sure that you will only find it as a unit, and not separate parts.

More relevant to you two guys. Now, I would be afraid to just run the macerator as though there is no problem as it is only a matter of time before that hard metal object jams into the motor. If it jams and the motor burns out, then you are the same place I was. (and there was nothing dropped into my black tank.... best guess that I can make is that the motor was left "on" and run "dry" for God only knows how long by me or someone at Middlebury and it ran until it burned out).

The tank/motor unit has a glass "portal" included in it. Nicely , the glass port is positioned on the bottom of the tank as Entegra has it installed and you cannot see or get into it (its approximately one inch above the basement floor). I tried an inspection camera to see what was blocking the macerator but could not get enough space to turn the camera up through the port. I did NOT try to run the camera from above. Now, you can manually remove the macerator motor and tank out of the system (by loosening hose clamps) and once out of the coach, you can get through the glass port and you can remove whatever metal is in the tank that has not yet jammed the motor or flush the pipes to force the metal out. If you did that, you probably can get away from replacing the burned out motor. It will be a messy job but if you catch it before it jams, you will probably be able to resolve your problem before you have to lay out any money.

ANYTHING dropped into the macerator toilet will jam the motor and your system will fail. Most commonly reported on here are "wipes" or such that inexperienced visitors might drop into the toilet or metal objects like the two owners on here. However, its going to take removed of the tank assembly to clear those objects out of the tank in my experience.

Gary

My macerator went bad and I had to have it replaced. I watched it being done and it was a very difficult task that I would not want to tackle. I say that while acknowledging that there are many more capable than I.
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Old 01-07-2021, 03:49 PM   #9
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I agree, put a slinky on and dump via the slinky. Make sure you close the spade valve to the macerator dump. And somehow watch what comes out the slinky 🤢! Cause if you miss seeing it, you are going to have to pull the macerator apart. I wouldnít chance it damaging the impeller.
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Old 01-07-2021, 04:18 PM   #10
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Update on bottle lid in black tank;
1. the lid is plastic.
2. I checked another identical lid. It Floats.
3. It should come out the 3 in. slinky when I dump.
4. I'll try to rig a filter to be sure it comes out.
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Old 01-07-2021, 04:51 PM   #11
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Try filling up the tank with water. Remove cap on 3" under coach. Open valve and see if the parts comeout. It is possible that with the flow of water they will float out. There are also magnet on a flex cable. Might be able to fish that in the drain and catch the fork.
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Old 01-07-2021, 05:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcphil_98 View Post
Update on bottle lid in black tank;
1. the lid is plastic.
2. I checked another identical lid. It Floats.
3. It should come out the 3 in. slinky when I dump.
4. I'll try to rig a filter to be sure it comes out.
Ok not much help here but - Just remember to video the dumping of your tank with your filter apparatus on it.... It wont be pretty but it should provide some good entertainment for the rest of us. If you post it I'll buy the beer!!!!

Ya sorry not much help today!
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Old 01-07-2021, 06:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcphil_98 View Post
Update on bottle lid in black tank;
1. the lid is plastic.
2. I checked another identical lid. It Floats.
3. It should come out the 3 in. slinky when I dump.
4. I'll try to rig a filter to be sure it comes out.
I replaced the macerator on our 2017 due to leaking. I also tore the old one down to see how it ticked. Anyway to the best of my recollection a plastic cap couldnít get into the pump. There isnít a big open hole going into the pump, best I remember.
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Old 01-07-2021, 09:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Rollin101 View Post
I replaced the macerator on our 2017 due to leaking. I also tore the old one down to see how it ticked. Anyway to the best of my recollection a plastic cap couldnít get into the pump. There isnít a big open hole going into the pump, best I remember.
I am trying to determine the waste drainage route. If I am using the Macerator By-Pass Valve (conventional 3 in. slinky), does the plumbing go through the macerator or does it truly "by-pass" the macerator and go directly to the 3 inch line? In other words, will the approximately 1 inch plastic cap be caught up in the macerator even though the macerator is not operating and the by-pass valve is open?

Getting worried.
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