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Old 10-17-2014, 08:33 AM   #1
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First time Do it yourself Gen Service Advice

Ok I have all my OEM filters and oil. Ready to change the oil. Any tips for me to keep me from screwing this up?

Do you change it cold or do you run it first? Anything else I need to know or is it that easy. Will the service hour meter on the Gen control panel reset automatically?

Thanks fellas.
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:43 AM   #2
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Quote:
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Will the service hour meter on the Gen control panel reset automatically?
I doubt it... (mine does not).
My generator hour meter records/displays the "total running hours", (similar to the "total miles" an odometer records and displays).
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:50 AM   #3
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Mine has a count down to service on a separate meter. Mine says "Service in 15 hours".
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Old 10-17-2014, 10:36 AM   #4
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Run the Genny for 5 mins to warm oil. If it's not run the oil is hard to drain. If you run it too long it'll be real hot. My oil drain plug took a 23 mm 6 point socket on a two foot breaker bar to loosen. Don't even try some adjustable wrench, you'll just round off the plug. I had to lay on the ground (not a creeper) to get the leverage to break that bolt. It went"cccrrraccck"... Real loud. They must use a pneumatic wrench on it at Kubota.
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Old 10-17-2014, 10:37 AM   #5
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The oil change is pretty straight forward. You will need a funnel to pour in new oil. I changed my generator cold; don't want to handle hot oil. My drain plug was on pretty tight from the factory and I had to use a breaker bar for more leverage.

Clean or replace the air filter too. My air filter was pretty dirty. There are two or three screws that need to be removed that hold the coolant reservoir which will need to be tilted to get the air filter out.

You will have to do a manual hour reset, pretty straight forward.
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Old 10-17-2014, 11:25 AM   #6
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Yep, Onan has a big gorilla tightening up all the drain plugs. Happens to all of them. You don't need them to be that tight but you will need a big breaker bar, as mentioned in the previous posts, to break it free the first time to undo what they did.

Some Onan oil filters as originally installed are a smaller diameter than the replacement filters so you may need a smaller wrench or big channel lock pliers to get it off.

The fuel filter is a bit of a challenge to get to. It's held in place with a couple of metric fasteners. I would break the fittings loose with a flare nut wrench first, then remove the filter bolts to allow it to slide up for easier access, then finish removing the two fuel lines.

When you are all done hold the start-stop switch to the stop position for a while to run the electric fuel pump and prime the fuel system.

Finally, reset your service hours in the Onan EC-30 AGS panel.
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Old 10-17-2014, 11:34 AM   #7
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You also need to clean the spark arrest chamber. I remove the spark arrestor plug then run the gen full throttle for 5 minutes (ACs on). Then I re-install the spark arrestor plug and change the oil. For more info see RVGeeks video on YT here:
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Old 10-17-2014, 03:41 PM   #8
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If you want to make the oil change easier next time, changing the drain plug sure helps. The Fumoto valve would not fit, darn it! I save the gallon jugs from the first oil change to use with the EZ drain valve. Eliminate Messy Oil Changes - No-Spillâ„¢ Systems

You will have reset the oil change meter. As for the air filter and spark arrestor...if this is the 50 mile break in oil change, those can be skipped.
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Old 10-17-2014, 03:51 PM   #9
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That would help. I use Fumoto most everywhere but with it N/A for the Onan this would help. The hose would prevent the wind from blowing the oil around, which is a plus when doing shade tree service work. I will look into this for the next coach.
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:47 PM   #10
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That would help. I use Fumoto most everywhere but with it N/A for the Onan this would help. The hose would prevent the wind from blowing the oil around, which is a plus when doing shade tree service work. I will look into this for the next coach.
Mark, I took the hose off and will open the valve to drain right into gallon jugs.
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:35 PM   #11
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Remove the fill cap before draining the oil. Makes it flow well and doesn't bubble out the bottom that way. Breaker bar and a cheater pipe on mine the first time, I must be gettin' old.
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:03 PM   #12
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Chuck, what was the number for the one you ordered? Thanks.

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Old 10-18-2014, 04:14 AM   #13
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Dave, it was the 10-22150-11 with the standard strainer. The engine in the Cummins 10 through 12.5 KW is a Kubota D 1503. That is a good number to make a note of. Easy to get parts at an Auto Parts under that name/number, but nothing listed under Cummins 12.5 KW. Oil filters for a Kubota, no problem and about 1/2 the price even for Cummins Fleetguard #LF3706. I think mine was $5.
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Old 10-18-2014, 07:44 AM   #14
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Got it done. Very easy to do but you were right that oil drain bolt was on there!

Figured out the service reset on the panel.

I have to get one of those valves for the next service. Would really make it easy.
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