Community Forums

umsman · 10-31-2016, 02:06 PM

How do you keep from having a dead battery on toad at destination.I have a 2014 Anthem, and will be towing a 2015 F150 Ford. Directions on Ford, after you put the transfer case in neutral, leave the key on accessories . Few years back I towed a 08 Jeep wangler. And on the fuse box it had a fuse I could pull up on.. Any help would be appreciated Thanks in advance.. John

Mac99 · 10-31-2016, 02:11 PM

Your 7 pin connector has a 12V and a ground wired into it.
I ran the 12v and the ground directly to the battery, so the
coach keeps it charged while going down the road.
The 12V also runs to my brake system for its function.
6 years, 80,000 no problems.

Mr_D · 10-31-2016, 02:23 PM

Charge line from the batteries with auto resetting fuses at both ends of the line. Did it years ago to the present Ody. Never had a dead battery since. I used 30 amp automotive fuses and 8GA wire.

HHg · 10-31-2016, 02:29 PM

TOAD-CHARGE Dinghy Vehicle Battery Charger/Maintainer

Try this link, the product is great !

Thanks,
Hhg

Tall Tex · 10-31-2016, 03:12 PM

I use the tow bar cord running the + and - to the battery terminals with an inline 20 amp fuse between the plug on the car and the battery. The coach has a 30 amp fuse for the charge wire in the round fuse compartment located in the rear passenger side compartment. The small wire size concerns me but it has been working fine.

A side note: the new Jeep Cherokee when flat towing requires a kit from Jeep that turns on the electronic power steering system to keep the front wheels from wobbling induced by certain types of bumps in the road.

Matt D · 10-31-2016, 03:40 PM

John, I believe you're possibly missing a step. Please review step #6 on page 270 of your Owner's Manual.

In short, you do not leave ACCY on. Whether you have keyless, or a normal keyed ignition, you follow the steps carefully but do not leave the vehicle powered up.

I've towed 2 different F-150s, one with a key (2WD W/DSD) and my current setup a 2015 Platinum 4WD.

Assuming you have the Automatic Transfer case, and keyless ignition, here is what I do:

-Pull up behind MH, fold mirrors, put HVAC system in Recirc, turn off truck.
-Hook up to MH.
-With feet on floor of truck, press ignition switch once to turn on ACCY.
-Press on brake, pull transmission into Neutral.
-Switch 4WD selector from 2H to 4L 5 times in 7 seconds.
-Observe dash indications it is safe to tow.
-Release brake(s), I typically only use the Parking Brake when on an incline.
-Press ignition button one time to turn pickup off
-Before exiting pickup, use menu selector on steering wheel to reset alarm to Perimeter. This avoids alarming when towed. Use inside lock button, or manual door locks to lock truck. The key fob to lock sets all alarms.
-Push truck to lock tow bar arms and verify it will roll freely.
-Check lights and cargo security
-Drive.

The only reason to have a toad charge is if you're using a braking system that uses the pickup battery as a power source. I don't, and have pulled my pickups about 20,000+ miles without any battery issues whatsoever.

Watch, we will have a dead battery next time out!

I hope this helps,

-Matt

umsman · 10-31-2016, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HHg

TOAD-CHARGE Dinghy Vehicle Battery Charger/Maintainer

Try this link, the product is great !

Thanks,
Hhg

Thanks Hhg THANKS This looks great

umsman · 10-31-2016, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt D

John, I believe you're possibly missing a step. Please review step #6 on page 270 of your Owner's Manual.

In short, you do not leave ACCY on. Whether you have keyless, or a normal keyed ignition, you follow the steps carefully but do not leave the vehicle powered up.

I've towed 2 different F-150s, one with a key (2WD W/DSD) and my current setup a 2015 Platinum 4WD.

Assuming you have the Automatic Transfer case, and keyless ignition, here is what I do:

-Pull up behind MH, fold mirrors, put HVAC system in Recirc, turn off truck.
-Hook up to MH.
-With feet on floor of truck, press ignition switch once to turn on ACCY.
-Press on brake, pull transmission into Neutral.
-Switch 4WD selector from 2H to 4L 5 times in 7 seconds.
-Observe dash indications it is safe to tow.
-Release brake(s), I typically only use the Parking Brake when on an incline.
-Press ignition button one time to turn pickup off
-Before exiting pickup, use menu selector on steering wheel to reset alarm to Perimeter. This avoids alarming when towed. Use inside lock button, or manual door locks to lock truck. The key fob to lock sets all alarms.
-Push truck to lock tow bar arms and verify it will roll freely.
-Check lights and cargo security
-Drive.

The only reason to have a toad charge is if you're using a braking system that uses the pickup battery as a power source. I don't, and have pulled my pickups about 20,000+ miles without any battery issues whatsoever.

Watch, we will have a dead battery next time out!

I hope this helps,

-Matt

Matt I plan on having Air Force One Braking installed.. Will this not drain on battery ?
Also my page 270 in owner manual speaks of tires.. and I have a key not a start-stop button.

Matt D · 10-31-2016, 04:11 PM

I'm not familiar with that braking system, check to see if it requires 12V to function, if so get a Toad charge as you suspected.

Regarding the key, I'm not sure we are both looking at the correct version of the Owner's Manual. Look in your manual for the section regarding what Ford calls "Recreational Towing" or "Towing with all four wheels on the ground."

In short, with a key you do essentially the same steps, but when you're done you turn the key as far towards OFF as you can go. Because the transmission remains in Neutral, you will not be able to turn the key all the way off, but ACCY will be off and you will not drain the battery that way.

By the way, towing the 150 is a real pleasure.

-Matt

xtechgeek · 10-31-2016, 04:31 PM

I had a marine grade master battery switch installed on the toad - I leave it in the off position when towing. The RV +12 umbilical runs to the positive terminal of the toad battery to keep the it topped off. A dedicated +12 line is run from the toad battery to inside the drivers area for power to my brake controller.

I had too many instances where the RV could not keep up with the amp draw because I'd forget to turn off the lights or wipers on the toad (too smart of vehicle) would end up blowing a fuse; consequently a dead battery at my destination. A master switch has fixed it all.

Cory

BurninDiesel · 10-31-2016, 10:03 PM

We tow a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee with "Active Drive II" 4x4. 1 minute and we are out and ignition off! Air Force One air brakes from the coach. No mileage goes on the vehicle. That was important to us.

brobox · 11-01-2016, 05:28 AM

I like the free and easy method of running a charge wire from the center pin of the Entegra to the battery of the tow vehicle. It does require a six pin plug for the toad, but that is an easy change. I think both ends set was $11. at O'Rileys If your umbilical cord is only 4 wire, it is easy to wire tie a wire to the cord instead of replacing it. Easy to connect, nothing to short out of it gets wet, and only one wire to connect if you buy a new toad that needs battery charging.

252sparky · 11-01-2016, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by umsman

Matt I plan on having Air Force One Braking installed.. Will this not drain on battery ?
Also my page 270 in owner manual speaks of tires.. and I have a key not a start-stop button.

Air Force One braking system does require 12V to operate. I use coach power thru 7 pin trailer cord. Also use the trailer braking wire for dash indicator light when toad brakes are applied.
I know this doesn't apply to the F-150, but Mopar offers a lighting wiring kit that disconnects Wrangler tail lights when 12V is applied from coach. This system uses no power from the toad to power brakes or tail lights. No current draw on the toad battery when towing.