Originally Posted by ShadowBolt
Now I'm not sure I do. When it's really going to be cold (lower 20's) I set the thermostat to gas at 50 degrees. Zone one and three are turned on. The LP burner and the electric burner on. Works perfect. Sat morning it was supposed to be in the upper 20's so I turned off the LP and left the electric burner on. Just for kicks before I walked out I turned up the thermostat to 55 (it was 50 in the coach at the time) and nothing happened. I waited and waited. Shouldn't the heaters come on even with just the electric burner on? Joyce had told me when we first got the unit that I should set the heat to gas and zone 2 only when it gets central Texas cold. I just don't trust the floor heat that much. Oh and I also keep the basement heat on low anytime I'm running heat.
I guess either I don't understand or my electric burner is not working.
JJ, Did you find any resolution for this issue?
Hmmm, in my opinion and experience the answer is yes the heaters should come on for the condition you described. To clarify, for Zone 1 and 3 you should hear the heat exchanger fans come on. For zone 2 you might not hear it, but the booster pump (in the PS wet bay) should come on.
I just tried it on my Aspire (with the 350LP AquaHot) to be sure. Electric on, Burner (LP) off, thermostat set to GAS. Heat exchanger fans come on immediately.
I know someone else mentioned the heat exchanger fans don't come on until the water temp gets hot enough, but that's not the case on the Aspire's with the 350LP Aquahot - at least that's not how it is set up on mine. Probably the diesel burner units are rigged differently, I don't know.
Also, I have found that if you are just using the electric element (burner OFF) and it gets too cold, the heat exchanger fans will just run indefinitely - there are not enough BTU's generated by the electric element to raise the temp inside the coach. That is opposite of your experience.
1) Verify the Water Heater breaker has not tripped - the green light being ON at the switch (12v DC relay circuit) does not mean the electric element has AC power.
2) Verify the green light comes on when you turn on the electric switch for the AH. If it doesn't your electric element will not be energized - get back to me as I had that problem and can tell you where to look for the fix.
3) Check the thermostat fuses - I think there's one in the bathroom panel.
4) To see if you are generating hot water with the electric element, try shutting both electric and burner switches off, let the system cool down, then turn on your electric element and see if you get hot water (from the faucet) after a half hour or so. Alternately, I noticed when the electric element gets the water up to temp you can hear it "sizzling" via the AH exhaust pipe.
If the water is in fact heating, and all the other checks above are normal, from the symptoms you described, I might first suspect there is a thermostat or thermostat wiring issue.
FWIW, we live aboard now, but find the fireplace is a fantastic heating alternative. It has its own thermostat and for temps down into the mid 30's we heat the entire coach pretty comfortably just with that. Our fireplace is located midship. If you have one, it might be a good backup and probably uses the same amount of juice as the AH electric element. Of course that won't help keeping the wet bay above freezing.