Ignition Solenoid

[brobox]

craigav, I had the same thoughts about the batteries. Entegra is known for installing bottom of the food chain batteries that have caused more than one head scratcher on almost new coaches. Easy enough to have someone hold a voltmeter on the solenoid while someone turns the key. There would be a quick indication of what the batteries are doing under a load and temperature.

[CRV2]

Originally Posted by brobox

craigav, I had the same thoughts about the batteries. Entegra is known for installing bottom of the food chain batteries that have caused more than head scratcher on almost new coaches. Easy enough to have someone hold a voltmeter on the solenoid while someone turns the key. There would be a quick indication of what the batteries are doing under a load and temperature.

Indeed it certainly could be with the batteries, I have seen some batteries that had enough power to start the engine but at a lower voltage than what better batteries voltage would be under the same scenario.

If I was to check the system, I would likely do exactly what you said however I would prefer to have two voltage meters, one on the battery side of the solenoid and another meter on the trigger connection of the relay. I would expect to find the battery side of the relay shows low voltage during the process, likely less than 12v (or close) and no power to the trigger connection, and then with a little time the 12v side of the relay comes up to ~13v or more, followed by the connection to turn on the relay a second or two after that.

If the batteries can't maintain something close to 12v or more during the initial startup period of time (while the engine preheaters are on), then it is certainly possible that once the heaters turn off that the voltage becomes high enough and stable enough for the computer to then engage the alternator and the system relay(s). In fact, if the OP was to charge the batteries fully prior to starting in the cold temps, and especially with a strong enough charger on them (one that could also boost the batteries during the startup) then it wouldn't surprise me if the delay no longer occurred (or if new batteries were installed). ~CA

[RV Wanderers]

Thanks for all of the inputs. I don’t have anyone with me to crank the Eng while I take meter readings. So for now, I’ll press on as I stated and be patient. Not really looking to spend a couple hundred $$$ on chassis batteries right now.

[CRV2]

Originally Posted by RV Wanderers

Thanks for all of the inputs. I don’t have anyone with me to crank the Eng while I take meter readings. So for now, I’ll press on as I stated and be patient. Not really looking to spend a couple hundred $$$ on chassis batteries right now.

That is what I would likely do as well. I don't know on your motorhome's setup, but I suspect that your Entegra's coach generator starts off of the coach batteries and once it is running, that generator would charge both the coach and chassis batteries, which if so would provide you a safety net so to speak in case you ever find the chassis batteries too weak to even start the big engine.

FYI, my older Jayco (Ford E450) has a switch you have to push in on the dash to allow the coach generator to provide power to chassis battery(s) in order to charge\start the main engine (if the chassis battery is too low or dead). I am not sure about better setups though like you own, likely the system has this ability already setup without the need of an "emergency\auxiliary" start switch on the dash. In any case, now may be a good time to determine how that is setup on yours as if the chassis batteries are weak and it gets even colder, knowing how to use the coach generator to boost the main engine starting batteries would be good to know and that knowledge certainly could be your friend. ~CA

[Turbojack]

As mentioned above. Try with the battery boost switch and see what happens. Quick easy 1 person test.

[RV Wanderers]

More info…

Coach on 50amp shore pwr for over 1 week; house battery show 13.5V.

- Outside temp 49F
- Ignition key in the OFF position, both chassis batteries show 12.75V.
- 12.75V at the solenoid in the front drivers compt.
- Unable to get voltage at the chassis batteries or solenoid while starting.
- Turn key with using “battery boost” switch, still no dash fan control, hyd leveler panel pwr or step pwr.
- Key turned, engine NOT cranked, and dash fan, jack panel and steps work after approx 4 1/2 minutes.

Should I be seeing more than 12.75V on chassis batteries?

Thanks again for all of the input, suggestions and etc. It is greatly appreciated.

[wolfe10]

Answers in SOLID LETTER CAPS

Originally Posted by RV Wanderers

More info…


- 12.75V at the solenoid in the front drivers compt. ASSUME THIS WAS ON ONLY ONE OF THE LARGE LUGS ON THE SOLENOID (YES, IF THIS IS THE IGNITION SOLENOID).




- Unable to get voltage at the chassis batteries or solenoid while starting. PLEASE EXPLAIN-- WAS THERE NONE OR YOU JUST WEREN'T ABLE TO GET TO THEM TO CHECK.





- Key turned, engine NOT cranked, and dash fan, jack panel and steps work after approx 4 1/2 minutes. THAT WOULD INDICATE THAT THE IGNITION SOLENOID IS WORKING, AS THOSE THINGS THAT ONLY WORK WITH THE IGNITION ON ARE WORKING. WOULD BE USEFUL TO KNOW VOLTAGE ON THE OTHER LARGE LUG OF THE IGNITION SOLENOID (THE LUG THAT READ ZERO WHEN THE IGNITION WAS OFF).

Should I be seeing more than 12.75V on chassis batteries? NO, THAT IS JUST FINE.

[RV Wanderers]

Yes the bottom large lug on the solenoid.