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Old 06-01-2017, 06:27 PM   #1
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Induction cook top

I have a 2013 Anthem and want to replace the electric cook top with a flush mounted induction cook top. I called Entegra parts and told them that I wanted to get a price for the induction cook tops that are installed in the newer coaches. I was told that it was not recommended to do this, why I don't know. Does anybody know a vendor where I could buy one.

Larry
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:39 PM   #2
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The manufacturer in my 2015 is TrueInduction. It a 2 burner induction unit, 120 VAC and 1800 watts total for the whole unit. Cost new is ~ $400. You need a 120 VAC dedicated line that can provide 1800 watts continuous. I see no reason that you could not add it if you have a supply line that can handle that amperage. That is a dedicated line of 120 VAC that is rated for 1800 watts and a 15 amp circuit breaker.

I am having my old unit (which never worked well) replaced with a new identical True Induction unit. I am told that the unit is held in place with a bead of silicone and swapping is a simple prying up and new caulking and it is a simple unplug/plug transfer. That is what I have been told. By next Thursday I will know exactly what is involved.

Gary
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:45 PM   #3
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So Newmar wouldn't explain why it's not recommended? I'd want to find out their reasoning before getting one.

You didn't mention dimensions of the space, or what's below the counter. Induction cooktops work by a strong magnetic field. If something magnetic is close by, it could be an issue.
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Old 06-01-2017, 06:56 PM   #4
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It's been done, I believe it was hogdriver that did a "how to" post on it. He bought his on Amazon. You do have to cut the counter top for it to fit and that is a messy job....lots of dust.

I found one of Dave's post about installing the induction http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/anth...ml#post2409493
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Old 06-01-2017, 07:47 PM   #5
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Before you invest in the Induction

You might want to do some due diligence before changing over to an induction cooktop. We have the Furrion Induction in our Anthem and we are very unhappy with the performance. Actually had the cooktop replaced with no difference in performance. Before everyone jumps on the "you have to have the right cookware" bandwagon we have tried several leading makers of Induction Cookware.

The problem we are experiencing is that only the center 4 inches or so of the pan really heats. Here is a pic of one of four pans we have tried.

Click image for larger version

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We are now considering changing over to the Electric Cooktop that Newmar uses (Kenynon ?). We may also look at the Induction Cooktop being used in the Newmar as well to see if it performs any better. As a temporary solution we purchased a flat plate called a diffuser and while inconvenient that is helping even out the heat.

The cooktop Entegra and Newmar uses are not expensive. Entegra would be the last place I'd purchase one from as their part prices are high.
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Old 06-01-2017, 07:48 PM   #6
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Probably a silly question as it would involve a significant desire. But, has anyone ever managed to add a 220/240V cooktop?

-Matt
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Old 06-01-2017, 07:52 PM   #7
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Jim, it's really a shame to be limited to a 120V cooktop, with 220/240V I'd spring for a nice Wolf. I'm pretty sure that would get the job done.

-Matt
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Old 06-01-2017, 08:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
So Newmar wouldn't explain why it's not recommended? I'd want to find out their reasoning before getting one.

You didn't mention dimensions of the space, or what's below the counter. Induction cooktops work by a strong magnetic field. If something magnetic is close by, it could be an issue.

The OP mentioned that it was in an Entegra. Not a Newmar.
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Old 06-01-2017, 08:23 PM   #9
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I agree on the 220V. In fact many folks with Induction at home where 220 is viable and with something on the order of the Wolf do experience better performance.

I am sure you could split the phases in the coach and run 220V by using the neutral line and picking up 115 from another breaker (maybe use split mini breakers). Not the Hoyle approach, but I have seen worse wiring. Might be something to consider, but for now we will just put up with the performance.

Might be something worth bring up during one of Pat Carrols sessions at the Rallies?
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Old 06-01-2017, 08:25 PM   #10
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Wolf in Allegro Bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt D View Post
Jim, it's really a shame to be limited to a 120V cooktop, with 220/240V I'd spring for a nice Wolf. I'm pretty sure that would get the job done.

-Matt
Our friends have a 220v Wolf induction in a 2015 Allegro bus. Being all electric is not all fun; they have to run the generator a lot if they only have 30A service.
We travel with them a lot and it seems their generator is always running.

Just sayin'
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Old 06-01-2017, 08:31 PM   #11
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Matt

Our coaches are specifically designed to have nothing but 120 VAC anywhere in the coach. I see no reason that a skilled electrician could not design a 240 based system but I would not do it

(Jim) MoHoGo.... when I said above that our original induction never worked a damn, that is exactly what I got with it. We bought 2 sets of high quality / expensive induction specific pots and they are strongly magnetic. There is nothing wrong with the cookware. To convince TrueInduction suppliers that we had a problem, I bought a single 1800 watt burner induction stand alone unit from Sams for ~ $80, and I had to do a series of videos comparing my pots trying to boil 4 cups of water in a pan and bring it to a rolling boil. It was plugged into the power plug directly above the sink in our 44B. The $80 Duxtop could do it in 7 minutes easy and the boil was across the entire bottom of the pan. Then I used the right burner of the OEM installed unit from the factory on full power ("10") same temp water and 4 cups and it could not do a rolling boil by 21 minutes when I got tired of waiting. Now, interestingly, your pic and my videos looked exactly the same with the OEM unit. It got close to boiling only near the center like there are 2 concentric magnets, but only the inner one was active. Then we did the same test with the left burner and got the same result..... at 21 minutes, no rolling boil, and only the inner ring showing it was close to boiling.

I had the units on "power mode", not temp mode, and I am sure you understand the difference. If it is in the temp mode then it heats to maintain a specific temperature, and examination of my videos showed what looked like my unit was turning itself on and off to maintain a sub rolling boil....but the unit was in full blast power mode. It was as though the unit was wired so that it was always in temp mode and never in power mode. I can't prove it, but that was the behavior it was showing. The single 1800 watt, single burner unit ran "rings around" the OEM unit. I had my watch in "stop-watch mode" so you could not accuse me of anything untoward and I recorded it all.... I did research for a career... the unit was a turkey. And since my coach was 2 months past my 2 year warranty, I was forced to provide all sorts of justification, and the final resolution was that Entegra refused to pay for the swap (next week at NiRVC) ( supposedly ~ 45 minutes labor ( does that seem a little bit chitsey to you too???)) and the OEM agreed to send me a new unit free, and I need to send the old one back.

If it doesn't work as well as the $80 Duxtop, I will throw it out and find something that does work the way it is supposed to. We have friends who complain of the exact opposite.... that their inductions are quite hot and they had to get used to not burning things..... so I know some units MUST WORK! But not our original unit. We shall see....

Gary
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Old 06-01-2017, 08:44 PM   #12
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I ordered a True Induction, the same unit originally installed in Entegras, from Amazon. I had it installed in Bend(I'm only allowed to drill small holes on the coach and cutting into the countertop was not even considered) and it works just fine. DW says it boils water like a champ. She was initially confused by the fact that she couldn't turn both burners on 10 but quickly adjusted. I offered to get her another single burner but she didn't see any need for it.
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Old 06-01-2017, 08:47 PM   #13
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My fingers are crossed 😁 👍

Gary
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:33 PM   #14
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Gary, Krivanj mentions the reason I was thinking about this.. Tiffin has aleady done this and their electrical system is virtually identical to an Entegra, except the power source for the cooktop.

As far as 240V to the coach, well it depends.. we actually have 240V to the Transfer Switch, that is from our X (L1) & Y (L2) conductors from the 50A shore power. We never see 240V because it arrives in two separate 120V conductors 180 degrees out of phase and is not combined.

All that would be required to power a 240V cooktop, Summit (ugh), Fagor, Wolf or otherwise, would be to provide an appropriately sized load conductors and breakers to support a 30A service to both L1 & L2. Then, tie the conductors, neutral, and ground back into a 14-50R 3 pole 4 wire grounding receptacle. Plug in the cooktop and you're good to go.

Essentially we already have about 80% of what is needed. The problem I expect will be snaking the wire. Solving the last 20% is the toughest. There is another way to solve the conductor issue, but I'm going to do some research before I mention that idea.

-Matt
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