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Old 12-30-2016, 08:45 AM   #1
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Installing a battery charge line on Anthem

After two years of pulling my 2013 Honda CR-V successfully, often 2 or 3 days of 8 hours pulling, with no problems with battery state of charge, within the past 2 months (2 trips to Indiana), my Honda battery has been drained in less than 8 hours every day, so dead that the dash lights didn't come on after 5 or 6 hours of travel. Quickly, Demco baseplate, Demco diode system for Honda tail lights, Demco pigtail back to Honda. However, nothing about the lighting system should mix with the Honda battery and ignition. Its all isolated. And all "extra" loads removed from Honda (but the fuse not removed) and this has worked for 2 years.... but now doesn't work. I posted problem to this forum and everyone said replace battery. However, the battery was 12 months old, and was computer tested 3 times and each time, battery, alternator, and starter all tested OK.

This is for the archive.....

So, decided to install a charge line. Saw mention of a kit (LSL Products "Toad Charge System, ~ $90.00). Has in line 15 amp circuit breaker on coach side, heavy cable to Honda, and Charge Controller on the Honda battery side which shows when it is connected, when it is charging, and if there are any wiring problems. However, was not particularly happy with heavy duty #12 2-conductor wire that was to be used to span from Anthem to Honda batteries, and didn't like the big clunky wire connectors to the Anthem and Honda sides of the circuit breakers. So looked into a way to deal with it. In carefully examining all the connections, I found two loose wires in the connectors and pigtail of my system. None seemed to be shorted and don't see how they would discharge my battery but the connections were poor (loose, corroded). Also, the female Pollak connectors on the Demco cable on both ends and the metal connector on the Honda side were substantially rusted and degraded. So, decided to replace the cable with a new 7 blade Pollak to 6 pin RV connector pigtail cable. and replace the bad connectors the cable went the on the Honda side. Also, the new version of the Demco cable is now injected with a waterproof sealant into both connector at the end of the cable to prevent water intrusion (a big improvement).

What I learned is that there is a "trailer battery charge line" in our Spartan chassis. The line is fused and the fuse is in the circular fuse box in the same compartment as the fuel filter and DEF tank. The trailer battery charge line is the only 30A fuse in there. It appears that there is a 14 gauge wire from there to the 7 blade Pollak plug on the back of our coaches. It is pin 4 on the 7 blade Pollak connector. From there, the +12V line is connected to the Honda 6 pin Pollak connector but was not connected to the Honda battery in the initial set up. So, I simply added a #12 red wire from the Honda Pollak up to near the battery connector where I installed the LSL Charge controller and grounded everything to the Honda frame. This meant that I didn't need the 2 conductor #12 cable from the Honda to the Anthem (using the pig tail cable instead). Also, was not happy with the clunky connectors (male and female pairs) that LSL had in their design.... looked like a problem waiting to happen.

The Anthem side is fused in the fuse box and the Honda side is fused (circuit breaker) in the in-line charge controller.

Gary
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Old 12-30-2016, 09:00 AM   #2
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here is a fail safe uncomplicated cheap way to add charge wire
most Class A have a 7 pole.it has a charge wire in it. simply run a 10/12 gauge
wire from the 7 pole to your toad battery with a circuit breaker on the toad end
with a quick connect. some choose a one way diode in the unlikely case of charge back to MH .I never use a diode
I have used this system several times on SRX Cadillac ford Edge ford f150
Suzuki Gv etc cheap easy and works great

the lsl charge controller is not needed at 75$
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Old 12-30-2016, 09:08 AM   #3
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Which is using different words to describe exactly what I did. (I threw away 3/4 of the stuff that I bought from LSL as unnecessary). The only real part that I used was the charge controller module as it shows me that the connections are good, and when the system is charging.

Gary
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2019 Cornerstone 45B, X15-605hp, Imperial, Spartan K3,
2013 Honda CR-V toad, Demco Excali-Bar II,
Demco Baseplate, Demco Toad Light system, 73 de W5FI
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Old 12-30-2016, 09:09 AM   #4
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Gary, I've been pulling a similar MDX for 12 years and like you had problems the 1st 3 or 4 years with the battery going dead. Had to pull a fuse, and also made sure I started it at least every 5 hours, or the battery would go dead even with the fuse pulled.

When I had to replace the battery the 1st time got one with more CCA than the OEM battery and that solved the problem. With the better battery now I never have to pull the fuse and can go up to the max allowed 8 hours without starting the toad to charge the battery. I just have to make sure the A/C and navigation screen is off.

Do you know the CCA of the battery you are using? Perhaps in the CRV you may be limited by size to replacing with one with more CCA.
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Old 12-30-2016, 09:12 AM   #5
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Thanks Gary. Don't have this problem but it's great info. I occasionally work on this kind of stuff, so this is good to know.
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Old 12-30-2016, 09:56 AM   #6
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For archival purposes, here is the pin out diagram of the 7 blade Pollak connector on the back of our coaches....

This also shows the pin outs if you use a 7 pin to 6 pin cable from the Entegra to the toad...

Gary
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Pollak 7 blade connector on Anthem.pdf (212.0 KB, 49 views)
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2019 Cornerstone 45B, X15-605hp, Imperial, Spartan K3,
2013 Honda CR-V toad, Demco Excali-Bar II,
Demco Baseplate, Demco Toad Light system, 73 de W5FI
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Old 12-30-2016, 01:02 PM   #7
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Gary, do you have a 4 pin or a six pin plug for your toad? If you already have the 6 pin, do as Select55 suggested. It is the easiest and cheapest way to go. If you only have a 4 pin, you can convert to a 6 pin, or add another wire and single plug. Easy to do, just one more plug to connect. You can wire tie the new wire to the umbilical cord and you won't even know it's there.
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