I cannot take credit for this as Pat B posted the outside mounts before. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/tell...ml#post1786712
I did clean up a few things as the TV when pulled out did not look factory and kind of tacky. Hopefully it may help some others with their install.
The photo links are the best I can do for now. Sorry about that. I hope they all linked OK.
2013 and pre-mid year 2014, before the $3,600 upgrade fee take a
Swivel TV Bracket | Wall Mount w/ Articulating Arm
After the upgrade to the 40" TV outside TV takes a Crimson Articulating 13"- 42" Flat Panel TV Mount - AU42
The instruction that come with the mount are excellent and easy to follow. Mounted next to factory holes. https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ivo4lfdr7...22142.jpg?dl=0
Remove the TV with the 6 silver screws, 3 on each side of the TV and lay the TV face down. (I painted the screws black after the photos were taken) Remove the factory bracket and dispose of it. Photo 1 and 2.
Install the new bracket plate using the same screws that were on the TV. After discussing with Swinster we drilled holes 1 inch towards the inside from the factory holes for the swing arm to mount. It centers the TV better with the opening and helps clear the door strut. I also insulated behind the TV with aircraft cockpit insulation.
Before mounting the TV I added 90 degree connections to the ports in the TV to take the strain off the cables when pulling the TV out. Connections needed, 90 coax connector, video plug (yellow) one 90 degree RCA stereo plug, HDMI 90. All of these are available online, but I caught one of the Radio Shacks going out of business and paid 30 cent on the $. Photo 3
After the TV was hung I didn't like the unfinished look. Photo 4
I added wire wrap to the bright yellow 110V factory wires and painted the back of the cabinet brace and plug outlet boxes. Photo 5
The power cord and main HDMI cable were attached to the cabinet braces with wire clamps. Photo 6
Next add a 3ft HDMI extension using an HDMI coupling after
the cable clamp. If the TV gets pulled out to far, the main HDMI cable that goes into the basement will not be damage, it is hard to replace. Photo 7
To tighten up the left side of the screen for traveling I added a couple of scraps of insulation with spray adhesive, to the door where it just hits the corners of the TV. Phttps://www.dropbox.com/s/5eqhiviy2go300y/2015-05-14%2012.15.19.jpg?dl=0hoto 8.
Job took about 30 minutes by myself.
If anyone needs a pre mid 2014 pre drilled stainless steel plate with machined nut plates and articulating arm new in the box, PM me. Yep, I put the wrong one together first.