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Old 02-04-2021, 01:18 PM   #1
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Low Voltage to Aqua Hot

Our Aqua Hot on our 2016 Aspire has been great till about two weeks ago when there is low voltage to the control board. Checked and yes the voltage is in mil volts. Checked fuse and it was good. So ran an separate line to chassis batteries and unit works great. Checked voltage on disconnected wiring and 13.4 volts reconnected and again zero. Disconnected ground wire and used temporary ground still zero. So with no load voltage is good add minimal load goes to zero. So I am thinking poor connection at the fuse block, does anyone have any thoughts? Coach is sitting in the driveway plugged in so l have a month or more to correct the problem and Aqua Hot is operational if we get a drop in temperature, however winter is almost over here in south Texas.
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Old 02-04-2021, 04:18 PM   #2
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Your test to the chassis battery also bypasses the circuit breaker above the drivers seat. Have you checked it? Connections tight?
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Old 02-04-2021, 05:02 PM   #3
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had this on my 16. You can have 13 volts on a wire but no amperage (broken wire).
If its like mine it had two power connections. One is main power and a remote power (turns of with sales man switch). mine was the remote power. I just made a jumper. Never used sales man switch. I did fined broken wire years later. Battery acid rotted it.
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Old 02-05-2021, 04:45 AM   #4
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Larry looks like you need to run that circuit back until you find the problem. Glad you have a work around until you find the problem.
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Old 02-06-2021, 08:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolar01 View Post
Checked voltage on disconnected wiring and 13.4 volts reconnected and again zero. Disconnected ground wire and used temporary ground still zero. So with no load voltage is good add minimal load goes to zero.
Classic symptom of a high resistance connection somewhere in the 12v supply wiring. I usually see these caused by corrosion but could be a bad crimp, partially broken wire, loose connection, etc. Even something within the AH before it gets to the control board.

This is the propane AH correct? 400lp or 375lp?

I had a 375lp on my '13 and that unit had the electronics exposed to the weather. There is a bank of fuses inside, wouldn't be surprised to find corrosion there. I haven't seen a 400lp but I expect it's better.

I believe the AH is fed from a fuse panel in the electronics bay forward of the left front wheel. You can test integrity at any point in the feed by putting a load on it like an incandescent 12v light bulb.
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Old 02-06-2021, 06:07 PM   #6
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Yes, the unit is a propane fired unit (LP400), the fusing is in front driver side compartment and the wiring is crammed together at the fuse connection and thatís where I think the bad connection is. I am reluctantly pull it apart to search for problem. Current thinking is to run a new ground and 12 volt line with a inline fuse, taking power from the connection of power to the slid relays. Connecting at the Aqua Hot control board auxiliary 12 volt connection.
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Old 02-07-2021, 08:34 AM   #7
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Yes, the unit is a propane fired unit (LP400), the fusing is in front driver side compartment and the wiring is crammed together at the fuse connection and thatís where I think the bad connection is. I am reluctantly pull it apart to search for problem. Current thinking is to run a new ground and 12 volt line with a inline fuse, taking power from the connection of power to the slid relays. Connecting at the Aqua Hot control board auxiliary 12 volt connection.
Linked below is a photo of where I tapped power for the electric cargo door latches I added, using the hot side (bottom) of the solenoid. I added a 6 position fuse block for future projects but you just need an inline fuse.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SHWBzPqnPTdo1WGi7

You probably shouldn't need to run a ground as I think you already established the existing ground is ok.

Make sure to use wire heavy enough for the application and take into account the length of the run, mine has a 25 amp fuse but yours may be different. What Entegra used is fine if you can determine the gauge.

The fun part will be routing around the wheel well. Since it will be exposed to the elements use split loom or something to protect the wire, you may also want to use tinned wire to protect against corrosion should the insulation get nicked.

Finally, before you do all that, if your setup is like mine, it may not be as difficult as you think to take a look behind that fuse block. If you take the top off the lower wiring box like I have done in the photo you'll have more wiggle room. If that's where the problem is it should be obvious.
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Old 02-07-2021, 12:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voltdoc View Post
Linked below is a photo of where I tapped power for the electric cargo door latches I added, using the hot side (bottom) of the solenoid. I added a 6 position fuse block for future projects but you just need an inline fuse.



https://photos.app.goo.gl/SHWBzPqnPTdo1WGi7



You probably shouldn't need to run a ground as I think you already established the existing ground is ok.



Make sure to use wire heavy enough for the application and take into account the length of the run, mine has a 25 amp fuse but yours may be different. What Entegra used is fine if you can determine the gauge.



The fun part will be routing around the wheel well. Since it will be exposed to the elements use split loom or something to protect the wire, you may also want to use tinned wire to protect against corrosion should the insulation get nicked.



Finally, before you do all that, if your setup is like mine, it may not be as difficult as you think to take a look behind that fuse block. If you take the top off the lower wiring box like I have done in the photo you'll have more wiggle room. If that's where the problem is it should be obvious.


Thanks, may get brave enough to look at the back of the fuse panel, based on your comments. Purchased stranded 8 gage wire to jumper the 12 volts, will run additional ground as already have the wire. Using 1/2Ē split loom conduit.
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