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Old 03-06-2021, 09:14 AM   #1
OWV
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Macerator Hose Mods

Good afternoon,

Our macerator hose sprang a leak, fortunately at the top where it fits through the floor of the macerator hose storage compartment so it should be relatively easy to repair. But, the leak prompted me to look on iRV2 and when I did I found a thread titled Macerator Hose which we started back in June 2018. I also found another thread titled Macerator Hose Mod going back to Feb 2019. There were two types of mods

1. One posted by Balladeer that connected to the macerator in the wetbay, and
2. One posted by Bill which connected to the slinky outlet under the coach.

I tried to include pictures but they wouldn't paste in this message when I tried to copy them.


Unfortunately, the threads are closed and wonít accept any new posts so I am starting this new thread in order to ask some questions about the 2 types of mods.

First, now that 2-3 years have passed since the earlier threads were started, does anyone have any comments on either of the two types of mods? Have any of you who installed either of the two mods experienced any problems with damage or breaking to the piping underneath the coach?

Obviously the 3rd mod is going to be the easiest to make, but requires a slinky hose, whereas the other two would allow me to still use the macerator hose.

Apparently one of the good things about either type of mod is that we can leave the gray tank valve open, but I assume for the 2 mods that use the macerator hose, we would need to turn on the macerator pump to dump the black tank?

I guess my biggest question with Balladeer's mod is how/where did you connect to the macerator piping in the wetbay and did you have to do anything to by-pass the existing plumbing that runs up to the macerator hose compartment? I saw the picture Balladeer included with his post, but I really couldnít tell how/where the connection in the wetbay was made.

I am leaning toward Balladeer's mod because I can still use the macerator hose and I really donít want to to carry a long section of slinky hose, although a small section might be good for when I use a dump station or have someone come and pump us out.

Thanks for any help any of you might be willing to share, particularly pictures of how the connections are made in the wetbay.

Regards,
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Old 03-06-2021, 09:47 AM   #2
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What are you looking to accomplish? What is your goal?
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Old 03-06-2021, 10:55 AM   #3
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Post Macerator discharge modification

OWV,
I have attached the 3 pictures that were in my original post for the modification.
Inside the wet bay you need to cut the macerator discharge line and put a 90 deg elbow
down through the deck. Use the minimum length of pipe to reach underneath and then another 90 deg elbow to angle to the outside of the coach.
When you have done this , then I attached the cam-lock fittings as shown.
I modified the hose with the clear section to observe when the tank flush has been completely cleared. (usually about 3 cycles to rinse the tank completely clean).

The mod took me about 45 minutes to accomplish. (Not counting time to obtain the parts).

I store the hose in the drivers side of the bay forward of the electrical bay so it is handy and a spare length of hose in the macerator bay in case of an above average of distance to the park sewer. (rarely used). On site I open the grey tank until about the last 12 hours and then close it to have sufficient grey water to rinse the hose after emptying the black tank.

I did this mod about 4 years ago and have never had a problem. If done correctly, the line is actually higher off the ground than the aqua hot exhaust and closer to the driver wheels,
so should be safe. No regrets.

Any questions please feel free to ask.

Fair winds and downhill grades...The Balladeer
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Old 03-06-2021, 11:48 AM   #4
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Macerator mod

I did same type mod only mine comes out farther back in the wet bay and is tight against floor of wet bay underneath.
The 3/4 inch valve with blue handle is there so I can open it for a few seconds after dumping tanks and break the vacuum allowing hose to drain.
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Old 03-08-2021, 08:24 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buddy110 View Post
What are you looking to accomplish? What is your goal?
Good question, Bruce. Since our macerator hose sprang a leak I would like something that will reduce the wear and tear when pushing the hose through the hole in the bottom of the macerator hose compartment and back up. I would also like the ability to leave the gray water tank valve open so it is always draining, particularly on wash days. I like the ability to easily and quickly disconnect the hoses, particularly a slinky for those times, like at Camp Entegra when I need to dump at the dump station. And, I guess while I am at it I would like to be able to open the dump valves from inside the coach, although I don't know what good that does me if I also can't turn on the macerator pump from inside the coach.

Regards,
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Old 03-08-2021, 08:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OWV View Post
Good question, Bruce. Since our macerator hose sprang a leak I would like something that will reduce the wear and tear when pushing the hose through the hole in the bottom of the macerator hose compartment and back up. I would also like the ability to leave the gray water tank valve open so it is always draining, particularly on wash days. I like the ability to easily and quickly disconnect the hoses, particularly a slinky for those times, like at Camp Entegra when I need to dump at the dump station. And, I guess while I am at it I would like to be able to open the dump valves from inside the coach, although I don't know what good that does me if I also can't turn on the macerator pump from inside the coach.

Regards,
Makes sense. However, with my hose running through the port the gray tank drains fine. If yours is not, try running the macerator for a few seconds to get a suction going. Then it should drain fine
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Old 03-08-2021, 08:43 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balladeer View Post
OWV,
I have attached the 3 pictures that were in my original post for the modification.
Inside the wet bay you need to cut the macerator discharge line and put a 90 deg elbow
down through the deck. Use the minimum length of pipe to reach underneath and then another 90 deg elbow to angle to the outside of the coach.
When you have done this , then I attached the cam-lock fittings as shown.
I modified the hose with the clear section to observe when the tank flush has been completely cleared. (usually about 3 cycles to rinse the tank completely clean).

The mod took me about 45 minutes to accomplish. (Not counting time to obtain the parts).

I store the hose in the drivers side of the bay forward of the electrical bay so it is handy and a spare length of hose in the macerator bay in case of an above average of distance to the park sewer. (rarely used). On site I open the grey tank until about the last 12 hours and then close it to have sufficient grey water to rinse the hose after emptying the black tank.

I did this mod about 4 years ago and have never had a problem. If done correctly, the line is actually higher off the ground than the aqua hot exhaust and closer to the driver wheels,
so should be safe. No regrets.

Any questions please feel free to ask.

Fair winds and downhill grades...The Balladeer
Thanks, Gregg and Rollin101. I guess I need to get into the WetBay and see exactly where to cut the macerator discharge line. Did you use any kind of glue to connect the piping starting with the 90 deg elbow at the macerator discharge? Also, did you have to cap the bare end of the discharge line downstream of where you made the cut? At the connection point on the side of the coach, can that be configured so I could connect either the macerator hose or a small section of slinky hose to dump at a dump station? I will keep looking at your pictures and try to understand exactly what you did. In the meantime, thank you for taking the time to respond.

Regards,
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Old 03-08-2021, 09:14 AM   #8
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Macerator Hose Mods

OWV,

Questions answered.
1. Just used standard abs pipe and ABS glue.

2. After cutting the ABS pipe out of the macerator just removed the section into the existing hose bay. it is no longer needed after the modification. My hose storage area is just used as a place to store my second section of macerator hose.

3. You would have to figure out an adaptor from the cam-lock to the fitting to accommodate a slinky hose fitting. I will submit that, in 5 years, I have never seen it necessary to do this. In fact, thinking back, I have never used a slinky although I carry one just in case.

I have never tried it, but I am not sure that the slinky discharge will accommodate the use of the macerator pump.

Also, the small bracket holding the end of the discharge line at the camlock fitting was purchased through Entegra parts. (If they still have it available)

...Gregg
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Old 03-08-2021, 04:53 PM   #9
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I've been working in that area of the wet bay recently and offer one suggestion. In my case, my hose reel has stopped working and I've discovered that it's a little tight getting it out of the wet bay. Be careful that as you add the plumbing necessary for the mod, you don't block access to remove and replace the hose reel.

Take care,
Stu
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Old 03-08-2021, 05:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balladeer View Post
OWV,

Questions answered.
1. Just used standard abs pipe and ABS glue.

2. After cutting the ABS pipe out of the macerator just removed the section into the existing hose bay. it is no longer needed after the modification. My hose storage area is just used as a place to store my second section of macerator hose.

3. You would have to figure out an adaptor from the cam-lock to the fitting to accommodate a slinky hose fitting. I will submit that, in 5 years, I have never seen it necessary to do this. In fact, thinking back, I have never used a slinky although I carry one just in case.

I have never tried it, but I am not sure that the slinky discharge will accommodate the use of the macerator pump.

Also, the small bracket holding the end of the discharge line at the camlock fitting was purchased through Entegra parts. (If they still have it available)

...Gregg
Thanks, Gregg,

As I mentioned in a previous post, this all got started because my existing macerator hose developed cracks and catastrophic failure. Unfortunately, the way the end is constructed, there is no way to cut off the damaged part and install back into the original end of the hose. When I looked at your picture 3 I was wondering what kind of end you had. Was it the original end, or did you modify it and, if you did, what parts did you use? I ask because I am wondering if I can fabricate a new end for the hose that I can marry up to the existing hose. Hope that makes a sense,

Regards,
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Old 03-08-2021, 07:05 PM   #11
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Macerator hose mod

OWV,

3 pics attached.

Fixed male camlock on end of line from macerator with female camlock cap with clip to secure during travel.
Put female cap on end of new macerator hose to clear plastic section then plastic nipple to end of new hose..
I tapped hose clamps to avoid cuts/scratches etc.
On the other end of the hose I put male camlock and on grey sewer hose head put another female camlock.
My secondary hose is rigged the same way.
Just a mater of seconds to connect and disconnect and also makes it easier to screw the head into the park discharge connection then camlock the hose to the head.

This whole project started because original hose cracked during discharge (yuk) at campground. The new jacket protected hoses were then available.

Also to 777 driver. Yes a little tight in there but clear of hose reel by just dropping straight down after cutting original pipe.
(also as a maritime pilot (the other kind) we had the same saying (in your signature)over the exit door at the pilot station to read before boarding a ship in san Francisco Bay) ):

Best regards to all....The Balladeer
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