Community Forums

TXBart · 01-28-2014, 10:25 AM

Here is part of an email I sent CS this morning.

My Anthem is in my driveway. We are experiencing nighttime lows in the high teens to mid twenties to I set Zones 1 and 3 on "Gas" at 45 degrees and turned set basement heat about 25% from the bottom of the range. Zone 2 is off. Burner is on.

When I went out this morning outside temperature was still in the low 20s. Zone 1 and 3 temperatures were high 40s, basement was 56 (I have a remote temperature sensor) and Zone 2 (which is off) was 66.

We camped in the northwest last fall in temps to the mid teens and remained at one park for 3 weeks with heat on the entire time. We tried various settings to get the floors to feel warm, I would say the best they got was "not cold" even with Zone 2 set at 85 and could not say that about the entire floor.

stevedenesha · 01-28-2014, 10:54 AM

So what is the question you have for CS?

TXBart · 01-28-2014, 01:08 PM

Oops, kinda forgot that. The floor was icy cold. Obviously taking temps from an inappropriate spot. No wonder that it doesn't heat the floor very well even when it is set to 85; it gets to 85 at that spot but not the floor.

Asking them to offer a solution.

loisjop · 01-28-2014, 01:30 PM

Vance, are you sure you don't have a kinked hose like Dave and a couple of others have had for zone 2. Noel

TXBart · 01-28-2014, 01:53 PM

I'm not trying to heat Zone 2, I'm trying to prevent freezing. Zone 2 isn't turned on but is reading the highest temperature.

CS said a few coaches went out with the Zone 2 sensor too close to a Zone 1 register, it sounds like mine is one of those. I'm waiting to hear how to resolve it.

rogelling · 01-28-2014, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TXBart

I'm not trying to heat Zone 2, I'm trying to prevent freezing. Zone 2 isn't turned on but is reading the highest temperature.

CS said a few coaches went out with the Zone 2 sensor too close to a Zone 1 register, it sounds like mine is one of those. I'm waiting to hear how to resolve it.

I have the same situation. Here is a pic I think of the zone 2 sensor in the bedroom.

TXBart · 01-28-2014, 02:42 PM

Someone, seems like Dave Ladwig, had a similar issue and his Zone 2 sensor was near the fireplace in his DEQ and had to be moved.

DSL417 · 01-28-2014, 03:14 PM

Yes I did, and kudos to Corey, who had similar issue and showed me where the kink was.

Vance, make sure that when you turn to heat, using diesel and with the slide out, that the front heat exchanger in the coach (below the dash drawer is pushing warm air. Give it 5 minutes after you turn on for the fluid to circulate). If you're getting warm air there, you're probably good. If there is a kink anywhere, this blower will blow cold air, because the boiler fluid is not circulating. If not blowing warm air, give me a call...think you have my number.

And BTW, my tiles now run from downright toasty to tepid, depending where the hose runs under the tile (including the bedroom)...after PJ showed me where the pipes run. AND, Joyce called me two days later, just to make sure my floors were warm...she's a sweetie!

TXBart · 01-28-2014, 03:37 PM

My dash drawer gets so hot I get worried about the iPod I keep there.

I don't think my issue is flow in Zone 2, it is sensing for Zone 2. Which isn't to say I don't also have a kink or 2, maybe even in the coach.

Ray said some coaches left the factory with the Zone 2 sensor too close to a heat outlet which makes sense why our Zone 2 reads so much higher than it is set without really warming the floor, it's getting heat right out of an outlet where it is the hottest.

TXBart · 01-28-2014, 03:39 PM

From Ray:

More than likely, the zone 2 temperature sensor is getting heated by the register in the center of the unit. We had a few units that the temperature sensor for zone 2 was to close to the heat register and was registering that heat. I would suspect your unit is one of these units.

I have asked for the remedy. I'll post the reply.

DSL417 · 01-28-2014, 03:57 PM

FWIW, I set Zone 2 to 90...set the others to whatever I want. Thus far I have never seen the thermostat get to 90 in Zone 2, so the floor continues to get hot fluid. Using the electric heater on the AH boiler won't get the Zone 2 anywhere near 80, tough to get it to 70. But it does cause the boiler to operate, I think.

tvolk · 01-28-2014, 04:14 PM

My coach is currently inside my storage barn here in Michigan where we are seeing 10-15 below temps. I keep it plugged in with temps set at 50 in the coach and lowest setting in basement. I have diesel and electric switches set on .

Normal cold weather usage (when we are actually staying in it ) gets floor sort of warm when zone 2 temp is set 5-10 degrees higher than setting for zone 1 and 3,

While in my barn , not in use, This winter and last--My coach has been fine (not even close to freezing). This is a tribute to the insulation in the entegra.

All that said, my zone 2 would work much better if my coach was sitting in south Florida or Arizona right now!

voltdoc · 01-28-2014, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rogelling

I have the same situation. Here is a pic I think of the zone 2 sensor in the bedroom.

That looks like the mic for the alarm, the thermostat sensor has a diamond shape and if that's the rear bedroom, on my coach it's higher up on that same wall.

voltdoc · 01-28-2014, 05:18 PM

Another thing to keep in mind is that Zone 2 and Zone 1 use the exact same plumbing loop. Zone 2 is really just sort of a "virtual" zone. The only difference between Zone 1 and 2 is that Zone 1 turns on the fans in the 3 heat exchangers. Actually, I think this is very clever.

Point is when you run Zone 1 you are also heating your floors to a certain extent because the hot water is flowing thru all the same pipe as "virtual" Zone 2.

When Zone 1 is on, the fans in the 3 heat exchangers are on and of course extract more of that heat into the air inside the coach and let less of it go to heating the floor. When Zone 2 is on the hot water runs thru the same pipe and all three heat exchangers but the fans in the three heat exchangers remain off and more of the heat goes into the floor.

I know this because we had a kink in the PEX pipe inside our floor which was not accessible to repair without surgery. During the troubleshooting process and working with Joyce and team I got very familiar with the pipe and zone layout. Entegra of course stepped up and made it right after a trip back to Middlebury - fortunately no tiles needed to be ripped out.

Also FYI, remember the Aquahot (all models as far as I know) have only two circulator pumps. So where do the four zones come from? One of those pumps is for Zone 1 & 2 (salon) and the other is for the Zone 3 (bedroom) and basement.

Same "virtual zone" deal with the Zone 3/basement - when heat is called for on Zone 3 (bedroom) hot water flows thru the bedroom and basement heat exchangers but only the fans on the two bed/bath heat exchangers turn on. If the basement thermostat is on and calls for heat, hot water still flows thru the same bedroom and basement heat exchangers but only the fan on the basement heat exchanger turns on.

You would know right away if you have a kink - for example if you set Zone 1 to come on, you should feel heat at all three heat exchangers (mid coach, under kitchen sink, under dash) after several minutes (gas/diesel burner should be on). If you do have a kink, Zone 2 won't work either.

I have been having problems lately with the kitchen slide pinching the rubber hose for Zone 1/Zone 2 as it extends. I now have someone extend the slide while I guide the hose so it doesn't go where it shouldn't.

Just another observation. On our coach the bedroom floor has no heat in the floor. While you might think on casual observation that the salon and bath floors might just feel slightly warm to the touch, on a cold morning you will definitely appreciate how much warmer the heated part of the floors are compared to the unheated bedroom floor when you walk on them with bare feet.