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jestal · 01-11-2017, 06:02 PM

looks like the square drive shaft is taking some pretty good load when the bearing lets it drop down. the square edges of the shaft are pretty beat up.

if the slide alignment or something else is happening the "hog-wheel" would be heavily side loaded and tend to destroy the bearing as I doubt that ball bearing set is designed to take that much side loading.

Could the shaft to the other hog-wheel (at the front end) be disconnected or the drive pin sheared causing the slide to extend and retract from one wheel only causing the heavy side loading as the slide tends to cock to one side. Actually, looking at it I would make sure the broken bearing end is actually being driven. it looks more like the failed bearing end lost the shear pin and it was the wheel being driven by movement of the slide rather than the wheel driving the slide. If the broken end wheel was "idling" it would really cock the slide in the failed direction and break the bearing as it appears.

JMHO.

AspireDoug · 01-11-2017, 06:42 PM

I need to check the front gear. Good idea. I really don't think that will be the issue but could be.

jestal · 01-11-2017, 08:24 PM

Taking any bets?

My bet is that one end is not being driven and that is what is cocking the slide and causing the rear bearing to fail. Try turning the square drive tube with an adjustable wrench on both sides of the motor. The brake in the motor should hold it from turning I believe and that should tell you where the break in the drive connection is.

AspireDoug · 01-12-2017, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jestal

Taking any bets?

My bet is that one end is not being driven and that is what is cocking the slide and causing the rear bearing to fail. Try turning the square drive tube with an adjustable wrench on both sides of the motor. The brake in the motor should hold it from turning I believe and that should tell you where the break in the drive connection is.

You could be right. I plan to check that when I get home.

AspireDoug · 01-12-2017, 07:33 PM

All gears, electric motor and shafts are turning and look perfect. The slide moves evenly side to side and the gaps are correct looking from outside at the slide. I don't know, the rear of the slide looks low inside the basement (because the slide floor is hitting the jack shaft) but looking at the outside you can't see it.

Doug

jestal · 01-12-2017, 09:15 PM

win some loose some

so the big question is what caused the bearing to grenade??

AspireDoug · 01-13-2017, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jestal

win some loose some

so the big question is what caused the bearing to grenade??

That is one question and the other is why is the floor of the slide down on the jackshaft? Even with the bearing removed the slide should not be down on the jackshaft.

brobox · 01-13-2017, 06:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jestal

win some loose some

so the big question is what caused the bearing to grenade??

Watching the post closely, I am wondering if it was just a bad bearing to begin with? I also wondered where that bearing might have been made?

Misty123 · 01-13-2017, 07:59 AM

Doug are you sure the rollers are in place that the slide rolls on above the floor. Maybe I don't see it correctly, but I don't see how the slide could get down that low if the rollers are there.

AspireDoug · 01-13-2017, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Misty123

Doug are you sure the rollers are in place that the slide rolls on above the floor. Maybe I don't see it correctly, but I don't see how the slide could get down that low if the rollers are there.

I need to check those rollers. You are right about one thing. If an outboard roller was damaged and smaller than it should be then it would let the slide down on the outside (when the slide is retracted) and that would cause the inside to be up and scrape the bottom of the floor. Maybe you just figured it out. If you are correct I assume I will have to make my first trip to the mother ship. I really do not want to but I can't see me changing a roller out. I assume there are at least four rollers?

Doug

Misty123 · 01-13-2017, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AspireDoug

I need to check those rollers. You are right about one thing. If an outboard roller was damaged and smaller than it should be then it would let the slide down on the outside (when the slide is retracted) and that would cause the inside to be up and scrape the bottom of the floor. Maybe you just figured it out. If you are correct I assume I will have to make my first trip to the mother ship. I really do not want to but I can't see me changing a roller out. I assume there are at least four rollers?

Doug

They're not easy, but I think you could install/replace one if you raised the slide up and block it with a 2x4.

royals1212 · 01-13-2017, 10:57 AM

Doug

The last pages out pdf file has some limited information on changing the rollers with pictures.

Herb

AspireDoug · 01-13-2017, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by royals1212

Doug

The last pages out pdf file has some limited information on changing the rollers with pictures.

Herb

Does not look like fun getting my hands in there. That PDF has a lot of good info in it.
I'm trying to get my racecar ready for a race in two weeks and the engine, transmission and brakes all have to be redone. Just installed the heads last night so the coach may have to wait a week or two.

Jerry

jestal · 01-14-2017, 12:28 PM

The roller does make a lot of sense. If one is bad it would have the same effect to try and cock the slide putting a lot of side load on the bearing causing the bearing problem. I lost a roller on the passenger side front slide. the plastic sheath on the roller came loose and lodged and stopped the roller and I caught it due to noise and jerking of the slide before it did any damage. The roller was visible by pulling down the rubber skirt on the outside of the coach under the slide and the roller was right there at the edge. The sheath had been cut in spiral segments by an embedded TIEWRAP left on the floor presumably during assembly of the coach as it was one of the heavy black ones seen throughout the coach.

S&S actually replaced it since our unit was there getting the rear cap reattached and painted already so they did the repair in the downtime in between jobs. They put a wedge cut 2x4 under the slide inside and jacked on the outside to get the load off. You have to use a racheting box wrench with a #2 square bit in the box wrench due to space limitations but it came out and was replaced and all is good. Should have thought of that sooner