Non repairable tag axels leak?

[aza]

I purchased my 2019 Entegra Anthem new. Both tag axel wheels leak after several attempts to repair by Spartan, Lazy Days and Spartan approved shops. I carry oil and refill after each use. (I do not overfill) Spartan blames the repair shops I used (even though they were pre-approved). Spartan refused to pay my most recent repair arguing the prior (pre-approved) shop created the problem. I’ve worn out my welcome with Spartan as they do not return my calls.

I understand that my leak issue is not unusual with my chassis. Can someone recommend a remedy? I believe it is a design flaw, certainly there must be a fix. Help!

[philnail]

Can you provide pictures of exactly where it leaks so we can help

[twinboat]

If the oil is leaking outside, over torquing the cap bolts deforms the gaskets and they leak.

If its inside, they are damaging the seal, during installation.

Spartan approved doesn't mean you get the best guy in the shop to do a small job.

[saddlesore]

Hmmmm... waiting for pic's.... both inner and outer pls,

[Nowabeachbum]

Leaking is common but refilling is not. I’ve had leaks on several coaches and even bought oil to refill them but never have. Drove across country and back with terrible looking wheels but oil still showing on the site glass. The shiny wheels look terrible with the spider webbing oil but it is really very little oil. I would suggest you stop refilling it but keep an eye on it. Let it go to lowest refill point before dealing with it.

[Mr Ted]

Originally Posted by Nowabeachbum

Leaking is common but refilling is not. I’ve had leaks on several coaches and even bought oil to refill them but never have. Drove across country and back with terrible looking wheels but oil still showing on the site glass. The shiny wheels look terrible with the spider webbing oil but it is really very little oil. I would suggest you stop refilling it but keep an eye on it. Let it go to lowest refill point before dealing with it.

LOL!

[brobox]

I went through the same thing on my 14. Seems there is very few mechanics that know how to replace a hub seals anymore. After 5 Spartan/Entegra attempted fixes, I did it myself.

Here is what I found. The gaskets being used are paper thin. The mechanics got there training watch Sea Bond denture adhesive commercials. There was a dab of sealant at 1, 6 and 11 o'clock. Torque was by guess and by golly on the hub bolts.

The fix was easy, removed the hub covers and removed all of the attempted globs of sealant. Put the hub cover on perfectly flat surface, glass etc. I used a stainless steel tool box. Check to make sure they are not wrapped or cracked. Installed new gaskets with Permatex Black gasket sealant, applied to both sides of the gasket, something new age mechanic know nothing about. Torqued the hub covers to 16 ft lbs using a circular crisscross pattern for proper even torque. 34,000 additional mileage and no leaks. Doing it the proper way, about 1/2 and hour per wheel including time to jack it up so the oil stays in the axle housing.

[saddlesore]

Originally Posted by brobox

I went through the same thing on my 14. Seems there is very few mechanics that know how to replace a hub seals anymore. After 5 Spartan/Entegra attempted fixes, I did it myself.

Here is what I found. The gaskets being used are paper thin. The mechanics got there training watch Sea Bond denture adhesive commercials. There was a dab of sealant at 1, 6 and 11 o'clock. Torque was by guess and by golly on the hub bolts.

The fix was easy, removed the hub covers and removed all of the attempted globs of sealant. Put the hub cover on a stainless steel tool box lid and checked to make sure they where not wrapped or cracked. Installed now gaskets with Permatex Black gasket sealant, applied to both sides of the gasket, something new age mechanic know nothing about. Torqued the hub covers to 16 ft lbs using a circular crisscross pattern for proper even torque. 34,000 additional mileage and no leaks. Doing it the proper way, about 1/2 and hour per wheel including time to jack it up so the oil stays in the axle housing.

Yup... and the biggest warning is... DO NOT over fill....

[brobox]

Originally Posted by saddlesore

Yup... and the biggest warning is... DO NOT over fill....

Changing both seals, I don't think I needed to add and oil.

[Prairie Dog]

I had a huge air leak a “Spartan Approved “ shop didn’t fix after keeping my coach for a week. I was not impressed. I thought my best option was to take it to Spartan Factory. That did the trick. From now on I will take it to factory for annual service.

[twinboat]

My Father owned and operated a lawn mower and small engine repair shop.

It was an authorized and approved repair shop for many brands of small engines. At least that's what the signs said, when he bought the business.

During the summer busy season, my brothers and I, still school aged, an off duty cop, my second cousin who was a plumber, all repaired lawn mowers. Dad, a former small engine parts salesman, taught us how.

All Authorized and Approved means is your allowed to put warrantee claims in. If you think the crew went to some kind of factory training, your very mistaken. If your lucky, 1 employee did.

[aza]

Originally Posted by philnail

Can you provide pictures of exactly where it leaks so we can help

I cleaned both wheels so there is no pictures available. The oil trail comes from where the hub meets the rim. Inside the removable hub there is no oil.

[Gasman 2]

Aza, those Stemco hub leaks on the tag are difficult to chase down. Been through that.
Some folks only fill to the lower line. I’m some where near that. I used a sealant that is use by a small engine shop with a new gasket. Twinboat I spent a couple of years working in this shop. It’s by brother in law’s shop now second generation.
I removed the hub and used find sand paper on a flat surface to make sure the hub was true. Might consider leaving the ornament hub cover off and running awhile to see exactly where the oil is coming from. Those Stemco hub covers have vent holes, wonder if they are working.
When the axle gets hot the pressure increases and needs relieved
I think the best practice is to fix it yourself,
Not difficult no large tools needed.
Good luck,
Richard

[dave&ginny]

Originally Posted by Gasman 2

Aza, those Stemco hub leaks on the tag are difficult to chase down. Been through that.
Some folks only fill to the lower line. I’m some where near that. I used a sealant that is use by a small engine shop with a new gasket. Twinboat I spent a couple of years working in this shop. It’s by brother in law’s shop now second generation.
I removed the hub and used find sand paper on a flat surface to make sure the hub was true. Might consider leaving the ornament hub cover off and running awhile to see exactly where the oil is coming from. Those Stemco hub covers have vent holes, wonder if they are working.
When the axle gets hot the pressure increases and needs relieved
I think the best practice is to fix it yourself,
Not difficult no large tools needed.
Good luck,
Richard

X2 Fix it yourself and fix it right. Most shops encourage speedy yet unreliable fixes.