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Old 05-02-2018, 09:42 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pwdr Extreme View Post
Are those teardrop lights big enough to cover the holes left by the original factory lights? (not the new ones being installed after the recall) I really like the looks of those, wish I would have found them before I installed mine.
Yes, the holes on your lights are 4 7/8 inch. The tear drops are 5 in. Enlarge the holes 1/16 of an inch and the new lights will drop right in.
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:19 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary.Jones View Post
Linda

Then, did Rick pick up the flashing light power from the third connector on the connector already installed in the forward wheel well of the drive axle (for the back light)?

Gary
Gary, the tear drop light will be plug and play, however they will take a plug kit listed in the OP. All of the factory lights have the 3 pin Weather Pack plugs on the Spartan side. Entegra is using a 2 pin plug on the new factory lights. Crimp new 3 pin Weather Pack plugs on the tear drop lights, drill new holes, the factory light are 2.5 inch hole pattern, the tear drops a 5 inch hole pattern, 1.25 inch past existing holes. With the 3 pin plugs, now all 3 wires will be used instead of just 2, the 3rd wire is the turn signal.

Each light will have a Spa tan plug already there. If I decide to add two more lights at the rear wheel skirt, I will make up a harness much like they did for the recall lights connecting it to the midship light plug.
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Old 05-02-2018, 11:24 AM   #45
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Chuck

I dont think that is what I was asking....

I was asking which power connector Rick/Linda was patching/plugging into to get the side turn signal. I know the lights he is using are three wire lights. The issue is what is he plugging into to get the +12 volts for the marker and turn signal lights??

At least the way that I modified my Anthem was that I found the three wire connector (is it called a Packard connector ? (waterproof auto type connector)) attached to the forward vertical wall of the drive tire wheel wells. I think that this was first scoped out by Gasman 2 and contained in this thread http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/mid-...ls-265838.html

Spartan had a 3 wire connector already there, but Entegra used only two of the three wires, with nothing connected to the third terminal. My memory is that the center connector of that 3 connector plug was the turn signal power while the two outside pins were the marker lights (12 colts and ground). I simply removed the center waterproof plug and inserted the turn signal +12V wire/plug into that connector to get the flashing turn-signal power in addition to the marker lights which were already used. I was asking if Linda and Rich did the same as I did at the same location.... that 3-wire connector in the wheel well??

The thing that I did additionally is to pick up that same +12 volt turn signal source from that plug and extend it to three total turn signal lights on each side from the back Docking light area to the rear corner. I did that by running that flexible black slit electrical conduit to all those rear lights and zip tied it to metal supports to extend the same signal to all 3 aft lights on each side.

My front light turn signal power was taken from the standard front cap turn signal fixture on the Anthem.

Gary
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Old 05-02-2018, 11:49 AM   #46
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Gary, please read the second line of my post All of the factory lights have the 3 pin Weather Pack plugs on the Spartan side. It's not that hard, unplug factory lights, put plug on new light, plug them in. Several picture have already been post in this thread, one by Grower 15 and one by Rick.

This is not a Classic and will be much easier.
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Old 05-02-2018, 12:04 PM   #47
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Rick used all of the existing connections that were being used by the factory installed lights. He used the existing Spartan 3-wire chassis light, removed the two wire light and plug, and installed the new light with three wire plug that he prepped. Photo of old light and new, prepped light below. He has two wiring harnesses which he will add near the drive tire wheel well when he's ready to do the extra lights.
Click image for larger version

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Does this answer your question?
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Old 05-02-2018, 02:06 PM   #48
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Well, as someone else said somewhere.... we have a failure to communicate here.

The answer to my question/statement: "I was asking which power connector Rick/Linda was patching/plugging into to get the side turn signal." I think the answer to that question is: "yes, the new light is being plugged into the 3 connector Packard plug right behind the light".

I will figure it out for sure when I get the coach.

I won't personally be happy with one additional light and will most likely add one in front of the drive tire, one between the drive and tag tires, and another one in the rear corner (as well as the one in the front), just like my classic (i.e. 4 per side).

Thanks

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Old 05-02-2018, 02:30 PM   #49
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Gary, the chassis is currently wired to have signal lights at the front location on the side, the location by the rear tires next to the flood light and the rear of the coach on the side. If you want to add 1 more additional signal light to have 4 instead of the 3 it's wired for, you will have to run that wiring yourself. The other 3 signal lights will be plug and play.
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Old 05-02-2018, 02:46 PM   #50
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18s CS have 3 turn/mark lights each side. One red and two ambers . All blink before recall. Only one does not blink is the amber on the mirror arm. Easy to undo recall. As others have said the Spartan side of the socket is left with active 3 wires. Just plug in your choice of lights. Now I am looking into how to add a side turn to the side of mirror with a OEM look. Like F150. Very visible to other drivers. Suggestions welcome.
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:19 PM   #51
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OK, I've got it now.... I will in all likelihood then simply be swapping new lights for the lights already there and potentially adding one more beyond the wiring that is there.

I really like what Don Boettcher (757 driver) did which was to put one on one of the basement doors midway between the drive and steer tires. That would give fairly even spacing down the side of the coach.

Gary
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Old 05-02-2018, 08:24 PM   #52
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If anyone puts any new lights on the cargo doors make sure you place the light a minimum of 6” back from the hinge side so that when the door the light is on is open the door in front of that one will have clearance to also open. Tape a light on temporarily to check for clearance.
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Old 05-03-2018, 04:52 AM   #53
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For those that may not understand the wiring of the new and recalled installed lights, Alec, Grower 15 did an excellent photo post showing the plugs and what wire is the flashing light wire for a 3 wire light. This was on the recall light post.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/new-...ml#post4090029

For simplicity, on the coach plug as will all wiring on vehicles and trailers, Black is Ground, Brown is lights, Green is right side turn signals, Yellow is left side turn signal.

The Tear Drop light wires are: Black: = ground, White: = marker light, Red: = turn signal.

Rick, hdgoldie thank you for sharing all of your info on the first install of the of the lights on a 19 and how easy it is to make the tear drop lights "Plug and Play"
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Old 05-03-2018, 07:56 AM   #54
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Rick and Chuck

I have noted that the 3 wires from the new lights come off the bottom of the circuit board for the LEDs seem to be simply soldered onto a circuit board and extend straight out away from the circuit board. That means that they cannot be bent severely to lay flat, so assume that the three wires probably should extend through the hole in the fiberglass wall of the coach. Do they easily fit through the hole that is already there. Further, if you position the lights so the wires go through the hole already there, does this leave mounting holes from the Entegra lights there already that are not covered/concealed by the new lights or need filled/repaired/painted once the new lights are positioned and screwed down?

Gary
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Old 05-03-2018, 08:16 AM   #55
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The holes in the body that Entegra has for the light plug to fit are 1 inch.. The new factory lights screw holes are 2.5 inches, the new lights are 5 inches. Space the new holes where the wires line up with the 1 inch hole. I am sure Rick will have that spacing. No need to fill the old holes unless you want to dab some silicone on the inside
The tear drop lights are covered with clear silicone although hard to tell in the photos.

Rick came up with a good idea to cut some thin rubber gaskets to protect the paint. He found sheets at Hobby Lobby.
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Old 05-03-2018, 10:25 AM   #56
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To confirm what Chuck said, the wires do go through the existing hole. However, it's not one size fits all. Some lights needed to be repositioned for cosmetic purposes. It was never a large enough move that the old holes would ever be visible but on some locations we could reuse one of the existing holes, on some we needed two new holes. For example, one light on the driver's side was positioned to be centered over the DEF fill door. We had to scoot the new light over as far as we could go without exposing holes to get the same centering effect. We did have one new light that had a wire fall off. Not sure if we did something or it was a defect. We ordered two extra of each type of light to have backups. We needed one.
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