RO Drinking Water Installation, Anthem 2017 44B

[vsayler]

Okay, I have it installed and its working.

The flow rate is acceptable for the first 1/2 to 3/4 gallon, then it gets slow and I have only been able to get about 1.25 gallons out of it before it starts dripping only (Tank capacity is 2 gallons)

So I have ordered a pump to go on the output side, to increase the pressure (pump seems similar to an RV water pump). I have also ordered a 1 gallon "accumulator" tank. I could have gotten a smaller one but I decided that 2 gallons of RO might not be enough.

I will update when I get the pump installed.

[brobox]

Looking forward to that update. My S&B under sink is not much better.

[buddy110]

Originally Posted by vsayler

Okay, I have it installed and its working.

The flow rate is acceptable for the first 1/2 to 3/4 gallon, then it gets slow and I have only been able to get about 1.25 gallons out of it before it starts dripping only (Tank capacity is 2 gallons)

So I have ordered a pump to go on the output side, to increase the pressure (pump seems similar to an RV water pump). I have also ordered a 1 gallon "accumulator" tank. I could have gotten a smaller one but I decided that 2 gallons of RO might not be enough.

I will update when I get the pump installed.

I'm not sure a pump is going to help. When the tank is empty it's empty. Pumping won't help.


You installed this in the basement or under the sink?

[DeeGee]

A 2 gallon pressure tank only holds about 1.4 gallons. The pressure is supplied by an internal diaphragm that contains air under pressure (4-6 pounds, IIRC). If you want more water, just get a larger tank. They come in many sizes.

[vsayler]

Thanks for that info on storage tank capacity. I have now found a chart that shows capacity by various PSIs so I am going with a "3.2" gallon tank that holds 2 gallons at 40PSI, 2.2 gallons at 50 PSI, etc.
Good info.

[filter4water]

I know this is an old post, but I think my add is valuable to readers seeking advice on RO filter systems.
I operate a business that installs and service many point of use filter systems. A few years ago I decided to change all of my RO systems to UF because I was experiencing the growth of bioslime in the reservoir. There are ways to deal with this, but too detailed for this post.
Most RO system produce way to much waste water and if pre-filters are neglected, the systems is basically delivering an inferior product.

I use UF for all systems unless the source water is not potable. The are cheaper, easier, cleaner and no waste. The reservoirs are found sparkling clean during periodic service. No storage tank is required!

This is our under-sink UF system: [URL="

[Fattman-Litlboy]

We use the Kinetico Kube, that filters water under 1 micron and removes 68 chemicals. We've had it for about 1.5yrs, and the filters are only half used. It has an indicator that tells you when to change, and how much life is still left in them. It cost about $185 from Home Depot, and was very easy to install.

[brobox]

Jim, is this the one? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kube-Adv...be14/204794028
I also need to replace the old RO system in the S&B. I wanted to make sure. I saw the were a little less on Amazon. Also going to look at the one posted above your post. Did you tap into just the drinking water/ice maker line?Thx

[vsayler]

What is "UF" and how does it compare to RO??
thanks
Van

[filter4water]

UF > ultrafiltration. UF is a type of membrane filtration. The specs are generally stated that UF removes particles to 1/1,000th/micron. The RO membrane general spec membranes to removes particles as small as 1/10,000/micron. The UF captures particle contamination and clean water passes through the membrane. The RO prevents the particle from passing and washes it off as waste water. The membrane construction is different, the UF is a "net" the RO is thin film that is osmotic. Chlorine damages thin film RO, and does not damage UF membrane.

In our systems, the only difference is the type of membrane. The 3 other filters: sediment, activated carbon and carbon block are identical, only the membrane is varied.

A study of water filtration will yield basic understanding that the sediment and carbon filters are the work horses. Activated carbon is the king of economical filtration removing a lot of bad contaminants like chlorine and chlorine by-products of treatment, heavy metals and nitrates.

The advantage of RO: it removes smaller particles like fluoride and trace pharmaceuticals, smaller viruses and all minerals. Demineralized water is of questionable health benefit.

We have alkaline/mineral filters that add back minerals, but I am not impressed by their effect; including pH measurements are not significantly raised. The mineral filters tend to be relatively expensive and relatively ineffective. You can buy them on our website, but I don't emphasize them.

I think the RO has 3 negative issues. It wastes a lot of water slowly making clean water, it's expensive, and it's easily damaged by chlorine. Most municipal water contains chlorine, therefore there is plenty of opportunity to be damaged. A damaged RO stops doing it's job. Sellers of RO suggest you can change the membrane every 3 - 5 years. I think if you depend on RO you should change ALL filters annually.

At one time a few years ago, we maintained several hundred RO dispensers in office settings. Over time I could see the results of damaged RO membranes. Bioslime. A UV light takes care of this, but that adds more expense and maintenance. We gradually switched everything to UF. We routinely service the dispensers, and the reservoirs are sparkling clean now. UF is cheaper, no waste, and efficient. I will only install an RO system if the source water is questionable (some well water, sea water) or the owner insists.
Municipal water supplies are tested regularly and considered safe and potable. A filter system does not have to do too much work to really improve municipal supply. I think RO is unnecessary for most US water supply and in fact can be the worst choice for people that prefer low maintenance..

[Victory Blue]

Originally Posted by filter4water

UF > ultrafiltration. UF is a type of membrane filtration. The specs are generally stated that UF removes particles to 1/1,000th/micron. The RO membrane general spec membranes to removes particles as small as 1/10,000/micron. The UF captures particle contamination and clean water passes through the membrane. The RO prevents the particle from passing and washes it off as waste water. The membrane construction is different, the UF is a "net" the RO is thin film that is osmotic. Chlorine damages thin film RO, and does not damage UF membrane.

In our systems, the only difference is the type of membrane. The 3 other filters: sediment, activated carbon and carbon block are identical, only the membrane is varied.

A study of water filtration will yield basic understanding that the sediment and carbon filters are the work horses. Activated carbon is the king of economical filtration removing a lot of bad contaminants like chlorine and chlorine by-products of treatment, heavy metals and nitrates.

The advantage of RO: it removes smaller particles like fluoride and trace pharmaceuticals, smaller viruses and all minerals. Demineralized water is of questionable health benefit.

We have alkaline/mineral filters that add back minerals, but I am not impressed by their effect; including pH measurements are not significantly raised. The mineral filters tend to be relatively expensive and relatively ineffective. You can buy them on our website, but I don't emphasize them.

I think the RO has 3 negative issues. It wastes a lot of water slowly making clean water, it's expensive, and it's easily damaged by chlorine. Most municipal water contains chlorine, therefore there is plenty of opportunity to be damaged. A damaged RO stops doing it's job. Sellers of RO suggest you can change the membrane every 3 - 5 years. I think if you depend on RO you should change ALL filters annually.

At one time a few years ago, we maintained several hundred RO dispensers in office settings. Over time I could see the results of damaged RO membranes. Bioslime. A UV light takes care of this, but that adds more expense and maintenance. We gradually switched everything to UF. We routinely service the dispensers, and the reservoirs are sparkling clean now. UF is cheaper, no waste, and efficient. I will only install an RO system if the source water is questionable (some well water, sea water) or the owner insists.
Municipal water supplies are tested regularly and considered safe and potable. A filter system does not have to do too much work to really improve municipal supply. I think RO is unnecessary for most US water supply and in fact can be the worst choice for people that prefer low maintenance..

Excellent and informative post. Thanks for emphasizing how safe our municipal water supplies are. We’re lucky to be able to travel anywhere in the US and not have to worry about the water.

[Fattman-Litlboy]

We have a Breville coffee maker in our coach and customer service told us not to use RO water. It works best with minerals in the water. We have a water softener installed in our coach from NIRVC, with a Kinetico Kube for filtering under 1micron and removal of 68 chemicals, and all is well.

[vsayler]

filter4water, thanks for that explanation