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Old 03-16-2025, 05:22 PM   #1
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Shoreline Water Hose Reel

Need to change water hose on my reel. It looks like the hose end is attached to reel using a 90 degree fitting. This fitting is attached to hose using a machine compression fitting which cannot be easily duplicated in the field. Without removing the reel I was unable to determine how that 90 deg is attached to the reel cylinder.
So my question to those who have replaced their hose did you cut the original hose about 6" or so from this 90 deg fitting and splice the replacement to it using a barb brass splicer fitting. Has anyone removed the 90 deg fitting and found a replacement to attach to the hose reel and the replacement hose.

Your thoughts are welcome and appreciated. Thanks.

Ray
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Old 03-16-2025, 06:04 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rorr1821 View Post
So my question to those who have replaced their hose did you cut the original hose about 6" or so from this 90 deg fitting and splice the replacement to it using a barb brass splicer fitting.
That's what I did, Ray. Cut and splice. Far enough away from the 90 degree fitting so that I'd have enough left if I have to do it again someday. I also used pex crimp rings to attach the hose ends to the brass barb in an attempt to minimize the bulge. I thought that the worm gear drive hose clamps were too bulky. IIRC, I also took a couple of wraps around the crimp rings with rescue tape to minimize any chafing.

I just couldn't see any way to disassemble the reel assembly to swap the 90 degree fitting.

Take care,
Stu
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Old 03-16-2025, 06:54 PM   #3
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Good info. My hose has kinked a couple of times near the end causing low pressure.

I thought about replacing but it looked like a pain. Splicing looks easier.

Any reason these are not just designed to screw on?
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Old 03-17-2025, 06:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777 Driver View Post
That's what I did, Ray. Cut and splice. Far enough away from the 90 degree fitting so that I'd have enough left if I have to do it again someday. I also used pex crimp rings to attach the hose ends to the brass barb in an attempt to minimize the bulge. I thought that the worm gear drive hose clamps were too bulky. IIRC, I also took a couple of wraps around the crimp rings with rescue tape to minimize any chafing.

I just couldn't see any way to disassemble the reel assembly to swap the 90 degree fitting.

Take care,
Stu
Stu, did you have to remove the white water bay panel so you could splice the new hose to the old end? I was planning on using pex crimp rings if I did a splice. After looking at various 1/2" hoses made in USA I decided on Teknor Apex brand. What brand did you install?
Thanks for your comments.
Ray
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Old 03-17-2025, 02:18 PM   #5
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I did find it necessary to remove the hose reel to gain sufficient access to cut and splice the hose close to the reel. I unscrewed the panel and was able to spring it enough to remove the reel without too much difficulty. The reel clutch/drive mechanism had failed and I had to replace that, too.

As long as the approximately 1 foot of the hose closest to the reel is still intact, you should be able to pull the hose all the way out with the reel still installed and then make your hose splice completely outside the white wet bay panel. That would be the easiest.

I'm not sure about your hose selection. I just used the white Camco hose that was similar to the OEM hose. I would be careful with using any larger diameter hose than the original; there's not a lot of room on the spool and I'd be concerned with binding with the hose fully retracted.

Take care,
Stu
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Old 03-18-2025, 02:43 AM   #6
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I used this hose, I cut it down by about 8-10 feet so it would not bind up on the reel, it probably would not matter if I left it full length.

https://www.amazon.com/Water-Right-D...00INRLOCU?th=1

I cut the hose of at the fitting and used hose clamps, change out was because I was fixing the clutch in the reel I only wanted to tear it apart once.
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Old 04-01-2025, 07:14 PM   #7
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I did the splice, removed the rollers and panel. These is the same company that makes the power cord reel. Intentionally designed to prevent repair, driving the purchaser to spend hundreds for a ne one. I learned my lesson when I replaced the 50amp power cord.
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Old 04-01-2025, 08:39 PM   #8
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I did the splice, removed the rollers and panel. These is the same company that makes the power cord reel. Intentionally designed to prevent repair, driving the purchaser to spend hundreds for a ne one. I learned my lesson when I replaced the 50amp power cord.
The clutch mechanism on my hose reel failed so that the hose would not retract.

Shoreline has produced a retrofit kit for the clutch mechanism (CRRK-01). It's available from a variety of sources for ~$70. Here's a .pdf that describes that retrofit: Shoreline Reel Clutch Mod.pdf

I presume that, at some time, Shoreline started manufacturing their reels with the new clutch assembly. I'm not sure when that transition occurred. I know that my '18 Anthem (manufactured in Nov. '17) had the old style clutch assembly.

Take care,
Stu
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Old 04-01-2025, 09:20 PM   #9
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One problem with both the power cord and the water hose reels is that there is no mechanism to wind the Cord or hose neatly on the reel. The operator needs to pay attention to shift the cord and hose from side to side so the entire length of the hose or cord will fit without binding. For the power cord it is easy to see and guide it to lay evenly on the reel, but the hose not so much. I have an $80.00 air hose reel that automatically shifts from side to side, would it be that hard to include that sort of mechanism for the power cord and water hose reels?
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Old 04-01-2025, 11:13 PM   #10
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Order 1/2 rv hose on amazon. I went rt to the reel with a hose clamp. No old hose left on. 1/2 hose will allow an extra 10 or more feet of hose to be wound up. You have to predetermine first or wind it up, measure the excess, unwind it and recut. I got the gilmore 50ft marine 1/2 inch
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