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Old 01-13-2014, 10:18 PM   #1
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Star gear in door latch

I was talking to Jacob at cs he mentioned to quiet the door noise to bring the star gear in one click anyone know about that I thought he said it was behind the latch that the deadbolt slides in to behind the rectangle 4 screw panel with the round peg that sticks out on it. btw the peg on the left that moves slightly up and down when you bump it on entry.
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:33 PM   #2
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oh btw it is almost sounds like it could be coming from the upper hinge area at times has anyone covered the hinges somehow, also is there a way to test that the air seals are engaging properly
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:15 AM   #3
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If you attempt to open the door too soon after engaging the parking brake, you'll feel a much harder release.
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:19 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by johnnyreno View Post
oh btw it is almost sounds like it could be coming from the upper hinge area at times has anyone covered the hinges somehow, also is there a way to test that the air seals are engaging properly
Just yesterday afternoon I had an issue with the door latch. The post that the door locks to that is mounted on the the rectangular plate on the door jam had moved up and the door hit it hard and of course didn't latch. Can anyone explain why this post moves? Also, DW has a problem pulling the door closed when it is latched wide open. I believe the flat bar at the top of the door that I assume is to protect the door from getting torn off from winds is the problem that makes it hard to start closing the door. Any thoughts on how to make the door easier to unlatch from the wide open, locked position?
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Old 01-14-2014, 08:47 AM   #5
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The upper latch bar has a detent built into it to keep the door from blowing shut on you with a wind gust. Lube the whole area.
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:08 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyreno View Post
I was talking to Jacob at cs he mentioned to quiet the door noise to bring the star gear in one click anyone know about that I thought he said it was behind the latch that the deadbolt slides in to behind the rectangle 4 screw panel with the round peg that sticks out on it. btw the peg on the left that moves slightly up and down when you bump it on entry.
This will probably just make your door harder to close and not fix the air leak. It will pull the door in by moving the "round peg" , making the door harder or easier to latch depending on which direction you go. If you attempt this(not hard to do), do it carefully so as not to lose track any parts or the position the star keys are in. Also have scotch tape nearby. It is impossible to do the job without it. Did you adjust the air latch plate that was discussed in an earlier post?
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:22 AM   #7
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yes I did the inner frame seems il try pulling that one in a bit more its like the hinges area may have to be sealed or covered with weather stripping or ??? any ideas will help out,,, is there a interior air seal or something that I can verify is or is not working. this was a major selling point for us anyway, the quiet ride. air whistling I cant stand
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:47 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Swenster View Post
Just yesterday afternoon I had an issue with the door latch. The post that the door locks to that is mounted on the the rectangular plate on the door jam had moved up and the door hit it hard and of course didn't latch. Can anyone explain why this post moves? Also, DW has a problem pulling the door closed when it is latched wide open. I believe the flat bar at the top of the door that I assume is to protect the door from getting torn off from winds is the problem that makes it hard to start closing the door. Any thoughts on how to make the door easier to unlatch from the wide open, locked position?
I don't know about the Anthem yet, but I am guessing the door on the TS and the Anthem are pretty much the same from what I looked it. The door striker is a floating striker and a pain if you bump it going in or out of the door. I cussed that for 10 years. It was explained to me at TS that it was a floating striker so the door would close easily when parked on un-level ground.

On the TS wind latch we has to pull on the door handle to release the wind latch. I was hoping that was something that was done away with on the Entegras. I was so use to pulling the door handle to close the door, I don''t know if I tried it without pulling it when we were shopping for the new Entegra. Now you have my curiosity up.
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:08 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by johnnyreno View Post
yes I did the inner frame seems il try pulling that one in a bit more its like the hinges area may have to be sealed or covered with weather stripping or ??? any ideas will help out,,, is there a interior air seal or something that I can verify is or is not working. this was a major selling point for us anyway, the quiet ride. air whistling I cant stand
I fought the door wind noise on the TS for years and finally got it down to where it only whistled on a quartering PS head wind, but what a job of trial and error. After trying all kinds of weather stripping at home and adjustments, we finally made a trip to the factory where they trued the door with a large door jig. When they did that they put two very thin strips of weather stripping cover the door hinges screws. After the door jig straightening, that solved 80% of the problem. The new air seal in the Entegra should solve any door problem, but it doesn't sound like it's 100% until the right combination is found. Keep us informed of what does solve the problem.
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:11 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by johnnyreno View Post
yes I did the inner frame seems il try pulling that one in a bit more its like the hinges area may have to be sealed or covered with weather stripping or ??? any ideas will help out,,, is there a interior air seal or something that I can verify is or is not working. this was a major selling point for us anyway, the quiet ride. air whistling I cant stand
Just so we're clear: you loosened the 4 screws on this plate and moved it in?
I moved mine in a little at a time until the leak stopped. You should be able to tell it's engaging by the click when that round knob moves into it's locked position(when the air brake is released or put in gear, I forget which). Also make sure that the "L" shaped plastic bracket on the door that the round knob locks into is not cracked or broken. The lock mechanism and this air lock are about the only adjustments that can be made on the door.
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Old 01-14-2014, 01:46 PM   #11
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The post that the door locks to that is mounted on the the rectangular plate on the door jam had moved up and the door hit it hard and of course didn't latch.

This has happened to us repeatedly. My "round peg" isn't at all round anymore. I think the "peg" should have enough play in it that this shouldn't happen. Going to have Precision Painting look at it when I go in for some work in May.
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:38 PM   #12
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Just so we're clear: you loosened the 4 screws on this plate and moved it in?
I moved mine in a little at a time until the leak stopped. You should be able to tell it's engaging by the click when that round knob moves into it's locked position(when the air brake is released or put in gear, I forget which). Also make sure that the "L" shaped plastic bracket on the door that the round knob locks into is not cracked or broken. The lock mechanism and this air lock are about the only adjustments that can be made on the door.
Yes beachy I did exactly as you advised a couple weeks and then again a lil at a time ago im close to all the way slid in towards drivers seat I will double check the plastic seat to see if its cracked I will use a magnifier this time, oh and yes I do hear it click into place and am following the correct door close procedure. it has quieted down however its still there
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