Community Forums

bevandtomH · 09-27-2019, 03:26 PM

Jim, that would make sense. I can turn it on from the switch in the bath or from the wet bay.
Hope some others can chime in too.
Thanks!

Oversoul · 09-27-2019, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by murry135

Tom,
I did not change my pump. Just added a check valve after the pump discharge. As for the old pump 3wire configuration I would think it is that way if you have 2 locations to turn pump on from. Sorry I can't be much help.

If I'm not mistaken, (and I possibly could have read the manual wrong), I believe those pumps state that the check valve should be installed on the suction side of the pump. Not the pressure side of the pump.

Mwoodofd · 09-27-2019, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bevandtomH

Jim, glad you got yours resolved.

Is there a fuse hidden somewhere in the coach for the water pump?
Can't find it in my 12v cabinet, nor under the seat. I would like to think there is one somewhere and not just trust the on/off switch at the panel.

Any comments welcome.
Thanks.
Tom

Here is a copy of what Chuck posted in another thread in Mid September about the water pump fuse label in the cabinet. (from Gary)

If it ran a long time, may have over heated and popped the fuse. The fuse is marked "monitor" in the bathroom fuse cabinet. I know weird labeling, the tank monitors and pump are on the same circuit. Thanks to Nowabeachbum for that tip.

Also make sure the City Fill is closed so the pump shuts off.
__________________
Chuck in SW FL
A "Digital" 2019 Cornerstone "B"
A "Classic" 2014 Anthem 42 RBQ---Sold
2016 Colorado Z71 PU

bevandtomH · 09-27-2019, 08:46 PM

Mark, thank you for that. Would never suspected that. The two leads make sense.
Thanks again.
Tom

RubiconTrail · 09-28-2019, 07:23 AM

There are only two connections to be made to the pump, one is the white and black (yes, the ground, virtually all 12 volt grounds in motor home house wiring are white) and the red, which is positive. The other red wire you see runs the pump, it goes from the pressure switch (which switches the pump on and off based on pressure/demand) to the pump itself and you won't have to mess with it.

The multiple switch location relay is handled in the tank monitor circuitry.

John

bevandtomH · 09-28-2019, 04:09 PM

Hello John, thanks for clarifying that. I should be good now.
Thanks again.
Tom

bevandtomH · 09-30-2019, 12:05 PM

Just to finish this from my POV, that”2nd” red wire was exactly as you described John, thanks. I just did not trace it back until I removed the plastic loom. New pump is slightly taller so new mounting holes required. My pump now is running properly but I am not convinced my city/tank fill valve won’t need to be replaced. Thanks for everyone’s help.
Tom

Rex3 · 10-03-2019, 02:58 PM

Mine got stuck in the tank fill position and out of frustration I turned the valve back and forth about 6 times and was able to get it to city water. Trip saved.

hsvjim · 10-03-2019, 03:21 PM

It is normally inside the pump. You can take the pump apart and see if a piece of grit is in the check valve. If not they have good warranty depending how old it is. You may have to purchase a new pump. In ten years I have gotten one with warranty and purchased one.
Jim

ijimb · 10-03-2019, 03:39 PM

I had the same problem of the city water overflowing my freshwater tank. I took a different approach, I just cut the pex discharge line from the water pump and installed a shark-bite type check valve in the discharge line. No need to disassemble the pump head has worked great for over a year now. Hope this helps...

Steve 716 · 10-03-2019, 05:26 PM

This is a frequent issue that is easily resolved. The problem is that the check valve in the water pump is of the cheap plastic variety. If you replace the pump the new one will fail as well. Here is what you need to do. Buy a pex cutter and a sharkbite check valve. Cut your pex at least six inches from the output port on your piump. Use the pex cutter and cut the line straight or else it might leak. The sharkbite has an arrow on its sleeve. Point the arrow away from your pump and push the lines in completely on both ends. Once done you won't have anymore problems. Any Sharkbite connector can be removed easily if ever needed.

rb8921 · 10-03-2019, 06:02 PM

Had a similar problem. When hooked up to city water my fresh water tank would fill. Apparently water was flowing back through the water pump. I put a $3 check valve between the pump and tank which fixed the problem.

waterwalkers · 10-04-2019, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brobox

Look up Rollin 101's post on installing a Shark Bite in line flow valve and you problem will be solved forever. Less that 5 minutes to install and it won't fail over and over.

I had the same problem with my MBOK. It would start filling my fresh holding tank with no warning. Just noticed water running out the bottom of my trailer one day. I found that if I ran the pump for a few minutes, it would go away for a while, but would come back.
I had planned to install a one way valve after the pump to fix the issue, but decided to check with Jayco first. They suggested that I install a one way valve (Like the shark Bite) to resolve the issue. Even sent me a picture of the pump and where to install the valve.

Billr580 · 10-06-2019, 10:19 AM

I had this happen twice under warranty and the service shop tried to tell me it couldn't happen. What I did that so far has "fixed" it was to drain the tank most the way, unhook the city water and run the pump 3 or 4 times. So for the last 4 months it hasn't happened again. As for your answer, it's coach dependent, in my case the valve is actually in the water pump where others are located in a separate cabinet. E-mailing the builder is your best option.