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Old 12-26-2017, 06:08 PM   #1
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Towing and service advice

Hi,

On our way from WI to FL and we are now stuck on I 24 east of Paducah KY. The engine light came on and shortly thereafter the stop engine light. It appears we have some type of major coolant leak on the passenger side of the engine compartment. I can’t see any obvious hose issues so Spartan has recommended we have Coach Net tow us to a secure location until a service center can be found in the am.

Any other suggestions regarding the tow? I know we are supposed to make sure the drive shaft is disconnected and secure. Anything else?

Also any recommended service centers in this area?

I’m guessing we aren’t making the Orange Bowl on Saturday.

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 12-26-2017, 06:13 PM   #2
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Remove rear mud flap. Mark drive shaft so it goes back in the same position. Punch marks, even dots of nail polish will do...be sure the driver leaves the caps with you or the coach.

Get out the manual for any Entegra specific instructions.
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Old 12-26-2017, 06:22 PM   #3
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Thanks for the quick reply.

I can remove the mud flap while we wait for the tow truck.

I’m not sure I understand what part of the driveshaft I should mark?

Also what caps are you referring to?

Going through the Entegra book now. Thanks
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Old 12-26-2017, 06:27 PM   #4
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If you can mark a line from one end of the shaft to the other, along every part, they can line every thing back up when they install it.

A good shop would put it back in correctly anyway, but if you detect a vibration after its re-installed, you can check your alignment.
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Old 12-26-2017, 06:39 PM   #5
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On an Entegra, remove the generator cowl (door) four 9/16 bolts. It will get damaged bouncing on the tow truck boom. There is also a section in the Entegra owners manual about towing, but removing the cowl is not there, that came from experience.

If the tow truck sent cannot lift it from the wheels, request another tow truck.
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Old 12-26-2017, 07:01 PM   #6
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Coach net is verifying they are able to remove the driveshaft.

They are saying because of the length it will be towed from 10’ away. Not sure what that means?
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Old 12-26-2017, 08:06 PM   #7
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We are waiting for the tow truck, which Coach Net has assured us, will be able to wheel lift and disconnect the drive shaft.

In the meantime we contacted Entegra about running the Aqua Hot with the engine coolant loss because the temp is in the teens.

Entegra after hours indicated there should be two shut off levers at some point between the engine and the AQ system, but really couldn’t give any specifics. Any ideas where those might be for a 2015 Anthem DEQ? We need to turn them a 1/4 turn to isolate the AQ from the engine.
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Old 12-26-2017, 08:48 PM   #8
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https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...ba&hsimp=yhs-1

Pretty sure yours look like the red handled ones in the second and third row of pics attached. Close to back of the head for one, not sure about the other. Both will be in-line in heater hose size lines, about 1-1 1/2 inch diameter.

Good Luck

The ten foot on the wrecker refers to the "stinger" that will be used to grasp the front wheels for the lift. Ten foot should be enough that you won't have to remove the generator cowling...but certainly check carefully. Sounds like you are getting the really big wrecker...the right one!
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Old 12-26-2017, 08:58 PM   #9
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Paul, heidi, you can run your AH with the gas option; while stopped, it will have NO interaction with the engine coolant. The hoses to the engine do not operate when the coach is not running, however, there are 2yellow handled lever , bottom and top of the engine that can be moved to close the lines. PM me if you want to talk. I'm west coast so I'll be up for a while.


Next, what is the nature of the fluid dripping from the coach. If it is on the passenger side and forward of the engine, it could be a clamp on the engine coolant line to the aqua hot. That was a recall several years ago on 15s and before. The coolant line from the engine are runs into the back of the AH. The is a clamp there and not he inside. If you have a spring clamp on the back rather than some typeof worm gear clamp and it is leaking there (fluid will travel across the basement in some cases), you could replace the clamp, refill the coolant at the overflow, and avoid the wrecker. BTW, I had this leak on my 15 several years ago. I also had a 13 Anthem with the same configuration.

[moderator edit] At most you may want to remove the generator door cover unless the wrecker arm extends well underneath to the front end. Hope this helps
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Old 12-26-2017, 09:07 PM   #10
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Actually, the "Book" on how to tow one of these rigs is to put it up on a "low boy" trailer and carry it like you would see a road grader or huge track hoe but they are hard to come by. If you use a wheel stinger, then carefully consider removing the generator cowl. There has been lots of damage from some trucks. Also, the tow truck will access your braking system through an air chuck which is located under the floor between the first and second compartment in the basement on the passenger side. There may be another one specifically for tow trucks to connect to control the brakes up in the generator compartment. You might also consider removing your down turn Cummin's exhaust (look at clearance between exhaust and highway when in "ride height on the tow truck". These stinger trucks have a lot of weight on the rear end and the front of your coach is gonna bounce up and down as it is pulled down the highway.

I assume that you are seeing no coolant loss (it will look like white soap stains on your toad) if you are throwing the coolant and the coolant overflow tank will be empty. The sight glass on the tank on old Entegras used to fracture .... you might look at that. A pipe plug will seal that problem temporarily. If it is not there and not a loose pipe clamp or a badly blown radiator, then a rare but reported problem is that the coolant can leak into the turbo cooler (I am not sure of that one... working from memory here).

Take the toad and temporarily leave the coach and try to find a hotel room and be back Sunday to watch what is happening to your coach after you get them to promise that it will be connected to 30A or 50A service the entire time.

Good Luck (its always something..... it happens.... :-( ag least it often happens to us

Gary
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Old 12-26-2017, 09:09 PM   #11
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Well, they need to take you to a certified Cummins or Spartan Service Center. Cummins Coach Care is first class, but in a pinch, any certified truck operation that is satisfactory to Spartan and Cummins is a good place to be. Ideally, they need to be able to provide you power all the time you are there, or you need to watch your power situation very carefully and run the genny as needed.

Gary
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Old 12-26-2017, 09:11 PM   #12
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Driveshaft or pull axle shafts...either way, BUT no knowledgeable big hook driver will tow an Allison trans vehicle without doing one. Failure to do that will result in trans replacement. $$$$$
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Old 12-26-2017, 09:36 PM   #13
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I have always heard that the drive shaft needs to be disconnected prior to towing, however, I have never needed to be towed (thank heavens). However, do what Spartan instructs you to do..... if you dont follow their guidance, you may be on your own for any transmission damages. I'd take none of our advice. Talk to Spartan and get it from the "horse's mouth".

Maybe I am wrong, but it is your nickle potentially.

Gary
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Old 12-26-2017, 09:48 PM   #14
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TOWING OR PUSHING
The engine cannot be started by pushing or towing. Before pushing or towing a
vehicle, disconnect the driveline, lift the drive wheels off the road, or remove the
axle shafts from the drive wheels. When the axle shafts are removed, be sure to
cover the wheel openings to prevent loss of lubricant and entry of dust and dirt. An
auxiliary air supply will usually be required to actuate the vehicle brake system.


CAUTION: Failure to lift the driving wheels off the road, disconnect
the driveline, or remove the axle shafts before pushing or towing can
cause serious transmission damage.

From the Allison 3000/4000 Owner Manual...just sayin' sometimes you need to see it in print.
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