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Old 03-04-2023, 06:58 PM   #1
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TST TPMS installation recommendations

Well, I bought this new TST TPMS system about 6 months ago and tried twice at home to get the TPMS sensors installed correctly and although I made several serious attempts, I never got them installed correctly on my own. I tried both of the OEM recommended systems for programming wheel positions and sensors pairs on the display but I finally gave up. The system that worked best was to program the sensors to the display before installing the sensors to the tire stems. So, finally I called TST for help, and their people were very helpful and walked me through the process on the phone. All 12 sensors programmed to the display with their assistance. They did pick different axles to pair the sensors to than I picked, and theirs worked so they must be right. I will post a summary on here of what they recommended on a future thread.

So, then I started to add their sensors to the tires and discovered a problem. The coach pass-through sensors installed just fine to the drive axle tires because the stems for those tires are long and ends are free and clear of the aluminum wheels. However, on the steer axle aluminum wheels and the tag axle wheels, the ends of the current OEM stems barely exit beyond the holes in the aluminum wheels and I could screw the pass through sensors onto the valve stems by gently bending the stems away from the wheel far enough to let the sensors rotate. I had to push the stems away from the wheel holes and keep gently pushing the stems away from the wheel while I kept turning the sensor to get to the point it was on tight and no air was leaking. I get the sensor on, but have to slightly bend the stem and the sensor ends up pretty close to the wheel hole.

That just doesn't seem right. It seems like there should be a larger space between the pass through sensor and the holes/spaces in the aluminum wheels on this Cornerstone. Maybe that is OK, but I don't like the close proximity if there is any vibration or movement. It seems to me that I need about a 1/2" to 3/4" extension to space the sensors better. So I called TST and they recommended extensions made by Wheel Masters. Wheel Masters stems were either are way too long straight stems or shorter 90 degree and 45 degree turn stems (1" before the bend and 2" after the bend), but even those seem like they will have the sensors located too far out beyond the wheel. I just am uncomfortable with the sensors protruding so far from the aluminum wheels.

So when something does not seem right, its time to look for guidance from other owners on this forum who may have gone before me. I'm sure there are owners out there with the same aluminum wheels and the TST TPMS system pass-through sensors, so I thought I would ask for advice. What has been your experience mounting sensors to the steer and tag axle tires? What worked for you? Any comments or guidance for me would be appreciated.

The toad sensors were a piece of cake as they are not pass through sensors and the end cap types mounted easily on my Honda stems.

Gary
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Old 03-04-2023, 07:07 PM   #2
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I don't know the size difference between the Cap Sensor and the Flow Thru Sensor, would the Cap Sensor fit on the Steer Axle and on the Tag?


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Old 03-04-2023, 07:37 PM   #3
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Cap sensors will fit all wheel positions. I currently have them on my 14 Anthem.
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Old 03-04-2023, 08:05 PM   #4
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Yes, they might be better on those wheels (although I am not sure). However, then you have to remove the sensors to check tire pressure independently and you lose a little pressure each time you do it. The pass-throughs seems like the right way to do it, but then, present this problem I'm talking about.

TST makes both types. I'm hoping there are others that chose the pass-through sensors that have figured out a way to use them. I can successfully flex the stems enough to mount the sensors, but then the sensors end up pretty close to the wheels and I am concerned that if the sensors vibrate while rotating or bouncing down the interstates that any banging against the wheel or vibration of the stems/sensors might shorten their life.

Ill take a picture tomorrow and add to the thread.

Gary
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Old 03-05-2023, 04:20 AM   #5
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Gary, I have used the TST since 2014 on m Aspire, and I too had to move or flex the stems to get them mounted, and a few of them may rest on the openings in some of the wheels, and I have had no real problem with them. I have had to replace a few of them over time that seemed to lose connection too much, and instead of trying more trouble-shooting, I just replaced them. I have not considered that the failures could be the ones that are in the positions that had to be moved or flexed to install. I will look at that next week when I am back at the MH.
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Old 03-05-2023, 06:12 AM   #6
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There are a couple of versions of the past through sensor and they are slightly different in shape. Which version are you using.
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Old 03-05-2023, 07:29 AM   #7
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Gary,

I have always used the cap sensors without issue regarding the fit on any of my wheels including the steers. My wheel design is probably different tho. The cap sensors are shorter and lighter than the pass thru. The tiny amount of air lost when putting them on has never been an issue. I remove my sensors when parked for long periods of time as this "shuts off" the transmitter and the batteries last longer.

Not Wheel Masters brand but Googling "short valve stem extender" came up with a few possibly useful options like:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NTH9...&gclsrc=aw.ds&

or this:

Milton S-441 3/4" Brass Valve Extension - Pack of 4
https://a.co/d/74g6DMF

A word of advice on your toad sensors. If your Honda has aluminum stems like my Honda did, be sure to apply some dielectric grease to the threads. The brass in the sensor cap threads will galvanically react with the aluminum stem, the aluminum will "corrode" and over time it will become impossible to remove the sensors without damage. I found this out the hard way and had to destroy two TST sensors to get them off and it left the valve stems threads on the Honda pretty messed up.
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Old 03-05-2023, 10:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voltdoc View Post
Gary,

I have always used the cap sensors without issue regarding the fit on any of my wheels including the steers. My wheel design is probably different tho. The cap sensors are shorter and lighter than the pass thru. The tiny amount of air lost when putting them on has never been an issue. I remove my sensors when parked for long periods of time as this "shuts off" the transmitter and the batteries last longer.

Not Wheel Masters brand but Googling "short valve stem extender" came up with a few possibly useful options like:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NTH9...&gclsrc=aw.ds&

or this:

Milton S-441 3/4" Brass Valve Extension - Pack of 4
https://a.co/d/74g6DMF

A word of advice on your toad sensors. If your Honda has aluminum stems like my Honda did, be sure to apply some dielectric grease to the threads. The brass in the sensor cap threads will galvanically react with the aluminum stem, the aluminum will "corrode" and over time it will become impossible to remove the sensors without damage. I found this out the hard way and had to destroy two TST sensors to get them off and it left the valve stems threads on the Honda pretty messed up.

Dielectric Grease main purpose isn't to stop Oxidation or Galvanic Action.
Dielectric Grease is an electrical insulator. Here is a good one:

https://app.salsify.com/catalogs/7d8...oducts/1003734

The following items are made specifically for the prevention of oxidation and Galvanic Action, and are used primarily in the electrical industry for connections of dis-similar metals:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ILSCO-8-...Z-EC/317173897

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Noalox-A...-026/202276208

Tim
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Old 03-05-2023, 11:26 AM   #9
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Gary. I picked up a couple of straight brass extensions for the inside dullies at my local truck tire shop for a couple of dollars. I replaced the OEM steams so there were less joints to leak. Not hard to replace just have to get your hand between the tires.
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Old 03-05-2023, 03:23 PM   #10
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I've bought 1" straight stem extensions already in a pack of 4 at Autozone. However, when I got home, I noticed that on the cardboard package back, the first line said "Not to be used with TPMS". When I called TST, they said "Yes, those stem extensions have a half moon end valve and those won't work with TPMSes and we recommend using extensions from Wheel Masters (90 degree stems are 1" to turn, then 2" to end (either 45 degree bend or 90 degree bend)). The Wheel Master stem extensions are too long, IMO.

Thus, my question about what others have done.

Have not thought through replacing the whole extension but those don't seem like straight stems. I think the OEM stock stems are bent on virtually all wheels. Will have to look into this all more closely.

Gary
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Old 03-05-2023, 03:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TB673 View Post
Dielectric Grease main purpose isn't to stop Oxidation or Galvanic Action.
Dielectric Grease is an electrical insulator. Here is a good one:

https://app.salsify.com/catalogs/7d8...oducts/1003734

The following items are made specifically for the prevention of oxidation and Galvanic Action, and are used primarily in the electrical industry for connections of dis-similar metals:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ILSCO-8-...Z-EC/317173897

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Noalox-A...-026/202276208

Tim
Thanks, good info.

When I complained to TST about the issue (this was 8 or 9 years back) they sent me a small tube of dielectric grease and it did do the job until I sold the Honda in 2021.

In my sailing days we used Lanocote then later Tef-Gel. I think the main reason any of these "anti-seize" or non conductive grease type remedies work is they keep the water out which then can't behave as an electrolyte.
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Old 03-05-2023, 05:31 PM   #12
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Gary, I have never been a fan of a number of valve stem extension since the factory installed ones on the Travel Supreme left me with a flat tire. When I install the EEZE RV on the 14, I removed the short factory extensions, installed longer ones with the boot for the wheel hole to hold them straight. The less schrader valves involve the less chance of failure. It only takes a few minutes to do it right and never have to worry about it. Take this stem off and replace it with a longer one. They sell a rubber boot goes over the valve stem to stop any flexing with the TPS sensor attached. I ordered mine from Alcoa, but I don't see them on their site now. A call could probably locate them.
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Old 03-05-2023, 05:43 PM   #13
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Here is the hole inserts, you'll need the ones for 22.5 wheels. This should solve what you are trying to accomplish. https://www.bigrigchromeshop.com/alc...e-p-53027.html

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Old 03-05-2023, 09:43 PM   #14
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I'll look into it.

Thanks

Gary
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