I kept trying to ignore this thread, because I really didn't want to get into another one of my detailing pontifications (which some of you have problem seen along the way by now), but here is goes anyway.
First:
Quote:
Originally Posted by txdebbielong
We're at the ECOA Buckhorn Rally. Have had awesome wash/detail sessions with Griot's Garage--we learned ALOT (we were doing many things wrong). They also have great instructional YouTube videos. Check them out--https://www.griotsgarage.com/emailSignup/thankyou.do
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Don't feel bad - many, if not most, "car guys" and collectors don't know what they are doing either. It amazes me the poor paint care I see at car shows, car collections / museums, etc. I use / have used many Griot's products for many years, and yes, I would highly recommend thier instructional videos.
So here it goes......
There can (and usually is) a very big difference beteween "clean" and great paint. There are many ways to clean your car / RV but very few (and none that are "easy") to get and maintain a great paint finish.
I'm going to try to keep this pontification to just washing and drying, but want to clarify a couple things.
"Swirl" marks are caused most often by driving dirt and grit into your paint by washing and drying. "Swirls / swirl marks" are terms often used in a generic way to mean any minor to major surface marring, circular, horizontal, vertical, or otherwise. Most people think of swirl marks as what are actually holograms that you see on dark cars after a $20 wash and buff special at the local car wash - they are "worst case" swirls, and usually caused by improper use of a rotary "buffer". To remove swirl marks, you need to polish which is an entirely different topic I won't get into now.
As much as possible, you want to wash, dry, (and apply and remove waxes / sealants) horizontally not vertically. Very simply, horizontal micro scratches / swirls do not reflect the light to your eye as much as vertical ones do. Circular are even worse. And btw, Karate Kid was not a detailing documentary - there is no reason to apply / remove wax or sealants in a circular manner either (dual action orbital machines excluded).
Back to brushes - why brushes are generally not good to use when washing your RV.
Good boar's hair brushes are very expensive, so most people cheap out and get a brush that is going to scratch the paint.
I don't think I have seen a brush on a swivel head, hence, you wash vertically which is not what you want to do.
Most people put too much pressure on a brush, they act like they are scrubbing the floor, which increase see the likelihood of scratching the paint.
Most people use a brush long after it should be thrown away, and the bristles are worn down too far, and guess what, scratch the paint.
With that out of the way.....
Clean soapy water is your friend. A good car wash soap has surfectants to lift grime and lubricants to minimize scratching. I don't get the baby shampoo / vinegar thing - you wouldn't wash your baby's hair with car wash soap, so why wash your RV with baby shampoo that has neither surfectants or lubricants specifically for washing a vehicle?
The next big key is clean wash water and a clean mitt (high quality micro fiber or lambs wool).
I use about 9 buckets of clean soapy water when I wash my little gasser (1 front cap, 1 rear cap, 2 each side upper, 1 each side bay doors, 1 wheels). I also have a "soap gun" to initially apply soapy water.
Some have recommended a grit guard in your bucket and / or a 2 bucket process where your clean soapy water is in one, and your rince your mitt in the other before you put it in the soapy water. When washing my RV, I just wash my mitt out with the hose after each section vs. using a rince bucket. Lower / bay doors get a full rinse after each long door, or 2 small doors. I rince after about every 6' or so above the belt line.
I have separate mitts for the upper, lower / bay doors, and wheels.
I wash in sections, front cap, bay doors, rear cap, upper sides, wheels.
A couple tips on drying. Apply detailing spray to each wet section before you dry with a towel. The detailing spray lubricates your towel, and picks up any left over grit to minimize scratching , removes most minor water spotting, and it leaves a nice finish.
It's about impossible to dry horizontally on the higher sections of the coach using a towel draped over your extension pole, so just be very gentle. And as soon as you can reach your working area, grab the towel and go back to working horizontally. Your drying towels are going to get wet and dirty too, I use 3 to dry our coach.
As for wheels / wheel wells. Use separate a separate towel for drying (and of course washing as noted above.
It takes me about 5 hours to wash the coach myself, 3 1/2 or so if my wife helps. Yes, I go over board on my RV and car care / detailing, but I really enjoy doing all this. No short cuts, and yes, it's dirty too often, but I'm not going to mess up my paint by not doing a proper washing. And, a vehicle with great paint actually looks cleaner longer......
Take this for what it's worth, with due consideration for the time and effort you want to take - it's your expectations that are important, not mine.
Not to get into washing the roof, but just don't use anything cleaning it you wouldn't use on your paint......
Good luck.....
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