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Old 05-23-2020, 05:55 PM   #1
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Waxing and Water spots

Hi all - I just started my Spring waxing project and noticed something interesting and troubling. For wax, I use Griots Polywax and have for a couple years. there aren't any solvents in Polywax from what I understand.

Our coach is washed usually twice when we're in Tucson whose water resembles liquid granite with a few salts thrown in. The wash crew does a good job but there always seem to be water spots. At any rate, I washed the rig this week and squeegeed most of the wash water off here in Washington (not great water either) and started waxing. The wax does a good job but if I get the light just right I can see a faint hint of spotting. I can't feel it with my fingernail but it's there nevertheless. It's almost like it's in the clear coat.

So, have any of our collective experts experienced this and what did you do about it. I hate to think I need to hit this with a wheel. There must be an easier and less aggressive solution.

Thank you....
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Old 05-23-2020, 05:56 PM   #2
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Look into DI water for rinsing. This will take care of the water spotting problem.
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Old 05-23-2020, 06:12 PM   #3
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For small areaís, prior to wax or sealing I use vinegar......


https://guidetodetailing.com/damage-...e-water-spots/
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Old 05-23-2020, 06:17 PM   #4
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Distilled water on a cloth will remove water spots.
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Old 05-23-2020, 06:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spk64 View Post
Look into DI water for rinsing. This will take care of the water spotting problem.
about 95% of them. I love mine
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Old 05-23-2020, 07:15 PM   #6
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I've used vinegar in a spray bottle on MH & dark painted hull on the boat with success. For real tough ones I have used Lime Away on small troublesome areas.
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Originally Posted by Glider114 View Post
For small areaís, prior to wax or sealing I use vinegar......


https://guidetodetailing.com/damage-...e-water-spots/
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Old 05-23-2020, 07:36 PM   #7
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I have NOT used this product, so, I can't offer a personal endorsement. However, I've used other of their products and been very satisfied with them.

Aero Cosmetics offers a Water Spot Remover: https://washwax.com/products/water-s...05573ad0&_ss=r

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I think I'd be inclined to try this before I broke out the buffer.

Take care,
Stu
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Old 05-24-2020, 05:44 AM   #8
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Just do it right to start with...........

Since you are already using Polywax, Griots Complete Polish with a medium foam pad on your orbital should easily remove water spots as well as other minor paint defects at the same time. For a more aggressive paint correction if necessary, Complete Compound is also a one step polish that starts with a heavier cut than Complete Polish and also breaks down like Complete Polish so that you don’t need to do a finishing polish (unless you really want to get carried away, which is even too much for me on my RV or Jeep ). And yes, then you’ll need to apply the Polywax.

If you are just dealing with some small areas, you could try a hand pad with the polish, but as I’ve seemed to find out, after about 5 minutes of trying to hand polish even a small area I get too aggravated and just the machine out.......

I have used Complete Polish, Complete Compound as necessary, and Polywax on the RV (and my Cherokee) since new.

An alternative (which I have not tried) could be Griots One Step Sealant, but the sealant will not last as long as the Polywax (per my conversation with them), so you’ll probably have to apply a coat of Polywax sooner, but it would eliminate doing the the polish followed by sealant at the same time. Im just not a fan of cleaner “waxes” or “all in ones”.........

The results of my efforts with Complete Polish and Polywax on our 42,000 mile coach in March:
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Old 05-24-2020, 06:35 AM   #9
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What Betr2Trvl said. A buffer is the best way to apply wax.
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Old 05-24-2020, 05:07 PM   #10
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Waxing and Water spots

Are you the original owner of your coach?

Basically do you know for sure that someone at sometime did not
Wash the coach incorrectly and has left a faint hint of these water spots..

I say this because I have the same issue... and it was definitely the
Owner and or dealer before I bought it.. itís almost like itís in the clear coat.. the spots are there and visible in the right light.. I also have it on my windows.. nothing I have bought can faze them

When they are so deep and have sat on the paint for years not sure if these store bought products can touch them..

Overall my coach shines up good.. but they are there...

I wish people would realize the damage of simply not wiping down correctly and how important it is to use deionized water when Washing a 45 foot motor home

If you find the solution I would also love to hear it....
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Old 05-24-2020, 05:57 PM   #11
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I had the same problem that I believe the OP and lowjug have described...badly etched water spots from the time my 2017 Tiffin Phaeton was new.

I used to build and show street rods, and learned a lot about detailing from other owners at the time, but none of that information was helping me at all with my coach.

I finally found a procedure, that with a lot of elbow grease, worked to remove the spots even from the windows. The procedure and products I used are outlined in the Medium to Heavy Cut section of the attached PDF.

I'm posting this information with the hope that someone might find it beneficial. If not....oh well.
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Old 05-25-2020, 04:48 AM   #12
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I’ll try to make this quick regarding water spot etching (or even worse, bird poo/bug guts etching, or scratches).

You have to make the call as to how aggressive you can / want to be with polishing. I will say most novices are so scared of polishing they are not aggressive enough, but “do no harm” is a key foundation of detailing, so keep that in mind as you build your experience and confidence.

Modern factory automotive paints are pretty darn good these days. I’ll even go so far to say that the paint on my 2015 Cherokee is as good as my 2012 Mercedes was, and better than my 2010 BMW or my 2006 Porsche. And given how it’s applied, I’ve been very aggressive when necessary, not only on my cars, but when I helped others who were often a bit surprised at how hard I worked the paint to get the results I was expecting (and how bad their paint was to start with ).

On the other hand, given RVs are painted in a spray booth, and the quality of the paint and thickness of the clear coat can vary not only by the “level” of the coach, but simply deviations due to the human element of the paint application. I think it’s wise to be much more cautious with how aggressive to be....... no hard and fast rules here, it’s a judgement call on you part based on your experience/ comfort level.

In any case, car or RV, the paint defect may be deep enough that all you can do is make it less noticeable by polishing, smoothing out the edges of the defect as much as you can. Starting with the least aggressive method that you think is appropriate is always best, and working up if / as necessary to get the results that meet you expectations given the circumstances.

The Jeep has 35,000 miles on the odo, another 40,000 behind the RV, and has sat outside about 5 months a year during our RV adventures..

I will close with one last thought, nobody but a properly trained highly skilled detailing professional (few and far between) should be using a direct drive / rotary machine (like a DeWaldt) or wool pads.

Dual Action Random Orbitals (Porter Cable is the de facto standard, and many of the detailing companies sell others including private label brands from Griots for instance) and foam pads, using the many newer polishes will be adequate for most paint correction work in the hands of a novice / hobbyist. Even detailing professionals will seldom use a direct drive machine, as there is seldom the need to do so.

Machines favored by avid enthusiasts and professionals that kind of fall in between a PC orbital and a rotary include long throw orbitals such as a Rupes, the dual head Cyclo, and the Flex 3401 Eccentric Polisher which is what I use. They are relatively expensive (and heavy) and I would not recommend them to a novice.

Good luck
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Old 05-25-2020, 05:57 AM   #13
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Years ago we stayed at an RV Park that would water their lawns at night with sprinklers. The water was extremely hard - which we found out the hard way:-) After getting back home and washing the coach I noticed all these water spots. They were etched into the clear coat and no matter what I tried (Vinegar, all kinds of water spot removers, etc.) - nothing would work.

After a lot of research, I finally settled on this 3M Rubbing compound,https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1, an orbital buffer and pads in various levels of aggressiveness. It took me two weeks to get rid of all the spots and detailing the coach afterwards.

I only hope I never have to do this again - oh, and I bought a scaffolding rig because climbing up and down the ladder got really old:-)
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Old 05-25-2020, 08:35 AM   #14
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Although not a fun exercise, clay bar cleaning is highly recommended after washing and before correcting & polishing. It is amazing how much stuff you pull off your freshly washed paint!

I use Griotís Speedshine as the lube.
Pull out a hunk of the yellow clay. Massage into a palm sized pad.
Spritz a 3íx3í area with spray. Rub in two different directions. Fold and massage the clay, back to solid yellow. Repeat until the area is clear, and no black is on your clay.

Your polishing efforts will be enhanced when buffing with NO CONTAMINANTS on your paint.

You might want to forego the buffer applied polywax, and try the spritz on wipe off Ceramic 3 in one Wax. Lasts even longer than poly wax and MUCH easier to apply!

Apply in shade/overcast conditions!
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