Whirlpool Washer Control Panel Removal

[DoggieDaddy]

Use a five pound sledge. It won't remove it right but your heart will feel good.

[RubiconTrail]

Originally Posted by 757driver

John,

Yes, we get the code on generator. I think this is the first time doing laundry on generator. Interesting that you got the same code on generator as well. Since getting the new control board does it still do it on generator?

I might try running it off of the inverter to see what that shows.

To my knowledge it won't run off the inverter, must be run off the genny or shore power.

My symptom was Error Code 3 or 7, either one, but with no pattern. It NEVER occurred off of shore power but was every time when we ran the generator. I assumed it was a bad generator, went to Onan, had it checked, they insisted the wave it was producing was "perfect, better then shore power" and frankly it looked like it on the scope when they showed me.

After some back and forth with Entegra and Whirlpool pushing on each other, Whirlpool admitted their board was the problem (I gathered a design flaw, not damage or a faulty part) and Entegra replaced it at Middlebury. This started in August of 2014 and wasn't resolved until January of 2015.

Run it on genny and shore both, many times since then with no problem at all.

[Misty123]

Don, I sent you the manual. Section six has all the different test that can be run for the different codes.

[757driver]

Originally Posted by Misty123

Don, I sent you the manual. Section six has all the different test that can be run for the different codes.

Tadd,

Got it thanks.

[757driver]

Update. Got back on shore power this week and everything on the washer works fine. It appears that mine as well does not like generator power, go figure. No more doing laundry in the desert.

[brobox]

Thanks for that update Don.

[MxChief66-1]

Although we get the A10 doing a normal wash on either shore or Genny, we have had no no problem with short loads using either source.

[brobox]

Originally Posted by MxChief66-1

Although we get the A10 doing a normal wash on either shore or Genny, we have had no no problem with short loads using either source.

If this helps, the A10 code is a drainage issue which is suppose to be a dirty filter.
DW changed brands of He laundry detergent. Apparently the the new brand created more suds in the drain and threw the A10 code. After having the filter apart several time to find it clean...had her cut back on the amount of the new detergent, the A10 code stopped. That sensor must be very sensitive.

[MxChief66-1]

Originally Posted by brobox

If this helps, the A10 code is a drainage issue which is suppose to be a dirty filter.
DW changed brands of He laundry detergent. Apparently the the new brand created more suds in the drain and threw the A10 code. After having the filter apart several time to find it clean...had her cut back on the amount of the new detergent, the A10 code stopped. That sensor must be very sensitive.

This washer has to have the cleanest filter system of any residential unit we've owned. We've messed with the type/qnty of soap and no change. What puzzles me is only happens on the "Normal" cycle!!

[MxChief66-1]

Originally Posted by MxChief66-1

This washer has to have the cleanest filter system of any residential unit we've owned. We've messed with the type/qnty of soap and no change. What puzzles me is only happens on the "Normal" cycle!!

Sitting here at MHSRV waiting to find out if parts are available for our washer. Turns out whirlpool has a bunch of defective boards causing an A10 code only on certain cycles. Due to demand there's a 2 week wait for a new board!

[RubiconTrail]

Interesting. The A-10 code is, I believe, mis-reported earlier in this thread. A-10 is actually a "no water" code. You can test this by turning off the water supply to the washer and trying to run a load...it will throw the A-10 code.

My CS had an A-10 code that showed up in the first 5-10 wash cycles after it was new and got worse over time/use to the point that it was every wash. Removed the dryer and got to the washer, removed the top, and found a connection that wasn't quite plugged in properly on the board end of the water solenoid harness.

TIP: IF you pull the washer and remove the kick panel (it just pops off), there is a set of paper repair instructions with a list of codes and an "if-then" flow chart for repair that is specific to your appliance.

[Ready2Travel]

Entegra needs to make some modifications to the 44/45B models to make it easier to remove the washer and dryer for service. Even the kick panel on the bottom of the washer is a pain to get to.

[RubiconTrail]

Posted this separately on purpose. The procedure I talked about for removing the dryer above is semi-right, but the entire face frame of the cabinet does not have to be removed. This is correct for a 45B, might vary for other floor plans:

As always, unplug the appliances first. At the same time remove the panel in the closet to get to the supply hoses.

1. Remove the valance around the window over the toilet to give you some clearance.

2. Remove the led light lens from the ceiling.

3. If you have the wood vent cover on the ceiling remove that (unscrew the hinge).

4. Remove the cabinet doors, marking which side goes where (they are identical doors in terms of symmetry, but don't hang right if the sides are switched)

5. Remove the dial from the front of the dryer.

6. Remove the cover button and screw from either side of the face frame lintel (the piece of the cabinet face frame that goes over the top of the washer/dryer). Slide this piece up and back until it is lying flat on the top of the dryer.

7. You will see a piece of aluminum angle that secures the top of the dryer to the ceiling. Remove the single screw in the center of the aluminum angle.

8. Remove the three screws on the white painted bracket at the bottom of the dryer. Rock the dryer backward and slide the piece of face frame down the front of the dryer. It will stop when it hits the dryer start button on the left and the dryer switch shaft on the right (the knob was removed earlier).

9. VERY CAREFULLY jimmy the piece of face frame past the start button and shaft until it resides below them against the front of the dryer. Now you have clearance to remove the wooden stop at the ceiling. Do so with a screw gun and a long shaft square drive and remove it.

10. Using a putty knife and a mallet, remove the piece of angle from the top of the dryer. It is epoxied on but comes off with a little bit of effort.

11. Now slide the lintel upward past the start switch and shaft until it is again on top of the dryer. Now you can turn it sideways and remove it.

12. Lift the front of the dryer above the white three hole bracket and slide it forward until it "unhooks" from the rear bracket, which you can see through the panel removed from the closet.

13. Unscrew the single screw that barely holds the dryer vent hose on.

14. This is the two person part...one person sits on the toilet and supports the dryer from the bottom while the other pulls the dryer out of the cabinet. Once it is in your lap it is easy to maneuver between the two of you.

The washer controls can be accessed by removing the top. It has three Phillips screws in the back of it that allow the top to come off as you pull the back up and the front forward.

If you need to remove the washer it is technically easy at this point. Shut off and remove the hoses from back, unplug, remove the three screws from the piece of white plastic at the front base of the washer, and remove it. It's heavy and will take two or three strong people to get it out.

When replacing the dryer, do the opposite, except I would recommend cleaning the epoxy off and using high quality double stick tape to hold the aluminum angle to the top of the washer (the gray 3M with the red backing is awesome stuff, body shops have it, or Napa, I believe). DO NOT put it on until the dryer is set in place and the wooden block is screwed to the ceiling, then apply the tape, place the angle against the block, and slide down until it sticks to the top of the dryer. Then put in the single screw.

[RubiconTrail]

Originally Posted by Ready2Travel

Entegra needs to make some modifications to the 44/45B models to make it easier to remove the washer and dryer for service. Even the kick panel on the bottom of the washer is a pain to get to.

I can't disagree, it's a bitch. Not sure what they could do different, though.