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Old 10-26-2020, 08:04 PM   #1
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Wire path to breakers?

OK, I have a new project, because what is life without projects? Personal life is good, so must change the coach for drama, right?

Anyway, I'll have more posts in the future, but my current question is, how to run a wire for a new circuit to the breaker box over the driver? I have an Anthem 44A; said plan has the kitchen on the driver side. I want to run a 10-4 cable from the breaker box into the left side slide. Using the handy-dandy borescope (you NEED one of these, and not just for inspecting your exhaust bellows), it appears that all the wiring in the slide runs to a hole about in the middle, under the sink. (The 44A has, in the driver slide, fireplace/audio-video equipment/TV/desk and then the kitchen.)

I have figured out the breaker system, and it is interesting, but that can wait until I write a thread for the whole project. Suffice it to say that I am moving some circuits and adding one.

Under the sink, there is a hole drilled into what appears to be a wire chase. The hole is stuffed, so I would need to add a new hole next to it. No big deal - I own a drill. However, I am having some trouble tracing the wire path. My Aspire was open to view, but the Anthem had to get all fancy and screw covers over everything, so unless I want to lay on my pack half into a bay and undo a myriad of screws, I can't tell what is under there, (Well, actually, over there, as I'm looking up.)

So, can anyone tell me what the wire path is from the breaker box to the driver side slide? I'm not getting younger, and I can beg a lot more easily than I can contort myself.
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Old 10-27-2020, 08:57 AM   #2
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Sorry, DeeGee, I can't offer you specific to your model wire path info.

I do have a photo showing wire path routing in my '18 Anthem 42DEQ.

Click on image to enlarge.
Click image for larger version

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Also, note that on the 42DEQ that the kitchen is in the passenger side slideout.

Good luck in your path pursuit.

Take care,
Stu
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:37 AM   #3
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I have a 45A, which is the same floorplan and was present at the factory the 3 weeks it was built so I've seen when and where they run their wires.

There is a chase that runs into the center of the slide but there is a bundle of A/V and 12 volt wires that goes through there. You won't be able to fish any additional wires through there. You would have to remove the entire bundle to add anew wire and then fish it back in through the chase. You don't want to do that though because the ends go all over liker an octopus once they enter the slideout and are run continuous from source to target to eliminate any issues with bad connections later on.

But if you look at the left side of the galley you'll find a wooden cover with rubber flap that moves with the slideout. If you remove that you'll see the looped Aqua-Hot PEX lines that feed the heat exchanger under the galley sink. They enter from a cutout in the wall between the galley and mid-bath along with some wiring. After they pass through the wall they go down through the cabinet under the vanity into the basement area. If you remove the bottom floor in the galley sink cabinet you'll be able to see where the wires enter the slideout.

Like you, I plan on adding an additional circuit. We have a Wolf countertop oven that can trip a breaker if too much stuff is on in the galley (toaster, etc) so I plan on repurposing the 20 amp circuit from the cooktop to an additional galley outlet for that oven. Then I will run a new 240 volt circuit to the cooktop, which will be replaced with a Wolf cooktop. I plan on running that new Romex up from the basement into the mid-bath cabinet, through the wall chase, and into the galley sink cabinet to feed the new cooktop.

I haven't decided on how to source the power yet though. The breaker panel wiring is really tight. I can loosen and pull the two breaker panels out a bit but it might be tough to feed a new Romex into the panel. Plus a 240 volt circuit requires both the X and Y phases and I don't have two adjacent breaker panel slots with opposing poles so I would have to use two single pole breakers and separate them. Then there's the issue of getting the power down from the breaker panel into the basement. It would have to pass forward from the panels and then down through the windshield A pillar trim, into the dash area, then down into the front cap area, and then back to the basement area beneath the mid-bath. The other option is to add a separate two slot sub-panel box in the basement and tap it directly into the transfer switch. That would be easier but if you shut off the main breakers you'll still have to switch off the new sub-panel if you want to totally kill the power because the new cooktop is now on a parallel system.

Anyway, I hope this helps a bit with how the wiring is laid out and gives you some ideas.
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Old 10-27-2020, 01:24 PM   #4
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Thanks for the information; it will be helpful. As far as adding the circuit, here is what I'm doing.

The left panel is a Progressive Dynamics PD5500 series. It's a PD55K000, The last digit shows the configuration, which is five circuits on each leg, interleaved. For 240 volts you need to grab both legs. The 10 slots are

leg 1 20 Basement
leg 2 20 Dryer
leg 1 20/20 Stove/Middle AC
leg 2 30 Inverter 1
leg 1 50 Main leg 1
leg 2 50 Main leg 2
leg 1 30/20 Inverter 2/Rear AC
leg 2 20/20 Front AC/Water heater
leg 1 20 Washer
leg 2 20 Fireplace

I will replace the 30 amp inverter 1 with a tandem 30/20, and move the fireplace to share that space. As both are on the same leg, this does not change the load. Then I'll move the washer circuit to the vacant slot. This does place the washer on the other leg, and it now shares a leg with the dryer, so I may fiddle some more with it before finalizing, such as swapping the basement and dryer circuits so they change legs. But the goal is to have the slot empty right after the 20/20 tandem breaker. I will replace that breaker with a 20/30/30/20 breaker where the two 30s are tied together. This gives me a 30 amp 240 volt circuit and two 20 amp circuits, using 2 slots.

The current configuration has 130 amps total on leg 1 and 110 on leg 2. If I swap the basement and dryer, and move the rest as stated above, I end up with (potentially) 160 amps on leg 1 and 140 on leg 2. Now, we all know that we don't HAVE 160 amps available (or even 130, as with the current configuration). It just means that I must pay attention to what is being run.

For example, I want the washer and dryer on separate legs because they will often run at the same time. I rarely use the electric water heater circuit, as the diesel burner is far stronger, so that is not really a concern. I never use the fireplace, but I am keeping the circuit to drive a new project later (built-in espresso machine). Although the circuit is wired for 20 amps, the draw will be well under 10 for that circuit.

leg 1 20 Dryer
leg 2 20 Basement
leg 1 20/20 Stove/Middle AC
leg 2 30/20 Inverter 1/Espresso
leg 1 50 Main leg 1
leg 2 50 Main leg 2
leg 1 30/20 Inverter 2/Rear AC
leg 2 20/30 Front AC/Oven
leg 1 30/20 Oven/Water heater
leg 2 20 Washer

It's interesting that you are putting a 220 volt cooktop in. I had not considered this. My idea here is to remove the dishwasher and install an oven. The overhead microwave/oven just isn't all that great for serious baking. While I am installign a 30 amp circuit, one of the two candidate ovens needs only 20, further reducing the load. But now you have me thinking of cooktops....
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Old 10-27-2020, 01:30 PM   #5
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Reading more in your post, it looks like the biggest sticking point is to figure if I can get a Romex cable into the circuit box, from the basement. The other end is much easier to handle. Can't do like cut-rate house wiring and drill through to the exterior, then run along the outside!
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Old 10-27-2020, 03:48 PM   #6
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What I did, which I'm really happy with, is to keep the existing stove wiring, but change it to 220 volt. The copper romex is already sized for 20 amps, if you change it to 220V, you double the power and get 20 amp on each leg. I installed two 220V professional grade 20 amp induction hobs (Nemco DIPO BKT26-A) using the existing wiring. Changed the breakers to give 220 V, changed the outlet under the sink so someone doesn't plug into it accidentally, and a fair bit of work with a router and carbide tips to cut out the countertop for the hobs to recess into, but works really great, is worlds different that the cruddy little induction cook top that comes standard. The "downside" would be that you can't use the cook top unless you have 220V service. Which is typical for us when plugged in 50 amp, and just have to start the generator if not. The trouble with a residential Wolf-type range is that it draws too much current. In a house, those thing typically have a 50 amp service just for themselves. Try it at a campsite and an AC or two plus the range will blow the post breaker.
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Old 10-27-2020, 04:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeeGee View Post
Reading more in your post, it looks like the biggest sticking point is to figure if I can get a Romex cable into the circuit box, from the basement. The other end is much easier to handle. Can't do like cut-rate house wiring and drill through to the exterior, then run along the outside!
Probably could, but wouldn’t look very good!
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