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Old 07-12-2019, 11:54 PM   #1
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Battery Boost Not Working

Hi there, We have the typical phantom discharge problem with our 2015 View 24M on a Mercedes 3500 chassis. Our trickle charger stopped working and we didn't realize it until the chassis battery was stone-cold-dead.

First thing we noticed, the key wouldn't turn in the ignition. After some coaxing it moved. Then, we tried to use the battery boost button to crank the engine and no luck. We could hear the "clicking" of the boost button. The engine would not crank.

We have a different trickle charger hooked up to the chassis battery now. When we try to turn the key now (after about 30 minutes on the trickle charger and chassis showing 11.7 volts), the dash lights are flashing randomly and still no crank of the engine. Even more disturbing is the battery boost will still not work. The house batteries are steady at 13.2 volts.

We've used the battery boost a few times in the past with no problem.

What do you all think is happening here? Are we in for a whole new electronic setup from Mercedes? We did recently have the steering wheel button recall done. Can't imagine there is a connection though.
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Old 07-13-2019, 12:22 AM   #2
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It would take 4-5 hours for a 15 amp 110v auto battery charger to charge you chassis battery. A trickle charger will never do the job on a fully depleted battery.
Even battery boost will not overcome a fully depleted battery.
You need a 10 to 15 amp battery charger. Higher amp charger would cost to much for this job.
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:12 AM   #3
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Sorry you have had problems but what is going on is very well known and there are several remedies available. The easiest, and least expensive, is to wait 10 minutes after you turn the engine off, and disconnect the chassis battery. Just above your accelerator pedal is the disconnect.

If you have solar or leave your motorhome plugged in, then adding a Tric-L-Start will keep your chassis battery charged.
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Old 07-13-2019, 10:10 AM   #4
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I don't know about the 2015 View 24M chassis. Would the engine computer have to relearn when it had power restored?
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Old 07-13-2019, 12:51 PM   #5
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Thanks for the information!

After letting the chassis battery sit on the charger overnight, we were up to 11.8 volts on the meter. Still not enough juice to turn over the engine. Tried the boost and still no success.

We pulled out the volt meter and amp meter to test the battery booster lines under the passenger's seat. We've discovered the boost button is working intermittently. Even though the solenoid seems to be "clicking" when the button is pushed, it's only sending power sporadically.

We pulled the car over and went retro: we used the old-fashioned jumper cables. Like magic, the rig started right up. No issues with the dash lights blinking or check engine light stuck on. We are considering buying a new chassis battery if the existing battery doesn't hold a charge.

We are now looking at the faulty solenoid for the battery boost. We are glad this incident happened in the driveway and not while we were sitting in some remote location. We are now asking ourselves, what would we have done if we were dry camping in a remote location. Would we have sat there with the generator running and the trickle charger plugged in? Would we have been able to bypass the faulty solenoid and get the boost to work?

Love to hear your ideas on where we go from here and what do you do if this happens in the "wilds."
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Old 07-13-2019, 05:49 PM   #6
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I carry a 24" spare battery cable with lugs on each end. In the event the cables on a failed solenoid wouldn't reach across to make contact, the spare cable could be used to "jump" the solenoid.

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Old 07-13-2019, 07:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WinnieSue View Post
Thanks for the information!

After letting the chassis battery sit on the charger overnight, we were up to 11.8 volts on the meter. Still not enough juice to turn over the engine. Tried the boost and still no success.

We pulled out the volt meter and amp meter to test the battery booster lines under the passenger's seat. We've discovered the boost button is working intermittently. Even though the solenoid seems to be "clicking" when the button is pushed, it's only sending power sporadically.

We pulled the car over and went retro: we used the old-fashioned jumper cables. Like magic, the rig started right up. No issues with the dash lights blinking or check engine light stuck on. We are considering buying a new chassis battery if the existing battery doesn't hold a charge.

We are now looking at the faulty solenoid for the battery boost. We are glad this incident happened in the driveway and not while we were sitting in some remote location. We are now asking ourselves, what would we have done if we were dry camping in a remote location. Would we have sat there with the generator running and the trickle charger plugged in? Would we have been able to bypass the faulty solenoid and get the boost to work?

Love to hear your ideas on where we go from here and what do you do if this happens in the "wilds."

There are several limited usage (they're only good for one or two boosts before they start to fail) battery boosters that are lithium based high amperage "batteries" that you charge up at home, and carry with you as another "car battery" to boost yours from, if necessary. Many auto parts stores sell them, probably Walmart and the other big box stores, too. Emergency battery boosters.

Alternately, if you can access your coach battery terminals/posts, and know where the chassis battery boost points are (apparently you do?) - you could get a set of booster cables long enough to bridge the gap between the 2 battery sets to boost the chassis directly from the coach battery(ies?). Skip the battery boost solenoid entirely. I believe there are sets of booster cables that are close to 20 feet long. Tow trucks use them to boost parked vehicle batteries that are nosed into a parking space, or other wise difficult to reach.
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:36 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by GMoore View Post
I don't know about the 2015 View 24M chassis. Would the engine computer have to relearn when it had power restored?
No, if you wait the 10 minutes (per Mercedes) all of the operating parameters at shut down are stored. While you wait for the yellow glow plug light to go out, everything is reloaded and you are ready to go.
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