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Old 08-18-2022, 08:01 PM   #1
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Onan QD3200 OIL TEMP-PRESS problem

So, our Onan QD3200 has been cutting out all day with a OIL TEMP-PRESS alert. Oil full, replaced the air filter. Tried the temp sensor-outside trick and it runs longer.

BUT (here's what I don't understand), the generator shuts off about 3-5 mins after I shut off the motorhome motor. And it won't restart w/o the motorhome motor running. What could this be? Anyone seen this before?

Thanks,
Bob

P.S. have a 2017 Jayco Melbourne 24K (Sprinter chassis)
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Old 08-18-2022, 08:04 PM   #2
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I think the generator starts off the coach batteries. How good are they?
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Old 08-19-2022, 03:23 PM   #3
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Yes, I'm sure it starts off of the coach batteries, thus my confusion about starting the chassis motor to get the generator to start.

I thought the coach battery was good, just installed last year, but I'll have it checked tomorrow.

Thanks,
Bob
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Old 08-19-2022, 03:33 PM   #4
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I suggested it because the engine alternator may be carrying the start up load while starting the generator, as it charges the coach batteries, under normal designs.
Not sure why withdrawing that level of coach battery charging/boost would make the generator die. Unless there's a dead cell in the coach battery and it's messing up normal operation of the genset somehow. I'm not sure either.
Sorry, can't be more help.
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Old 08-19-2022, 03:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shumar View Post
So, our Onan QD3200 has been cutting out all day with a OIL TEMP-PRESS alert. Oil full, replaced the air filter. Tried the temp sensor-outside trick and it runs longer.

BUT (here's what I don't understand), the generator shuts off about 3-5 mins after I shut off the motorhome motor. And it won't restart w/o the motorhome motor running. What could this be? Anyone seen this before?

Thanks,
Bob

P.S. have a 2017 Jayco Melbourne 24K (Sprinter chassis)
Did the generator ever work without overheating in summer temps? I am having the same issue when it's really hot out as in triple digits, my temp sensor is actually part of the oil pressure switch so the two pieces screw into the crank case (My QD 3200 is a 2011) so moving the temp sensor to outside air isn't an option for me. I'm not the original owner so I don't know if this has always been an issue but I suspect so with all the reports of these air cooled units overheating.
My thoughts are maybe the air flow since the location is pretty restrictive and the mud flap tends to blow back and restrict air flow even more so I made a couple of mods, cut 3 holes for air in the steel above the mud flap and added a 2,200 CFM 7" cooling fan from Summit Racing. Made a foul weather cover for the holes. Have not had a chance to try it out yet but fingers crossed.
Someone else suggested switching to synthetic oil, don't know if that would really help, as far as I know synthetic oil can handle heat better without breaking down but doesn't actually run cooler than Dino.
There is also the issue of the hot air circling back to the intake which is a real possibility the way air currents swirl under a vehicle on the highway, thinking about making a baffle for that.
Last pic is with mud flap removed but you can see how close it would be to the cooling air intake.
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Old 08-19-2022, 03:43 PM   #6
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Bad connection on coach battery, switch off on coach battery, failed ( dead ) coach battery or bad converter/charger not charging the coach battery.

When engine is running, the coach and chassis batteries are combined together, supplying power to the generator circuit.

When you shut it off, the combining/ isolation solenoid opens and the generator no longer has power to its controls. Generators depend on coach charging systems to run their electronics. Most don't have 12 volt charging systems.
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Old 08-20-2022, 09:24 AM   #7
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Update

Thanks everyone!

So far, I've moved the temp sensor outside, and its still stopping, so its doesn't appear (?) that its the temp.

I did have the battery checked and its good/great. Thanks for the info on the likely charging system. Somehow that seems(?) to have an effect on whatever is going on.

Today I'm going to replace the fuel filter - fuel is the last easy variable that I can think of.

Given the varying error messages, is there a control board in the generator that can be reset to factory or something?
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Old 08-20-2022, 09:27 AM   #8
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Until the generator starts with out the engine running, your chasing your tail.
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Old 08-21-2022, 08:27 AM   #9
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Until the generator starts with out the engine running, your chasing your tail.
This is for sure. I'm about out of tail to chase, haha.

Everything seems to be working that you mentioned in your prior message to keep the coach battery charged.

The last tail on the list is to clean all of the connections. started with the coach battery terminals, trying to figure out where if most effective to follow and clean from there.
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Old 08-21-2022, 08:41 AM   #10
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This is for sure. I'm about out of tail to chase, haha.

Everything seems to be working that you mentioned in your prior message to keep the coach battery charged.

The last tail on the list is to clean all of the connections. started with the coach battery terminals, trying to figure out where if most effective to follow and clean from there.
Give the cables at the lug/clamp ends a good tug, to see if they've corroded inside the lugs or clamps. I had a bad cable years ago, literally turn to green powder inside a lug/clamp. The copper stranded wire had slowly oxidized and turned green and it pulled out, by accident, when I was trying to trace a similar problem on my Roadtrek. Couldn't see it by looking, it had to be pulled on to get it to separate.
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Old 08-21-2022, 09:01 AM   #11
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control panel compartment filled with mud

Oh, and did anyone else notice how the control panel and wiring interconnect compartment (to the right when facing the generator) has a set of cooling holes that on my Jayco Melbourne 24K (Sprinter chassis) directly face the front right tire? inside the compartment the wires are covered in mud and probably road salt. the dozens of connectors in there are probably all suspect too.

Is this common? Seems like anytime this model generator is mounting on the "starboard" side of the coach it would ingest high velocity road debris into this compartment.
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Old 08-21-2022, 09:10 AM   #12
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Oh, and did anyone else notice how the control panel and wiring interconnect compartment (to the right when facing the generator) has a set of cooling holes that on my Jayco Melbourne 24K (Sprinter chassis) directly face the front right tire? inside the compartment the wires are covered in mud and probably road salt. the dozens of connectors in there are probably all suspect too.

Is this common? Seems like anytime this model generator is mounting on the "starboard" side of the coach it would ingest high velocity road debris into this compartment.
Do you have a mud flap? Mine is set up the same way but there is no mud or debris in that area, see pics in my first post (mud flap is removed for pic)

edit: mine is directly behind the right rear duals, it sounds like yours is up behind the front tire?
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Old 08-21-2022, 11:11 AM   #13
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Do you have a mud flap? Mine is set up the same way but there is no mud or debris in that area, see pics in my first post (mud flap is removed for pic)

edit: mine is directly behind the right rear duals, it sounds like yours is up behind the front tire?
Mine is right in front of the dualies, so it is not really protected by the front tire mudflaps, its too far back.

It's quite a bummer, its so tight in there that cleaning everything will be literally painful.
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Old 08-27-2022, 10:30 PM   #14
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all clean terminals & lugs, still gen won't run w/o chassis motor running

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Originally Posted by Winterbagoal View Post
Give the cables at the lug/clamp ends a good tug, to see if they've corroded inside the lugs or clamps. I had a bad cable years ago, literally turn to green powder inside a lug/clamp. The copper stranded wire had slowly oxidized and turned green and it pulled out, by accident, when I was trying to trace a similar problem on my Roadtrek. Couldn't see it by looking, it had to be pulled on to get it to separate.
OK, so after much lug and terminal cleaning - lowered the resistance between battery and generator from .2 ohm to .1 ohm, but unfortunately that made no difference in the "must have chassis engine running" behavior. So, at this point it is the 1-year-old-load-tests-fine house battery, or a supreme mystery. Cummins says they can't look at the generator until Nov, too busy repairing other Cummins motors 😐.
Any other thoughts?
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