Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE CHASSIS CLUB FORUMS > Sprinter Chassis Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-20-2015, 10:52 PM   #15
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 24
What is a battery tender and where can I get one? Can I install this myself?
Trik-l- start. Does this have to be installed by an RV mechanic?
mransford is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 12-22-2015, 07:35 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: The hilly part of Texas
Posts: 468
M,

First, you need 24/7 access to 110V AC power.

Trickl-Start is a bit more complicated but has its utility. It requires 110V to power the on board charger to keep the coach batteries charged. The Trick-L-Charger cleverly hard wires to the coach batteries and chassis battery. It and syphons off energy as needed from the coach to keep the chassis battery fully charged. Charger>coach battery>chassis battery. You can see why you need 110 24/7. If not you would have all batteries dead...

Shumacher, Battery Tender, Battery Minder are brands that make clip on or plug in "maintainers." Some maintainers will charge, maintain and cycle through a de-sulphating mode. Today they are all computer controlled and should not "over charge" the battery like the old school units.

RVs are problematic since the chassis battery is separated electrically and physically from the coach batteries. It's a good thing. Except when the engine is running then they are connected to charge all batteries. The chassis battery on Sprinter is beside the driver's right leg .. In a compartment under the floor. Not easy to get to.

You can...I think .... Hook up to the "jumper" connections under hood. The other solution is to use a maintainer with an accessory plug adapter and use the 300W accessory port at the bottom of the dash. It is "always hot!" It's what I've done.

Depending on "state of charge" and your maintainer it may take a few hours to top up and begin maintaining the chassis battery. You can check status by using the "One Point" panel and battery levels.

You can also do the same thing with a plug in solar panel. If you got sun.
Old Crows is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2015, 10:23 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Camper Ken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 491
Quote:
Originally Posted by mransford View Post
What is a battery tender and where can I get one? Can I install this myself?
Trik-l- start. Does this have to be installed by an RV mechanic?
Battery Tender:
Battery Tender® Plus
(As noted this is not for sale in California or Oregon. Something to do with the fact it's always "on" when plugged in so it's always drawing a small amount of current. Not a safety hazard, but more about being "green" and energy friendly. Despite this fact I've seen them for sale in Oregon at Home Depot. I bought mine about ten years ago when they were still more readily available in Oregon.)

Trik-L-Start:
Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer

As you'll see on the website, the Trik-L-Start looks to be easy to install if you understand basic wiring and your battery isolator.
__________________
2016 Itasca Navion 24J (Mercedes 3500 chassis)
Camper Ken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2015, 07:07 AM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: The hilly part of Texas
Posts: 468
Needs to purchase the compliant "energy efficient" models....... Or, following the rule.....get one out of state while on a trip; use it once; bring it home....it qualifies as a "used" product. OTOH, I'd opt for the energy efficient model. Same price... It might have more precise charging/maintaining ability because it has a better "chip."

Regarding the Trik-L-Chager. It's battery bank to chassis battery connected. We have to remember that on a Sprinter the chassis battery is in a sealed .... like no access .... except through the very tight, gas tight, cable gaps... The box is under the carpet to the immediate right of the driver's seat. Then, under the fitted rubber floor mat. It has a screwed down gas tight cover. The sealed battery is gas vented by a special plastic hose under the van. "+" battery cable comes out from under the lid in a protective conduit and leads to the long term storage disconnect by the gas pedal. There is very little room inside that box.

Having replaced the battery once in my '10.... It is NOT something you want to tackle unless you need to replace the battery.

The coach batteries are under the steps on the opposite side of the RV. Running connections under the van & over the exhaust pipe, catalytic converter and drive shaft will be a challenge.... Then you have to get it inside the battery box. This is not a trivial exercise.

I'd really nervous about attaching things to the battery, especially when you can't see and inspect the connections on a regular basis. Sketchy potentially "hot" connections in a place I can't see? Well, my OCD kicks in......

I love redundancy. If something goes south with your coach battery's charger or its shore power and you don't know it....the T-L-S is likely to flatten three batteries in time. Then you are up a creek without a paddle. You can't even start the generator. There's good reason to keep the coach and chassis battery systems separated ... Except when you absolutely need to harness them together in exceptional situations.

I like to keep things simple. I plug my maintainer into the "always hot" accessory plug on the center console. Use a drop line to power it from a 110V source. Check SoC at the "One Point" on the wall. Simple. Easy-peasy. I only have to wrangle the drop line and adaptor plug. Literally a plug and play set up.









Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper Ken View Post
Battery Tender:
Battery Tender® Plus
(As noted this is not for sale in California or Oregon. Something to do with the fact it's always "on" when plugged in so it's always drawing a small amount of current. Not a safety hazard, but more about being "green" and energy friendly. Despite this fact I've seen them for sale in Oregon at Home Depot. I bought mine about ten years ago when they were still more readily available in Oregon.)

Trik-L-Start:
Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer

As you'll see on the website, the Trik-L-Start looks to be easy to install if you understand basic wiring and your battery isolator.
Old Crows is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2015, 04:50 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Camper Ken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 491
Looking at the Trik-L-Start instructions it is installed to the appropriate connections on the battery isolator relay rather than directly to the house and chassis batteries. I think the Trik-L-Start only allows current flow in one direction which would prevent chassis battery drain if shore power was lost.
__________________
2016 Itasca Navion 24J (Mercedes 3500 chassis)
Camper Ken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2015, 05:08 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Camper Ken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 491
Old Crows,
I connected my Battery Tender through the 12v power port on my previous W'bago. I asked Mercedes customer service about doing that with my Navion and they recommended against it saying one doesn't know what else the upfitter may have wired to the power port. Currently I have my battery tender under the hood connected to the remote terminals for the chassis battery. Sounds like you've had no problem connecting through the 12v port, so I may do that too since it's more convenient than running a separate extension cord to the under the hood location.
__________________
2016 Itasca Navion 24J (Mercedes 3500 chassis)
Camper Ken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-24-2015, 05:17 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: The hilly part of Texas
Posts: 468
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper Ken View Post
Looking at the Trik-L-Start instructions it is installed to the appropriate connections on the battery isolator relay rather than directly to the house and chassis batteries. I think the Trik-L-Start only allows current flow in one direction which would prevent chassis battery drain if shore power was lost.
Ken, that indeed is another option.....

I'm really freaky about patching 'stuff' into the RV electrical system. Although, WBGO does have some online schematics that may be helpful. We assume the guys on the WBGO line have followed the skee-matics...... or maybe they had some running changes and never bothered to update the information. Cross-circuiting to "B".... as in the old Star Trek ..... may not be advisable.

I figured that using the Accessory plug was a safe option (vs. the under hood PITA set up). Since it's hot all the time, it probably doesn't have any 'parasites' sucking power out of the line..... or your battery would be flattened in time.

But to each his own poison.....

Merry Christmas, Bud!
Old Crows is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-25-2015, 06:16 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Camper Ken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 491
Old Crows,
You've given me reason to pause and rethink the idea of a Trik-L-Start. At first thought it sounded like a good idea - install it and forget it. Since I already have the Battery Tender, and based on yur experience with your View, I'm going back to plugging it into the 12volt power port rather than hooking it to the battery via the underhood connections. Thanks.
__________________
2016 Itasca Navion 24J (Mercedes 3500 chassis)
Camper Ken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2015, 10:05 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: The hilly part of Texas
Posts: 468
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper Ken View Post
Old Crows,
You've given me reason to pause and rethink the idea of a Trik-L-Start. At first thought it sounded like a good idea - install it and forget it. Since I already have the Battery Tender, and based on yur experience with your View, I'm going back to plugging it into the 12volt power port rather than hooking it to the battery via the underhood connections. Thanks.
Bored, I am..... I re-visited the Trik-L-Start information and installation information. It REALLY is neat as hell..... and easy to install.... if you don't have a Sprinter with the 'entombed' chassis battery. And, it's only going to work so long without shore power charging the house battery.

Although they put the whip-spiffy LED status lights on the device. They don't do much good when the gadget is buried under the steps or under the bonnet. They need a remote 'pendant' display like the one for the Progressive Dynamics charger/converter. A minor criticism, I know.

Tick-L-Start was apparently a WBGO OEM factory option or add on .....NINE years ago on certain models. I suspect Class A's. Probably easy-peasy to install if you have easy access to the batteries and they are close together.

My intent on charging the chassis battery when parked at house is to periodically bring it up to a full charge as a protective measure for the battery. Long term partial charges aren't so good for batteries. It takes a couple hours of driving to bring the battery up to full state of charge.

The field expedient chargers are as good as access to 110V or solar power.

The WORSTist CASE. A DEAD chassis battery!!!! Our Views are now a very expensive boat anchors. Don't look at Zombies gathering around the RV!!!! You can't fire up the Benz ...but there are work arounds. WBGO built in redundancies, known and unknown.

OK .... chassis battery won't light the Sprinter. As long as the coach batteries are carrying a "just enough juice" ( 'just enough' to start the dang engine!). All you have to do is use the 'slave' switch on the dash board to momentarily 'lash' the coach and batteries together for engine start.

If the coach batteries are down and can't provide enough power for slave starting the Sprinter and the Zombies are now beating on the cabin doors ...... The chassis battery, even if nearly flat.... should have just enough power to fire off the generator. Then, generator>>>>charging coach batteries>>>> slave batteries>>> engine start.
.
Things have really gone to hell and the Zombies are ripping off the windshield wipers and punching holes in the coach and the chassis battery won't light the generator. I'd slave the three batteries and punch the generator start as a 'Hail Mary' attempt to get the generator running. (Gonna take two folks or duct tape to hold the switch in to do that!) Much like starting the Benz but takes a lot less juice.....

Once the genny is churning and batteries rising, you can slave to the chassis and light up the Benz. Now you got real re-charging power.....

As a last resort.... you have the 'jumper' connections under hood. An emergency power pack starter will get you going. I carry one in the RV. (This will be a 'crew' effort.... rigging the jumper, punching the starter and fighting off the Zombie hoards....)

{{I didn't have a 'slave' switch on my Ventura. It would have been most convenient when the chassis battery went south}}}}
Old Crows is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2015, 06:43 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Camper Ken's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Crows View Post
Bored, I am..... I re-visited the Trik-L-Start information and installation information. It REALLY is neat as hell..... and easy to install.... if you don't have a Sprinter with the 'entombed' chassis battery. And, it's only going to work so long without shore power charging the house battery.

Although they put the whip-spiffy LED status lights on the device. They don't do much good when the gadget is buried under the steps or under the bonnet. They need a remote 'pendant' display like the one for the Progressive Dynamics charger/converter. A minor criticism, I know.

Tick-L-Start was apparently a WBGO OEM factory option or add on .....NINE years ago on certain models. I suspect Class A's. Probably easy-peasy to install if you have easy access to the batteries and they are close together.
The Trik-L-Start can be hooked up directly to the batteries OR installed to the two connections on the battery isolator solenoid which is located under the passenger seat. There is a YouTube video showing this method of installation. This way you don't need to have access directly to the chassis and house batteries.

The passenger seat needs to be removed to gain access to the isolator. The seat bolts are some type of star point bolts so the appropriate socket is needed. Overall it's a simple installation once you gain access to the battery isolator solenoid. One advantage of using the Trik_L-Start is it will keep the chassis battery charged without shore power if one has solar (as I do).

Still though, for now I'll stick with the Battery Tender when plugged into shore power at home.
__________________
2016 Itasca Navion 24J (Mercedes 3500 chassis)
Camper Ken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2017, 09:41 AM   #25
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 2
This is by far the best info I've found (along with the links provided) on the AC/Furnace on my 2011 Winnebago View. Very much appreciated!

Our View has been in the family since new, and consistently had LP furnace problems. After a couple hours of use, the LP furnace stops working on 12v or shore power. It went in under warrantee half a dozen times, but was never fixed. Once it was out of warrantee, I tried my hand at investigating it, only to find the dealer service had severely damaged the LP furnace. Winnebago was nice enough to send a new furnace to me which I installed, but the problems persisted. I've replaced the thermostat and the board on the (replacement) furnace. Ugh. I had a feeling that maybe it was working as programmed in the electronics, and when investigating I found this thread.

So a couple of quick questions:

- How do I know if I have a heat pump? Then thermostat has the "electric heat" switch, but the dealer said it didn't have an HP. I think they were wrong.

- If I'm plugged in to shore power, would the electronics turn off the LP furnace and try to use the HP, even if the thermostat is set to "gas heat" ??

- After all we've investigated and been through with it, I'm leaning towards replacing the LP regulator. As far as I can tell, that's the only thing that hasn't been replaced, and it could be intermittent. Thoughts?


I know this is old thread, but I hope some of you are still checking in on it.

Thank you!
-Dana


Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Crows View Post
It is possible the dealer did not set the "jumpers" or "dip" switches correctly on the thermostat or unit.

It is also possible you have a duff LP regulator.... Not unheard of... I know of three 2014/5s with duff regulators.

Auto switch to propane....Master outside near the LP tank "ON." LP switch inside, "ON."

Your View has a Coleman Mach 8 heat pump. Its complicated.... and your sales dude probably did a poor job explaining its operation.

First, RV HVAC systems are NOT like your home HVAC. They are much smaller capacity ... But they will do the job. Now the complicated part.... The HP works as an air conditioner in reverse. It will pump heat from outside to inside around 2 or 2.5 X efficiency (1 unit of energy = 2.5 BTU). About 35-45F its about 1:1 or a little less. At that point, you need supplemental heat. In your home a good old electric resistance heater strip cuts in (and the wheel on your electric meter spins like crazy!). In a View the supplement is the propane furnace. Now the complicated part... There is two heating systems..LP & HP and they work independently or in tandem depending on what the "brain" tells them to do.

The HP has a complicated algorithym governing when the furnace supplements....

(Assume you had the LP master ON and thermostat was in HP mode.)

If the room temperature is more than a couple degrees colder than the setting on the thermostat, the HP and the furnace operate together (warm air at ceiling and floor ducts) until ambient and thermostat match. At that point the HP will maintain the temperature and run as long and as often as necessary.

If the HP can't keep up, the LP will cut in and "boost" the temp back to setting.

Here's where it gets tricky... if the HP looses efficiency to the point that the LP has to run for a period of time or frequently AND the temps are 40F or less.... The computer shuts down the HP to protect it and View will only heat with LP. Because LP has lots of BTUs...it may cut in and out as necessary.

Meanwhile, the HP is "locked out" until it gets above 40F or for several hours. If it tries and fails to cut the mustard it will lock out and try again later....and later...and later...until it can produce enough heat and the LP is not used.

HPs will also go into a defrost cycle for the outside coil... Sometimes you may hear the switch over by the 'swooosh' of the freon cavitating in the valve manifold as it suddenly is forced to change directions. In defrost, it will use the LP as heat source. (In defrost cycle you may feel cold air coming out the ceiling ducts (it is working as an AC unit!) and hot air at the floor ducts).

If the thermostat is set on GAS mode the HP is locked out and only the LP furnace works.

And, all of that stuff is noisy!!!!

The work around is to get a small ceramic cube heater from WallyWorld. Its small enough wattage to use in the camper on shore power. Put up front in the lounge. It will keep the coach warm (cooler in back for sleeping) without overheating the coach. And it is QUIET. Basically free heat on shore power!

Another hint is when using the HP you can spoof the "brain" by turning the LP Master OFF. Then you are HP only but you have to keep an eye on outdoor temps and know when to get the LP back on.

Also, in HP put the fan on LO. On AC fan on HI.

STARTING. If you are using the radio or display in the dash...switch the power supply from chassis to house. Left on accidently or if key is on and radio on it will suck the life out of the chassis battery. Switch is next to boost switch...easy to leave in wrong position...

Drive with House Master Electric ON.

Again, its complicated .. There's three charging systems.....doin' different things.

Alternator ....charges chassis and house with motor running
Generator .....charges house & NOT chassis
Shore..... Charges house and chassis
dana171 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 06:55 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: The hilly part of Texas
Posts: 468
Quote:
Originally Posted by dana171 View Post
This is by far the best info I've found (along with the links provided) on the AC/Furnace on my 2011 Winnebago View. Very much appreciated!

Our View has been in the family since new, and consistently had LP furnace problems. After a couple hours of use, the LP furnace stops working on 12v or shore power. It went in under warrantee half a dozen times, but was never fixed. Once it was out of warrantee, I tried my hand at investigating it, only to find the dealer service had severely damaged the LP furnace. Winnebago was nice enough to send a new furnace to me which I installed, but the problems persisted. I've replaced the thermostat and the board on the (replacement) furnace. Ugh. I had a feeling that maybe it was working as programmed in the electronics, and when investigating I found this thread.

So a couple of quick questions:

- How do I know if I have a heat pump? Then thermostat has the "electric heat" switch, but the dealer said it didn't have an HP. I think they were wrong.

- If I'm plugged in to shore power, would the electronics turn off the LP furnace and try to use the HP, even if the thermostat is set to "gas heat" ??

- After all we've investigated and been through with it, I'm leaning towards replacing the LP regulator. As far as I can tell, that's the only thing that hasn't been replaced, and it could be intermittent. Thoughts?


I know this is old thread, but I hope some of you are still checking in on it.

Thank you!
-Dana
Hi Dana! 2011 View. Does it have a HP? I don't know. If you still have all the manuals, l'd start there with the Operator's Manual. Or hit the WBGO web page and search for manuals. It sorts by model and year.

The HP operates in the HEAT setting. Best read the manual for operation as it has some differences from your home HP. We haven't used ours much as a HP because it is noisy.

Being a 2011, it may have a 110V strip heater rather than a HP. Turn off the genny and unplug the shore power for safety. Carefully remove the grill/ panel covering the bottom of the unit inside the coach. You should be able see the heater in the return air plenum. "Most", if not all, HPs don't have a heat strip....probably due to AC power consumption issues.

LP heater.... If it works....probably all is well with the thermostat, programming and jumpers. I'd look at the fuel supply side. It could be the regulator is not up to snuff. It may not be adjusted to deliver the correct amount of vapor pressure for the furnace (like an LP genny, it is a high demand item). Could be a duff regulator. At 6 years it doesn't owe you anything. Maybe replacement and adjustment is in order?

Maybe....it is cutting out due to the 'hi-limit' switch cutting in? I'd look duct work, vents, and return path to make sure they are not obstructed. What I Can see of mine they look like a bag of snakes. (Yes...a future project to straighten and modestly shorten them where I can.). All vents/registers open and free of obstruction??? It needs air flow....

It would be a big PITA to access the unit....but a quick peek might help. Is there any scorching or charring on or in the unit? Inside the compartment? No ducts are mashed shut....???? That could be a clue to overheating.


External intake and exhaust ports unobstructed????

Clearly all the simple stuff here.

Frankly we use the LP furnace very little. If we have shore power we use a small ceramic cube heater (1600W) up in the lounge. It is QUIET and although slow it will maintain a comfort level throughout the coach.

I'd be interested in knowing what you find....good luck.
Old Crows is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 12:29 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: The hilly part of Texas
Posts: 468
Dana.... Forgot to answer one of your questions...

The Coleman Mach 8 heat pump does use the LP furnace to augment its performance. If you know HPs, they work well returning a lot of heat (btu) per unit of energy down to about 37F. Better than 2 for one! Below 40ish they slide down to 1:1 and need augmentation from strip heaters or the LP furnace to hold the line. So.....

The Mach 8 uses the LP furnace in a rather complicated algorithm to augment its lack of heating power below 40ish. The HP shuts down and the furnace cuts in. Now the complication.... If the computer realizes that the LP is running more often and the ambient is below 40ish, it will stop the HP function and run only on the furnace. So far so good. Its delivering heat and protecting the HP. The complication is that it will continue to monitor the situation and if conditions are still not right it will continue to hold the HP in standby. The system will cycle back and forth several times and if the HP can't cut it....the computer puts it back in standby and you use the furnace. It will try again at some time in the future. It will keep trying till the HP can hold its own. The problem ismthat it becomes annoying.....

Another reason why we use a ceramic cube heater instead of the HP or furnace.
Old Crows is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2017, 09:51 AM   #28
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 2
Old Crows, thanks a ton for the info. It helps so much to be able to bounce diagnostic ideas someone else. I really think this is a simple repeated case of bad dealer service, unfortunately.

I'll dive in again this weekend and investigate more, check ducts, etc. I did check the ducts when I installed the new furnace Winnebago sent to me after the warrantee expired. The furnace the dealer had worked on was dented, with broken tabs, smashed logic board and mounts, and all the fins were broken off the fan. I was pretty shocked when I saw it.

The dealer said there isn't a HP, but I think they're wrong. I'll confirm either way first thing.

Replacing the LP regulator is likely next on the list. Is there any brand or style regulator that's better than the others? I'm seeing mostly no-name products out there. Might as well get a pressure gauge, too.

> Clearly all the simple stuff here.

Exactly. That's the best place to start. Also likely why I think it's a fuel issue with the pressure or regulator. I went right to the more complex problems after I saw all the damage to the furnace caused by the dealer.

Thanks again.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Crows View Post
Dana.... Forgot to answer one of your questions...

The Coleman Mach 8 heat pump does use the LP furnace to augment its performance. If you know HPs, they work well returning a lot of heat (btu) per unit of energy down to about 37F. Better than 2 for one! Below 40ish they slide down to 1:1 and need augmentation from strip heaters or the LP furnace to hold the line. So.....

The Mach 8 uses the LP furnace in a rather complicated algorithm to augment its lack of heating power below 40ish. The HP shuts down and the furnace cuts in. Now the complication.... If the computer realizes that the LP is running more often and the ambient is below 40ish, it will stop the HP function and run only on the furnace. So far so good. Its delivering heat and protecting the HP. The complication is that it will continue to monitor the situation and if conditions are still not right it will continue to hold the HP in standby. The system will cycle back and forth several times and if the HP can't cut it....the computer puts it back in standby and you use the furnace. It will try again at some time in the future. It will keep trying till the HP can hold its own. The problem ismthat it becomes annoying.....

Another reason why we use a ceramic cube heater instead of the HP or furnace.
dana171 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
ems, problems



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2015 iRV2.com International Rally DriVer iRV2.com International Rally 107 10-07-2015 08:44 AM
2015 London Aire radiator problems Biverson Newmar Owner's Forum 28 08-13-2015 11:55 AM
Winnebago View 24m bed problems Donut lover Sprinter Chassis Forum 5 07-26-2015 10:25 PM
Thor Motor Coach at 2015 Tampa RV Show DriVer RV Industry Press 0 01-07-2015 07:45 PM
Another reason for Ride and Handling Problems Hikerdogs Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 13 11-07-2014 04:16 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.