Originally Posted by mransford
We just bought our 2015 Winnebago View Feb 2015. Ist time we took it out the air conditioner didn't work. Grrrr. The dealer put a whole new unit in. Now the heater doesn't work properly. We were told that if the outside is 36degrees or below you have to use the propane heater. The manual says it will automatically switch to propane. Last night it was 46 degrees and the heater was pulsing on then off. It didn't automatically switch to propane nor was it below 36 degrees. Finally just turned it off.
The other night it wouldn't start we had to use the boost. Now sometimes it sounds like it's not going to start.
Dang, its only got less than 1500 miles on it. We've only taken it out 3 times and not far at that.
Any others have this issue? Did we buy a lemon?
It is possible the dealer did not set the "jumpers" or "dip" switches correctly on the thermostat or unit.
It is also possible you have a duff LP regulator.... Not unheard of... I know of three 2014/5s with duff regulators.
Auto switch to propane....Master outside near the LP tank "ON." LP switch inside, "ON."
Your View has a Coleman Mach 8 heat pump. Its complicated.... and your sales dude probably did a poor job explaining its operation.
First, RV HVAC systems are NOT like your home HVAC. They are much smaller capacity ... But they will do the job. Now the complicated part.... The HP works as an air conditioner in reverse. It will pump heat from outside to inside around 2 or 2.5 X efficiency (1 unit of energy = 2.5 BTU). About 35-45F its about 1:1 or a little less. At that point, you need supplemental heat. In your home a good old electric resistance heater strip cuts in (and the wheel on your electric meter spins like crazy!). In a View the supplement is the propane furnace. Now the complicated part... There is two heating systems..LP & HP and they work independently or in tandem depending on what the "brain" tells them to do.
The HP has a complicated algorithym governing when the furnace supplements....
(Assume you had the LP master ON and thermostat was in HP mode.)
If the room temperature is more than a couple degrees colder than the setting on the thermostat, the HP and the furnace operate together (warm air at ceiling and floor ducts) until ambient and thermostat match. At that point the HP will maintain the temperature and run as long and as often as necessary.
If the HP can't keep up, the LP will cut in and "boost" the temp back to setting.
Here's where it gets tricky... if the HP looses efficiency to the point that the LP has to run for a period of time or frequently AND the temps are 40F or less.... The computer shuts down the HP to protect it and View will only heat with LP. Because LP has lots of BTUs...it may cut in and out as necessary.
Meanwhile, the HP is "locked out" until it gets above 40F or for several hours. If it tries and fails to cut the mustard it will lock out and try again later....and later...and later...until it can produce enough heat and the LP is not used.
HPs will also go into a defrost cycle for the outside coil... Sometimes you may hear the switch over by the 'swooosh' of the freon cavitating in the valve manifold as it suddenly is forced to change directions. In defrost, it will use the LP as heat source. (In defrost cycle you may feel cold air coming out the ceiling ducts (it is working as an AC unit!) and hot air at the floor ducts).
If the thermostat is set on GAS mode the HP is locked out and only the LP furnace works.
And, all of that stuff is noisy!!!!
The work around is to get a small ceramic cube heater from WallyWorld. Its small enough wattage to use in the camper on shore power. Put up front in the lounge. It will keep the coach warm (cooler in back for sleeping) without overheating the coach. And it is QUIET. Basically free heat on shore power!
Another hint is when using the HP you can spoof the "brain" by turning the LP Master OFF. Then you are HP only but you have to keep an eye on outdoor temps and know when to get the LP back on.
Also, in HP put the fan on LO. On AC fan on HI.
STARTING. If you are using the radio or display in the dash...switch the power supply from chassis to house. Left on accidently or if key is on and radio on it will suck the life out of the chassis battery. Switch is next to boost switch...easy to leave in wrong position...
Drive with House Master Electric ON.
Again, its complicated .. There's three charging systems.....doin' different things.
Alternator ....charges chassis and house with motor running
Generator .....charges house & NOT chassis
Shore..... Charges house and chassis