Purchase of 2011 Sprinter-multiple issues-now what?

[CanuckTim]

Hi All

Looking for some advise. A friend of mine purchased a 2011 Mercedes Benz Sprinter with an OM642 engine. They will be using it as a camper van.

A series of unfortunate events led to being stuck in a situation where there are a number of issues that were not identified at time of purchase. Here is a list of items and their cost. They are in Ontario, Canada and will be travelling to Florida for the winter.

Are the estimates reasonable?
I’m wondering if there are any work arounds or possible solutions to reduce the cost. The ball joint estimate seems crazy high

Lower oil pan leak - 386
Oil cooler and boost tube leak - 3370
Vacuum pump leak - 1085

Rear differential pinion leak - 220
Lower front ball joint - 1905
Alignment - 190
Brake wear Sensor harness -124

Thanks in advance!

[ctarmor]

You can replace the lower control arm yourself for a couple of hundred bucks is easy to do just get the right tools and get the torque.

[bigb56]

You might want to ask at the SprinterSource in the NCV3 section, lots of experts over there. The ball joint estimate may be a mis-print, seems really high. The NCV3 does have a transverse leaf spring up front though so I don't know if that adds to the difficulty of the job.

Be very careful on the oil cooler, it is not uncommon for this job to go bad and cost an engine. The problem is cleanliness. The engine must be thoroughly cleaned before oil cooler removal and extreme care taken to keep any debris from ending up in the ports. MB even has issued TSBs warning of this as it has happened at dealerships.

[SafariBen]

I don't have any sprinter experience, but I'd be considering what I really wanted to fix vs live with on a van that's 15 years old already. I know people love their sprinters, and I love my even older cummins also, but I would double check every one of those myself.



If they want to do it all, one option is to buy the parts, and get the work done in Mexico, but I wouldn't know how you'd find a reputable shop. If they're not interested in Mexico, then see if they can find a smaller independent shop that specializes in sprinters, somewhere in the midwest or south, preferably outside of the more expensive metro areas.

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by CanuckTim

Hi All

Looking for some advise. A friend of mine purchased a 2011 Mercedes Benz Sprinter with an OM642 engine. They will be using it as a camper van.

A series of unfortunate events led to being stuck in a situation where there are a number of issues that were not identified at time of purchase. Here is a list of items and their cost. They are in Ontario, Canada and will be travelling to Florida for the winter.

Are the estimates reasonable?
I’m wondering if there are any work arounds or possible solutions to reduce the cost. The ball joint estimate seems crazy high

Lower oil pan leak - 386
Oil cooler and boost tube leak - 3370
Vacuum pump leak - 1085

Rear differential pinion leak - 220
Lower front ball joint - 1905
Alignment - 190
Brake wear Sensor harness -124

Thanks in advance!

Who gave them the quotes?
Was it an authorized MB Sprinter dealership?
I would also recommend checking a more Sprinter specific web forum, like Sprinter-Source as they do have a lot of real world Sprinter experience over there. Some actual Sprinter repair techs, too.

[SteveNSue]

[QUOTE=CanuckTim;6928356]Hi All

Lower oil pan leak - 386
Oil cooler and boost tube leak - 3370
Vacuum pump leak - 1085

Rear differential pinion leak - 220
Lower front ball joint - 1905
Alignment - 190
Brake wear Sensor harness -124
[End Quote]


I've worked as a mechanic for many years and then as a customer service representative on mechanical systems. They always say that a mechanic has the worst running vehicle since they believe they know the limits before a problem it becomes catastrophic. I've lived with my mistakes, and other's, to know the truth to that statement. Here's how I would approach your issues.



Starting with the first item: Lower Oil Pan Leak. How much of a leak? Can you drive it one full day and then check the oil or does it leak enough to cause an engine failure? Is there a particular spot that leaks, like the front crankshaft seal, or is it the pan? Big difference in determining what might be the issue.



Is the Oil Cooler and Boost Tube leak the same source of oil for the oil pan leak or can it be isolated to the cooler and boost tube?



Vacuum pump leak: Rent a vacuum pump from an auto parts store (they want a deposit only, they are free to rent once you return it). Hook up the vacuum line to the RV's system and listen for a leak. Decide what needs to be fixed before you spend lots of money. Might be a worn or chaffed tube.



Rear differential pinion leak: This is one of the most common issue on older cars. The question is why does it leak? If the seal is worn, it is easy to replace. If the bearing is worn, this would cause the shaft to vibrate and it entails a little more work. A worn bearing will cause a whining sound when decelerating. Check your differential oil level to make sure it is not overfilled. This can cause it to leak. Same with parking the RV on a downward sloped driveway. Follow up with looking for clues: Is the differential covered in leaking gear oil? Does it drip oil when parked after driving.


I'm not sure about the lower front ball joint and will leave that to your discretion. Any repair on the front end would require an alignment so that is a given.


Brake wear sensor harness. Was your quote of $124 for one wheel only? Is that an issue that shows up on the dash? How did they determine it needed changing?



Take your issues apart and look for the simplest task to start with. I'd start with cleaning up oil leaks to determine if it is actually leaking and by how much. The previous owner likely lived with most of these problems and has some knowledge about how bad they are. Ask them or start trying to determine for yourself what they know that allowed it to evolve into the condition you are seeing now. Good Luck....

[CanuckTim]

Originally Posted by ctarmor

You can replace the lower control arm yourself for a couple of hundred bucks is easy to do just get the right tools and get the torque.

Thanks for the idea. I see that doing the control arm makes the process easier rather than getting stuck with a stuck ball joint.

[CanuckTim]

Originally Posted by bigb56

You might want to ask at the SprinterSource in the NCV3 section, lots of experts over there. The ball joint estimate may be a mis-print, seems really high. The NCV3 does have a transverse leaf spring up front though so I don't know if that adds to the difficulty of the job.

Be very careful on the oil cooler, it is not uncommon for this job to go bad and cost an engine. The problem is cleanliness. The engine must be thoroughly cleaned before oil cooler removal and extreme care taken to keep any debris from ending up in the ports. MB even has issued TSBs warning of this as it has happened at dealerships.

Thanks. I’m checking out sprint source now.

Thanks for the caution on the oil cooler. I had see videos of removing the oil coole with out doing the complete tier down but it appears this process might be prone to getting junk into the engine as you doing have clear access to clean up around it.

[CanuckTim]

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

Who gave them the quotes?
Was it an authorized MB Sprinter dealership?
I would also recommend checking a more Sprinter specific web forum, like Sprinter-Source as they do have a lot of real world Sprinter experience over there. Some actual Sprinter repair techs, too.

It was a Sprinter specialist but not a dealership.

[CanuckTim]

[QUOTE=SteveNSue;6928793]

Originally Posted by CanuckTim

Hi All

Lower oil pan leak - 386
Oil cooler and boost tube leak - 3370
Vacuum pump leak - 1085

Rear differential pinion leak - 220
Lower front ball joint - 1905
Alignment - 190
Brake wear Sensor harness -124
[End Quote]


I've worked as a mechanic for many years and then as a customer service representative on mechanical systems. They always say that a mechanic has the worst running vehicle since they believe they know the limits before a problem it becomes catastrophic. I've lived with my mistakes, and other's, to know the truth to that statement. Here's how I would approach your issues.



Starting with the first item: Lower Oil Pan Leak. How much of a leak? Can you drive it one full day and then check the oil or does it leak enough to cause an engine failure? Is there a particular spot that leaks, like the front crankshaft seal, or is it the pan? Big difference in determining what might be the issue.



Is the Oil Cooler and Boost Tube leak the same source of oil for the oil pan leak or can it be isolated to the cooler and boost tube?



Vacuum pump leak: Rent a vacuum pump from an auto parts store (they want a deposit only, they are free to rent once you return it). Hook up the vacuum line to the RV's system and listen for a leak. Decide what needs to be fixed before you spend lots of money. Might be a worn or chaffed tube.



Rear differential pinion leak: This is one of the most common issue on older cars. The question is why does it leak? If the seal is worn, it is easy to replace. If the bearing is worn, this would cause the shaft to vibrate and it entails a little more work. A worn bearing will cause a whining sound when decelerating. Check your differential oil level to make sure it is not overfilled. This can cause it to leak. Same with parking the RV on a downward sloped driveway. Follow up with looking for clues: Is the differential covered in leaking gear oil? Does it drip oil when parked after driving.


I'm not sure about the lower front ball joint and will leave that to your discretion. Any repair on the front end would require an alignment so that is a given.


Brake wear sensor harness. Was your quote of $124 for one wheel only? Is that an issue that shows up on the dash? How did they determine it needed changing?



Take your issues apart and look for the simplest task to start with. I'd start with cleaning up oil leaks to determine if it is actually leaking and by how much. The previous owner likely lived with most of these problems and has some knowledge about how bad they are. Ask them or start trying to determine for yourself what they know that allowed it to evolve into the condition you are seeing now. Good Luck....

Thanks for all the details, much appreciated! I’ll try to find out the specifics you asked. Makes sense to clean things up then reassess the situation.

[SteveNSue]

After I sent the previous list of recommendations, it occurred to me that you might want to start seeing if you have a positive crankcase pressure (i.e. air flowing out of the oil fill cap when checked while the engine is running). The PCV valve can clog up and without a positive airflow that would draw crankcase pressure into the intake, the pressure would be pushed out and can cause an oil leak. Remove the oil fill cap and hold you hand over the opening to see if there is air leaking out or if you can feel a slight vacuum. A PCV replacement is much cheaper, and easier, than pulling the pan and replacing the seals

[kenandterry]

Originally Posted by CanuckTim

Hi All

Looking for some advise. A friend of mine purchased a 2011 Mercedes Benz Sprinter with an OM642 engine. They will be using it as a camper van.

A series of unfortunate events led to being stuck in a situation where there are a number of issues that were not identified at time of purchase. Here is a list of items and their cost. They are in Ontario, Canada and will be travelling to Florida for the winter.

Are the estimates reasonable?
I’m wondering if there are any work arounds or possible solutions to reduce the cost. The ball joint estimate seems crazy high

Lower oil pan leak - 386
Oil cooler and boost tube leak - 3370
Vacuum pump leak - 1085

Rear differential pinion leak - 220
Lower front ball joint - 1905
Alignment - 190
Brake wear Sensor harness -124

Thanks in advance!

1. I’m guessing this vehicle was purchased uncertified?
2. Was a licensed mechanic involved in the purchase decision at all?
3. I don’t see where you identified the mileage on this 14 year old vehicle.

This vehicle sounds too risky to venture down to Florida as a camper van.