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Old 07-26-2017, 09:23 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Hooligan View Post
I would question your dealer... In 2 years my unit has stayed overnight a total of seven or eight nights, longest was across a weekend. They normally had clearance from Thor by the time they came back to me in the waiting room. When parts needed I kept the RV until parts arrived and then scheduled the work. I have called or e-mailed Thor with good results, same or next day return..


Dealer has advised Thor is not returning their calls,troubling.
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:34 PM   #16
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Living in Arizona, we anticipated this problem pre-purchase. Dual pane windows and 15k a/c unit were on our "must have or it's a deal breaker" list. Very happy with our choice now. Nice and cool on 100+ degree days.
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:48 PM   #17
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This is an in stock unit, I would have done the same thing as you did plus other items had I ordered it.
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:48 PM   #18
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IMHO you have a bad AC. I had this issue with my AC. I don't know the brand. Coleman has a two year Warrenty. Go to your dealer and have them get you a new unit. If they won't call the OEM, it's Dometic or Coleman. Look in your paperwork.
I spent a lot of time before I got my AC replaced. When it's hot the AC will cool your unit. Don't listen to people who tell you it's marginal. It's bad.
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Old 07-31-2017, 03:55 PM   #19
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You might want to measure the temperature off of the walls over the cab. Mine had no insulation between the inner liners and the outer fiberglass shell. Also the two vents over the cab bed had no (zero) airflow because the flex tubes from the air unit were poorly installed and crushed, The dealer had to take the ceiling down and replace the ductwork. I later had the ceiling and shell liners taken down and over cab shell insulated. It made all the difference in the world. Thor does not insulate the fiberglass shell and it acts like a heat radiator in the sun. The inner walls get really hot in the sun and the air conditioner just cant keep up. Mind you it is just the fiberglass shell over the cab and down the sides around the over cab windows.
Hope this helps, talk to the dealer about it before the warranty runs out. Hold you and or a lighter close to the vents up there and see if there is air flow when the unit is running and the main vent is closed..
Good luck, its a great rig when the bugs get worked out and the construction issues are resolved. Also look at all of the screws holding you basement doors on as many of mine were broke, loose or missing all together. Oh, one last thing. Check the wire under the drivers seat when you swivel it around. If it is not in the right location it will be torn out or broken. When you swivel around it will cause the airbag light to light up on the dash because it is the seatbelt sensor. The RV dealer will not fix that because it is considered a chassis problem and you will have to find a Sprinter shop.
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Old 07-31-2017, 04:04 PM   #20
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Thanks for the info, I had my suspicion about the insulation. I have installed foil in the cabinets. I will check those outlets. Met with the dealer today and they are installing a 15000 enhanced unit. I hope this will cure the cooling problem. Will keep all advised after I get it back.
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Old 07-31-2017, 04:09 PM   #21
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This is a mod myself and several others have done to significantly increase the airflow from the AC. I was in Galveston recently with temps in the upper 90's and no shade, coach stayed at 72 degrees and AC cycled off several times during the day. IMHO increased airflow = increased cooling, I know it works in our coach.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2044.jpg
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ID:	170952
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Old 07-31-2017, 04:11 PM   #22
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Hermbike, pull the vent cover off where the filter is. Look where the wires come to the unit. Mine had a big hole between the outer shell and inner. It would suck the hot air and try to cool it along with the returning air. Filled the hole with expanding foam All fixed
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Old 08-05-2017, 10:42 AM   #23
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keep hot air OUT to begin with

Two other tricks we've learned boondocking our 2011 Winnebago View 24K.

1) Keep the sun OUT to begin with. Park in the shade = 0 solar gain... or orient your coach to minimize solar gain (biggest sun facing windows facing north + awning covering west facing windows).

If you can't park in the shade:
*awnings on every large window. (We have Carefree 12' electric on our passenger side and spring loaded manual Carefree awning on the large window on our driver's side 10' slide out)
*1 or 2 layers of Reflectix in the inside window frame of each window
*Reflectix completely covering the outside of our large Mercedes Sprinter windshield (its like a greenhouse)

2) When away from your RV for extended periods of time with AC shore power, run your ceiling vent fans to reduce the cooling load you'll need when you return. Better to have the inside of your coach at outside ambient air temperature than an oven that will take HOURS to cool off with your AC unit. We have two 12V Fan-tastic 7350 thermostatically controlled ceiling vent fans that run off our coach batteries while we're off shore power... that run completely off our SunPower 327W solar panel (which is also recharging our coach batteries + electronics when its sunny). When we come back from exploring, our single 15k BTU AC can cool off our coach in 30 to 60 minutes, even in 110F Death valley temperatures.

3) start up your RV and turn on its AC unit (if you're campground neighbors don't mind the noise & smell).

4) if in a campground with water and your AC is running, spray the exterior of your coach with water to use evaporative cooling.

Enjoy!
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Old 08-05-2017, 11:31 AM   #24
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Thanks for the info
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Old 08-05-2017, 12:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soonerdave View Post
This is a mod myself and several others have done to significantly increase the airflow from the AC. I was in Galveston recently with temps in the upper 90's and no shade, coach stayed at 72 degrees and AC cycled off several times during the day. IMHO increased airflow = increased cooling, I know it works in our coach.Attachment 170952
Since I'm dense, what is it you did with the mod? Is it the downward vent?
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Old 08-17-2017, 10:58 AM   #26
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An update on the A/C, the dealer stepped up and replaced the original unit with a 15,000 enhanced unit. It has made it tolerable. I'm going to install a more efficient exhaust fan and a vent cover so hot air can escape and hopefully things will work out. Thor did not help at all their customer service had an attitude. If I had it to do over I wouldn't recommend buying their products. Manuals missing, components missing and trying to get information is never answered, bad experience. I have owned Safari, Monaco, Beaver and Holiday Rambler motor homes and where I had issues they always worked with me to settle them.
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Old 08-18-2017, 09:41 AM   #27
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Glad you got it resolved. Winnebago equips the View/Navion units with the 15.5 units as standard and I didn't think Thor would use anything that small.
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Old 08-18-2017, 10:23 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soonerdave View Post
This is a mod myself and several others have done to significantly increase the airflow from the AC. I was in Galveston recently with temps in the upper 90's and no shade, coach stayed at 72 degrees and AC cycled off several times during the day. IMHO increased airflow = increased cooling, I know it works in our coach.

Attachment 170952
What is this Mod? Is it a new AC Unit or some kind of aftermarket cover?
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