Community Forums

bcubed50 · 09-08-2018, 10:25 PM

Have a new Winnebago View 24D. On our trip from Iowa to Arizona the vehicle failed to start twice. Both times were after 300miles of driving. I disconnected the chassis battery (not sure this impacted the situation) and waited a short period (5min). It then started. Anybody else have this problem?

AudiDudi · 09-08-2018, 10:37 PM

You might look at this post from a couple days ago.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f280/wont-start-404333.html

Winterbagoal · 09-08-2018, 10:58 PM

I just added this post to the other one linked. I'll put it up here, in case it helps with this issue.

This sounds like a problem I had with a 1973 Ford Mustang about 40 years ago.

Drive for a while and after engine gets up to operating temperature, shut it off, for any reason. Then try to restart it, and no crank at all. Or, occasionally the dreaded dead/dying battery clicking of the solenoid. Wait a while and sometimes it would start.

The cause of that problem was related to the type of softer metal used in the electrical connections at the starter motor itself. The studs and nuts/washers used to secure the negative cable on the starter, were heating up over time, causing them to expand and contract, and eventually loosen enough with the vibration of driving, such that the amount of current getting through was insufficient to get the starter motor to engage and crank the engine.

The fix was double nutting, or adding a locking nut (or both) instead of the single standard washer/nut to tighten and secure the negative cable to the stud on the starter motor.
There was also a temporary field fix, if you could trace the negative cable to the starter motor, and tug or wiggle it a bit, it would sometimes make enough of a connection that the starter would turn the engine over.

EDIT: This has happened to me on my Navion, but not after a longish period of driving, and only the one time. In the driveway. It did start a few seconds later. I may have tried to start it too soon, before the self test/chiming had completed. I was in a hurry.

ViewFromHere · 09-10-2018, 10:04 PM

Yes, just happened to me the other day. Very short 10 mile trip , had lunch, went to start it and wouldn’t start until the third try...
New 2018 View 24J

luvlabs · 09-11-2018, 11:17 AM

There are several "won't start" scenarios, which one are you experiencing? Does the engine crank and not start or does the engine not crank. Makes a big difference in troubleshoot.

bcubed50 · 09-12-2018, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by luvlabs

There are several "won't start" scenarios, which one are you experiencing? Does the engine crank and not start or does the engine not crank. Makes a big difference in troubleshoot.

Mine does nor crank. The battery appears to be strong. You turn the key and nothing happens. All the ignition indicators light but no cranking happens.

Winterbagoal · 09-12-2018, 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcubed50

Mine does nor crank. The battery appears to be strong. You turn the key and nothing happens. All the ignition indicators light but no cranking happens.

One of the scenarios (I believe) is trying to start "too soon".
When you turn the key to the "run" position and the self test with all the dash lights starts, there's usually a chime sounding as well. I recall my dealer said it's a good idea to wait until the chiming stops, before engaging the "start" key position. Effectively, you're trying to start it "too soon".
Does that fit your situation?

Gard · 11-18-2018, 11:18 AM

I had this problem, after driving for a couple of hours if I turned off the engine I would have to wait about 20 minutes before it would start. Everything seemed normal when you turn the key with the dash lights and chimes. But it would not start or even click.

The fix was having the transmission valve-body replaced, that is where the switch that knows the transmission is in park is located. That fixed my problems.

This is a link to a video showing the problem I had.

https://youtu.be/gE9vmgpM9Cs

Ourrvtrip · 12-28-2018, 07:35 AM

My brand new 2019 Sprinter Dynamax is doing exactly what is occurring in this video. I was at a service station and filled up and then would not start for at least 10 minutes. I contacted MB hotline and they didn’t have this listed as a mass issue nor have a solution except to send a wrecker. Then it started and canceled service call. I then contacted local MB dealer and they haven’t heard of issue. I also found out in service call that my 2019 Dynamax sets on 2017 MB chassis. Hope they find a solution quick to this issue as I do not like filling up with engine running. Hasn’t thrown a loose fuel cap alarm either while filling up while running. Keep us posted if anyone finds solution. Seems if it was the trans valve body, that it would start in neutral??? Thanks, Tommy

luvlabs · 12-28-2018, 07:39 AM

Try replacing the starter solenoid. Apparently this was the "fix" the last time this subject came up.

smiller · 01-01-2019, 02:21 PM

In order to troubleshoot Sprinter 'no start' (more specifically, 'no-crank') problems you need to first determine whether the problem is in the low-current or high-current part of the system (otherwise you can easily chase your tail and spend a lot of time checking things that have nothing to do with the actual problem.)

To do this check the voltage on the solenoid terminal on the starter (it is the terminal with the single small wire) when the key is turned to start. If you see voltage (11-12 volts) then the problem is with the battery, cabling, or starter itself. In this case check that all connections are clean (including ground connections) and that the battery is in good shape and fully charged, but the most common cause (other than a weak battery) is a failing solenoid, in which case the easiest fix is to replace the starter (a brand new Bosch replacement is only about $150 and it is not difficult to replace, just a few common hand tools are all you need)

If you do not see any voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is in the start position then the problem is that the ECU has not authorized the start and this can be because of a number of issues (transmission not in park/neutral (or at least the ECU believing that the transmission is not in park/neutral), or some other condition that the ECU is not happy with. This can be difficult to troubleshoot without a code reader to display exactly what system is not reporting ready (transmission control module, key module, etc.), but basically that's what you're trying to figure out. One more possibility in this case is a small relay located inside the fusebox, worth a check.

Note that many no-crank problems (especially the solenoid) can be very intermittent, making it seem like one action or another affected the problem when it really did not. The ECU will not allow the start until everything is ready so it does not matter how long you wait before you turn the key, etc. If it is very cold you should wait until the glow plug lamp goes out after a few seconds, otherwise... doesn't matter.

Lastly, if the engine cranks properly but will not run then obviously there is nothing wrong with the starter system and that requires entirely different diagnostic steps. Most likely cause is a fuel supply/pressure issue and on a modern diesel these types of problems will usually require proper diagnostic equipment and a knowledgeable tech.

dennis45 · 01-01-2019, 02:33 PM

I had this happen once. Ign on, lights and chime time out. No crank.

I shifted out of park and back into park. Bingo away she went.

MarkMaxPayne · 01-02-2019, 03:33 PM

Same problem with a brand new 2018 Tiffin Wayfarer that I picked up this spring. Has happened to me 4 times now; all while on trips. Every time has been after a drive, twice after refueling while sitting at a gas station and once after checking in to an RV park. Very frustrating as you sit there blocking others for 10-15 minutes. When I talked with Tiffin they acknowledged they've only seen it with one chassis while trying to move it during assembly; and it was never repeatable.

I shared a write-up and a couple of YouTube video links with the head of Mercedes-Benz service here at home. He just scratched his head and said "this will be a hard one."

Has been sitting at the Sprinter dealership here in PDX for a month now. According to my security cameras, they haven't even looked at it yet; simply moved where it is parked. Had I known that, I would have canceled my storage contract and saved a monthly fee.

The problem I've seen is when somebody has this problem and gets it fixed, there are not really any follow up posts as to what the diagnosis was nor the fix. What I have seen is random attempts at fixing by replacing either the ground connection to the engine, the starter, the key sensor, park sensor, computer. Because there is not a diagnosis, the fixes look like guesses.

Best,
-Mark

Carl & Shelly · 01-02-2019, 04:10 PM

Hi Mark,
My 2018 Wayfarer does this all the time, Salem dealer said it is normal,
in my case if I remove the key and then reinsert the key, it will crank right up,
Should I decide not to remove the key it can take 10 minutes or so for it to crank, never cold or first start up only after it has been running, shut off and go to restart after a few minutes and not removing the key.
Carl