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LAT-LON · 08-15-2020, 08:48 AM

My Winnebago View has two propane solenoids, one main and one secondary. The main solenoid is reputed to draw quite a bit of current while in operation. Haven't heard anyone complain about the secondary solenoid. The main solenoid switch is accessed through one of the basement compartments while the secondary solenoid switch is in the cabin. Since it is easier to actuate, its current draw isn't as much an issue. The main cutoff solenoid is necessary because the propane tank is mounted inboard on the chassis and not easily accessible for turning the line On/Off manually.

Has anyone come up with a solution for dealing with the main shutoff solenoid high current drain, other than going out and shutting off the controlling switch all the time

? Don't know why they didn't that switch inside as well.

Winterbagoal · 08-15-2020, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LAT-LON

My Winnebago View has two propane solenoids, one main and one secondary. The main solenoid is reputed to draw quite a bit of current while in operation. Haven't heard anyone complain about the secondary solenoid. The main solenoid switch is accessed through one of the basement compartments while the secondary solenoid switch is in the cabin. Since it is easier to actuate, its current draw isn't as much an issue. The main cutoff solenoid is necessary because the propane tank is mounted inboard on the chassis and not easily accessible for turning the line On/Off manually.

Has anyone come up with a solution for dealing with the main shutoff solenoid high current drain, other than going out and shutting off the controlling switch all the time

? Don't know why they didn't that switch inside as well.

It's outside so the fill station guy can make sure you didn't leave it on.
Do an internet search on "slaying the propane vampire". There are some DIY fixes available.
My propane tank is also buried in the bowels. One of the pet peeves I have with Winnebago's design team.

KanzKran · 08-16-2020, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

It's outside so the fill station guy can make sure you didn't leave it on.

Wire another switch somewhere inside, in series with the outside switch. The propane guy can shut if off to fill, and you can leave the inside off most of the time. Just have to remember to turn the outside switch back on after filling.

Old-Biscuit · 08-16-2020, 08:20 PM

Switch needs to be ON for propane to flow.......
Inside switch/outside switch.....what does it matter. Turn it off and you will isolate propane system and not be able to use any propane appliances

LAT-LON · 08-17-2020, 06:50 AM

I've looked at some of the solutions to the propane tank solenoid current issues. Since both of the switches are in series, either will turn off the main solenoid. I have a 12VDC refrigerator, so my easiest solution would be to just only turn the inside switch ON when I needed propane for the stove, genset or heater.

Camper Ken · 08-20-2020, 09:35 PM

Would someone please educate me on a basic question? Do these propane solenoids draw current when they are "on" or "off". In other words when the propane is flowing, or not flowing? Thanks.

KanzKran · 08-21-2020, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper Ken

Would someone please educate me on a basic question? Do these propane solenoids draw current when they are "on" or "off". In other words when the propane is flowing, or not flowing? Thanks.

The valve coil is energized to open the valve and allow LP gas to flow.

LAT-LON · 08-21-2020, 07:20 AM

I agree with KanzKran. There are several types of solenoid valves, but the ones used in this application only allow for the flow of propane when energized (or when the switch is turned "ON").

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I've looked at all of the solutions presented on various forums and I've decided that since I only need propane for the stove, generator and heater, I'll just turn the propane solenoid OFF when there is no need. The added current drain used during cooking is minimal. When the genset is running, I'm producing power and I rarely ever use the heater. If things change, I'll probably go with the buck regulator solution. It's easy to implement and effective.

KanzKran · 09-13-2020, 06:09 PM

Out of curiosity, I just checked the current in the main gas solenoid, and it’s drawing 1.1 to 1.2A continuously, using the BMS display values. That’s a lot of current to be drawing 24/7 if it’s not shut off when not being used.

I have 600 Ah with 300W of solar, and with the fridge running about 50% of the time, I’m losing ground on battery charge. The lowest I can get the steady-state parasitic load is 2.2A, with everything shut off, including the inverter, and even the TV amplifier. That’s 53 Ah every 24 hours, plus fridge (about 6A, but 50% duty cycle), minus what solar can put back, which wasn’t much today in the rain up north near Lake Ontario in mid-September.

Now I understand why you’re concerned.

Oh, and no shore power charging because I’m running the battery back down to about 50% for storage for a while.