Chassis batteries 2014 36.1 Palazzo

[just_cruisin]

What size and spec are our chassis batteries?

I’m getting a continuous low battery voltage warning, not just the normal one on start up.

Probably time to buy some new ones....any recommendations from Palazzo owners who have replaced theirs?

Thanks

[bandorr2000]

Replaced ours with Trojan AGM. Not cheap but maintenance free. ‘14 35.1

[doublebs]

How are those agm batteries working out and do you have a link to the size or model number of the Trojans you installed. Did you have to change out the invertor/convertor and what setting are you using?

[twinboat]

If your getting low voltage warnings on the dash, after startup, you have a charging problem, not a battery problem.

Bad alternator, belt or tensioner.

You don't need AGM batteries in the chassis position. Maintance free gp31s are often used for starting.

The inverter/charger setting are for the house or couch batteries, not the chassis batteries.

[just_cruisin]

Originally Posted by twinboat

If your getting low voltage warnings on the dash, after startup, you have a charging problem, not a battery problem.

Bad alternator, belt or tensioner.

You don't need AGM batteries in the chassis position. Maintance free gp31s are often used for starting.
.

Thanks, yeah the situation is confusing. Starts fine but after driving awhile I get the low voltage warning on the dash. When I stop, it automatically raises the idle to 1500ish.

Batteries are 2018s. So how do I troubleshoot the charging system? Is there anything I can do or am I stuck taking it to Freightliner?

[twinboat]

If your on shore power before you drive, the bi-directional charging system is keeping your chassis batteries charged up.

Once on the road, chassis loads are drawing on it and the voltage is dropping. That causes the low voltage warning.

The charging system senses the low voltage and kicks up the RPMs to attempt to charge. If the alternator isn't putting out 13.5+ volts, higher RPMs will not help.

Do you have a volt gauge on the dash or a system to monitor chassis battery voltage ? That's what you need to check.

If its not showing at at least 13 volts, with shore power and generator OFF, you have a alternator problem.

You can go to any shop that will work on it or call a mobile RV repair service and explain your problem.

Until you get it fixed, you may be able to leave the generator running. That will supply the chassis battery with a charge from the house system.

Just make sure its not a belt issue. They often power other things that need to be turning.

[just_cruisin]

Originally Posted by twinboat

If your on shore power before you drive, the bi-directional charging system is keeping your chassis batteries charged up.

Once on the road, chassis loads are drawing on it and the voltage is dropping. That causes the low voltage warning.

The charging system senses the low voltage and kicks up the RPMs to attempt to charge. If the alternator isn't putting out 13.5+ volts, higher RPMs will not help.

Do you have a volt gauge on the dash or a system to monitor chassis battery voltage ? That's what you need to check.

If its not showing at at least 13 volts, with shore power and generator OFF, you have a alternator problem.

You can go to any shop that will work on it or call a mobile RV repair service and explain your problem.

Until you get it fixed, you may be able to leave the generator running. That will supply the chassis battery with a charge from the house system.

Just make sure its not a belt issue. They often power other things that need to be turning.

It’s at start up AND while driving, hence my thought that maybe it’s the chassis batteries. They don’t appear to be getting much above 12 volts.

Maybe the inverter / charger isn’t topping them up when on shore power?

[twinboat]

If the inverter/charger wasn't topping them up while on shore power, by your second day of travel it wouldn't start.

You have a engine charging system problem. If it sat in storage a few months, it probably needs the alternator rebuilt.

[just_cruisin]

Originally Posted by twinboat

If the inverter/charger wasn't topping them up while on shore power, by your second day of travel it wouldn't start.

You have a engine charging system problem. If it sat in storage a few months, it probably needs the alternator rebuilt.

Well it’s something weird for sure. It’s always plugged in to shore power. Recently it was in a shop for a week and I have a feeling something happened and it wasn’t charged.

I went around and tripped and reset every breaker. While doing that I noticed the Magnum inverter/charger had a slow blinking green light (main unit not the remote). I did a soft reset, heard a clunk, got the fast flashing light....but the light never went off. Remote said stuck relay. So I did a hard reset and got everything back.

Had to leave for work, but I’ll check when I get back if that solved things.

[bandorr2000]

Originally Posted by doublebs

How are those agm batteries working out and do you have a link to the size or model number of the Trojans you installed. Did you have to change out the invertor/convertor and what setting are you using?

I’m sorry, missed that you were talking chassis batteries, I replaced our 4 house batteries with AGM

[twinboat]

My point is that the Magnum and most other components have nothing to do with the low battery light on the dash, while driving down the road.

The alternator is connected directly to the chassis battery, no fuse, no breakers, no solenoids.

If the low battery light is on, your problem is in the chassis charging system.

[doublebs]

Can I ask what battery model number of Trojan battery's you installed as there is a lot of different sizes and what setting you set your magnium to charge them. Do they seem to last longer than the flooded batteries?

[Stiltner]

I just replaced by 4 year, 3 month old, flooded batteries with Lifeline AGM's, GPL-4CT. $439.00 each. Installation was free at Batteries Plus. They had older batteries, but offered batteries manufactured in January 2020 that had just come in. I supervised and they did exactly what I would have done. They even cleaned the bay and cables. It was an easy swap out to include the battery holders. Talked with Magnum, and they confirmed that remote monitoring panel should be set to AGM1 as it is exclusively for Lifeline AGM Batteries. AGM2 is for other AGM brands, then there is custom for iON Lithium.

Load tested the old Interstate flooded and 1 was no reading, 2 had replace, and 1 had a weak. Other than bulging, I speculate that I didn't have any other pre-warning that they were bad due to my solar system.

Originally, I wanted Trojan batteries, but they are not widely available in Northern California. Liefline batteries are manufactured on the west coast.

[just_cruisin]

Chassis batteries folks..... I’m talking about the chassis batteries.