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Old 01-30-2021, 08:04 PM   #43
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I will start on repairing mine soon . Thanks for the pictures, they are a great help. What caulking type will you be using to seal the new flooring to the angle iron frame ?


Also what sealant will you use when you reinstall the bay door ?




Thanks
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Old 01-31-2021, 05:46 PM   #44
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Not completely sure yet. I bought GE white silicone for inside box seams. Might spray all bottom seams under the coach with black flex seal. The top corner of the wheel wells need to be addressed. Might install aluminum angle iron then flex seal that. Also that panel above the passenger side rear is loose. I will caulk that in with extra screws. I’m planning on making that wet bay pretty water tight. Might even resaw some white Azec strips for under the water tank to allow air circulation in the case of a leak or spill. For now I’m just going to pick up the metal and start fabbing up the structure.
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Old 01-31-2021, 06:53 PM   #45
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I thought about white ProFlex caulking and then using their clear proflex to seal the door frame after the reinstall.
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Old 02-16-2021, 11:37 AM   #46
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So here is all the welding I’ve completed including the brackets I modified to actually hold the holding tanks on the driver side. One of the brackets on the grey tank was not even in the lip of the tank so I modified that to go behind the door hinge and grab the lip.

I added 3 pieces of angle to the passenger side floor and 4 pieces to the driver side/middle. I put the floor in with 4 pieces. You can see where I seemed a smaller piece in on the driver side as I welded 2 pieces of angle together for support.

I bought stainless pan head screws to hold it all down. Going with silicone as a sealant/glue to adhere it to the frame.
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Old 02-22-2021, 09:19 PM   #47
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Gearhead 777- VERY, VERY impressive.

I removed door & frame, but still couldn’t remove tank. Pix shows attempt befor removing door & frame. Pix is first attempt before removing door & frame.You are amazing!

When tank was moved as far as possible to passenger side I discovered floor was no where near as bad as I thought nor as far gone as yours.

Got lucky for once

I bolted 3/4” treated plywood to underside thru metal frame. Undercoated

Then cleaned interior with acetone & fiberglassed floor & up the walls about 4” .

Some more caulking and touch up, it should be ready to go.

2-200 W heaters on T-stat plug works well for cold weather. Peter
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Old 02-23-2021, 06:04 PM   #48
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Very nice job Petcar! The tank was not easy to get out and I'm a little nervous putting it back in after I just replaced the floor as the new floor is about 1/4" thicker. I used silicone and stainless pan head screws to hold the floor down to the new framing last night. I used that roofing repair tape on the seams under the tank and to cover any screw heads. I'm working on the walls now.

I do like your approach with the fiberglass, very creative.

Do you run your city hook up through the pump? Trying to figure out your pictures but these damn adds keeping blocking my view.

I'm about to take off my tires to fill in all the areas in the inner fender wells where all the water comes in.
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Old 02-24-2021, 05:54 PM   #49
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Gearhead777; the short answer is yes.

I fill the fresh tank and use tank water almost always. That way tank water is always fresh.

I have used city water directly (through pump) with no problems.

Plumbing was rerouted for the same reason the floor needed repair, the &%*$@ ANDERSON VALVE. (Pardon my language.)

Rebuilt valve once, replaced once... leak soon started again.

Idea to eliminate valve came from the smart Mister T.
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‘14 Palazzo 33.2. Peter, Carole, and Buzz. Where am I goin'? I don't know Where am I headin'? I ain't certain
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Old 02-24-2021, 08:24 PM   #50
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Petcar, thanks for the information and the pics. I just finished putting all the new panels in. Next is clean up the seams and caulk. I put down some of that roofing tape on the floor seams to early as I scuffed it all up sliding in and out a few dozen times forgetting tools! I’m a skinny guy and it’s a tight fit under those frame rails. I bought some black expanding foam for around the frame openings. I used 1.5” x 1/8” flat aluminum to join the seams together on the walls. I siliconed the aluminum and screwed it to the back side of the seams.
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Old 02-24-2021, 09:32 PM   #51
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Gearhead,
Wow! Looks great. That is a big job! Now I am discouraged.
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Old 02-25-2021, 10:34 AM   #52
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It is definitely a big job but not difficult. I tend to work slower because of my work schedule and having 2 little kids so I spend a couple hours a night. I'm crossing my fingers I can get the tank back in

I'm excited to seal it all up and start the plumbing in a week or so.
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Old 02-27-2021, 06:54 PM   #53
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Today I took a rear tire off and did some work in the wheel well area. The first pic shows how it was. Notice a giant hole against the frame area. Lot of water getting into the wet bay through there. I ended up taking that plastic fender wall down and siliconed along top and sides. I then screwed it back on with additional screws. Water was getting through along the top edge of that wall. I cut a piece of aluminum to cover that big hole. I siliconed that and screwed it in. Then I sprayed all seams with flex seal. I will do the same on the other side. I also siliconed the shower trap access panel and put more screws in that.

Notice the white pvc board over the bolts in the frame of the last pic. I did this because they were rubbing on the water tank. The pvc board is slightly past those bolts so the tank has a smooth surface to rub on. I black foamed all of the frame openings and got the tank back in!

Now onto plumbing configuration.
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Old 03-20-2021, 03:08 PM   #54
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Finished up the plumbing. Used a Viega mini block manifold to zone off everything. Relocated water pump, added hot/cold faucet to the passenger side of coach, used 5/4 composite strips to center water tank and bolted aluminum angle to hold it in place. Also added 3 100w flexible solar panels on the roof. Everything working great so far.
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Old 03-20-2021, 05:38 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead777 View Post
Finished up the plumbing. Used a Viega mini block manifold to zone off everything. Relocated water pump, added hot/cold faucet to the passenger side of coach, used 5/4 composite strips to center water tank and bolted aluminum angle to hold it in place. Also added 3 100w flexible solar panels on the roof. Everything working great so far.

Its a masterpiece!
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Old 03-20-2021, 06:41 PM   #56
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Thanks! I’m waiting on some 3M marine caulk to reinstall the bay door. I bought a roll of that white flex hose and made up new lines using pex crimp fittings. I made the lines going to and from the pump extra long For servicing and be able to pump water from a bucket if I ever need to. I’m planning on making a thin plastic panel to cover the holding tanks but will leave for now. Having an outside faucet on passenger side will be nice for a whole list of things. I still need to cut an access point under sewer hook up but I have to decide which plan I want to go with.
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