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Old 03-02-2015, 12:57 PM   #1
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Lubing and Oil Changes

I am getting ready to get under my Palazzo for the first time to lube and change the oil. I plan to deflate the air bags and extend the levelers. I have heavy duty jack stands for safety. Are there any tips from those who have done similar servicing?
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:57 PM   #2
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A point that I was not aware of is that jack stands are rated per axle, not stand. Therefore, my stands labeled 6 Tons can only hold 3 Tons each. I purchased 12 Ton stands for the Palazzo. Let us know how your oil and lube job goes. I have not done one yet either.
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:12 PM   #3
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I got two OTC stands each rated 12 ton. Did not have a chance to use them yet but they look and feel extremely strong and stable.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKPS38/
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:35 PM   #4
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lots of disposable rags...I.E. old blue jeans

5 gallon pail cut short by 3" to slide under the oil pan
dooo rag for the noggin,
i do all my annual maintenance over a 4 day period
not hard but can be tricky getting to places..the u joints are the hardest for me to get to
followed close by the ujoints on the steering shaft...especially the upper one
jack stand rated are a great safety thing, if not build wooden ramp/blocks and drive up on the them then the tires carry all the weight.
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:59 PM   #5
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Smile Oil change

Sounds like you have gotten good advise on the change procedure. I also have a question concerning oil change on my Ram truck. When traveling, I find it difficult to get to some Ram dealerships not to mention then having to park the 5'er and disconnect. I have always changed oil and all PM myself but wonder, if a person had a large drain pan, spill mat, and such, do RV parks frown on someone changing their oil and filter? Probably would drain after parking and while setting up and then about another 5 minutes to install plug, filter and new oil. Has anyone done that? Would then attempt to dispose of old oil at a larger truck shop that does maintenance. I use a 0 W 40 Synthetic motor oil that usually isn't available at most places.
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Old 03-02-2015, 04:06 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Walker View Post
I am getting ready to get under my Palazzo for the first time to lube and change the oil. I plan to deflate the air bags and extend the levelers. I have heavy duty jack stands for safety. Are there any tips from those who have done similar servicing?
It would give you more working room if you were to leave the bags aired up, then put some blocking under the jacks, within inches of the jack pads, then run the jacks down till the space under the Coach is to your liking, with the jacks on the blocking, if they were to fail they will only go down a small amount (stowed/collapsed position) and not be able to drop down any further.... Jack stands for a backup if you desire. Just a thought.....
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Old 03-03-2015, 05:05 AM   #7
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My procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by J Walker View Post
I am getting ready to get under my Palazzo for the first time to lube and change the oil. I plan to deflate the air bags and extend the levelers. I have heavy duty jack stands for safety. Are there any tips from those who have done similar servicing?
OIL
Leave air bags inflated.
Put a couple of 2x6's under each rear jack.
Run rear jack all the way up.
I usually place a couple of concrete blocks under rear tires as a safety factor.
5 Gallon bucket will fit under pan with clearance and leave at full height. After draining I usually have about 2-3 inches left in bucket before overflowing.
Drop oil filter and pre-fill new filter prior to install.
I thread a funnel with a hose through rear grill in open position to allow me to pour new oil in. I use Shell Rotella 5W-40 Full Syn. Four gallons.

Grease
I purchased a air powered grease gun from harbor freight to handle the mass amount of grease fittings on coach.

Fuel Filters
I purchased a extra large side attachable 1/2" drive filter wrench from Amazon to change the filter bowled filter. Note: use a bucket under that as the pressure of fuel in tank will continue to flow out of housing when element is removed. Need to trace in-line somewhere for a shut-off valve or will pinch line off to prevent fuel flow. Lucky I have another 5 gallon buckket. Disassembled filter set up to install mid filter. Filled filter prior to install. Small filter rear of primary filter easy to change and pre-fill prior to install. Note: secondary rear filter had a recall, just make sure you purchase one that doesn't fall into recall production lot serial number.

Transmission spin-on filter
Remove filter and be careful not to loose the magnetic ring. Clean ring off prior to reuse. Fill filter prior to install. Pan internal filter will be changed @ 50-60K miles.{probably pay to have this done at a Freightliner or Cummins total care shop]

Cost of entire job @ $125.00 to $130.00.......If you shop around for items.

Hope this helps or scares you to a dealer to have this done. That could cost $400.00 and up!

Don
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Old 03-03-2015, 06:52 AM   #8
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Thumbs up First year maintenance

Hi All,

So where is the second steering U-joint? I have never found that on my 2014 33.2.
To lube the steering u joint, first locate it (I only can find one), it is just above the generator case and you can reach it form outside. You will need a second person to turn the steering wheel until you find the zerk.

Last summer I did ALL of the required one year maintenance and have some suggestions. Respectfully, I differ a little with some posts here.

Suggestions, be careful with high powered grease guns. Freightliner warns about this in the manuals.
Make sure the oil used meets Cummins engineering specifications and viscosity requirement. I find that farm stores have Cummins spec. oils.

There are Freightliner specifications for grease and power steering fluids, axle lubes also. Auto stores I find have low quality greases, finding grease is a job. The only place that I find high quality grease is Granger. $$

There are detailed maintenance schedules in your books and online. They want all sorts of things done, like P/S fluid drain and filter change, new air filter (note the manufacture date and make sure it is a fresh filter !!!). Make sure to inspect the entire air intake and make sure that there are no leaks, rodent damage, etc. Very important and easy to do.

Also, Rear axle drain and fill, front wheel hub fluid change, etc. etc.... The fuel filter is sold as a kit, follow directions on the kit. You will need clean diesel fuel to fill the filters.
Yep it is a lot of work. A real lot of work
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Old 03-03-2015, 12:52 PM   #9
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I appreciate all of the replies. My previous MH was a Thor Ultrasport with no air bags and I could do some things without even the levelers extended. The recommended procedure was to use jack stands whenever getting under the MH with the levelers extended. Now with air bags I have to learn some new procedures. The idea to fill the air bags and put wood under the levelers before they are extended is new to me and seems to definitely be the way to go. I put a pen to paper to outline the combinations of air bags and levelers. It shows that once the levelers begin to raise the MH the air bags no longer add clearance under the MH. Also, with the wheels off the ground the air bags exert a force on the axle that might not be recommended. So I am left with the procedure of deflating the air bags and extending the levelers. I will use jack stands. I will also use the suggested procedure of putting blocks under the levelers with the air bags up and levelers up. It provides some safety.
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Old 03-03-2015, 01:03 PM   #10
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Also, with the wheels off the ground the air bags exert a force on the axle that might not be recommended.
If I understand air suspension correctly, as soon as you start lifting RV with the jacks the leveling valves would dump pressure from the airbags because they would want to lower the body to the preset height.
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Old 03-03-2015, 02:55 PM   #11
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I appreciate all of the replies. My previous MH was a Thor Ultrasport with no air bags and I could do some things without even the levelers extended. The recommended procedure was to use jack stands whenever getting under the MH with the levelers extended. Now with air bags I have to learn some new procedures. The idea to fill the air bags and put wood under the levelers before they are extended is new to me and seems to definitely be the way to go. I put a pen to paper to outline the combinations of air bags and levelers. It shows that once the levelers begin to raise the MH the air bags no longer add clearance under the MH. Also, with the wheels off the ground the air bags exert a force on the axle that might not be recommended. So I am left with the procedure of deflating the air bags and extending the levelers. I will use jack stands. I will also use the suggested procedure of putting blocks under the levelers with the air bags up and levelers up. It provides some safety.
Hi Jim, sitting there aired up, your Coach/suspension is sitting at "Ride Height" per factory specs. Now with the blocking under the jacks, and when you start to put them down, the upper part of the Coach will rise, the air ride level control valve will sense the the body has raised, moving the control arm, it turn letting air out of the suspension(Air Springs). Your axle's will remain on the ground till the shocks are fully extended if you raise the body that far.....which is not needed. Now, there is no air in the bags, the body (upper works) is raised to the point where you can get in and do your job.........and if something for some odd reason happened to the jacks, the body can only come down to the "Ride Height" , jack fully retracted, and that is as far as it can go down, leaving you still ample room under it.........Just be careful when done, when preceding to get it aired back up and getting the blocking out from under the jacks........Most all air ride suspensions tend to roll forward a bit when airing up.........I leave it on the jacks/blocks, start the engine, air it up till the air dryer spits(Full pressure), now, slowly start to lower the jacks a bit at a time, when you are close to the ride height/starting point, the air level control valve will sense this, and start adding air to the suspension/bags......and if you do this slow enough, when the jacks are retracted, the suspension back to ride height, the jack pads should be off the blocks. Good luck, and take your time, and be careful
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:05 AM   #12
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.......Just be careful when done, when preceding to get it aired back up and getting the blocking out from under the jacks........Most all air ride suspensions tend to roll forward a bit when airing up.........I leave it on the jacks/blocks, start the engine, air it up till the air dryer spits(Full pressure), now, slowly start to lower the jacks a bit at a time, when you are close to the ride height/starting point, the air level control valve will sense this, and start adding air to the suspension/bags......and if you do this slow enough, when the jacks are retracted, the suspension back to ride height, the jack pads should be off the blocks. Good luck, and take your time, and be careful
That is more involved than I thought. It is good to know the process. A question I have is in retracting Palazzo levelers. I have a button to push for retract and I don't have control of the rate of retraction after that. It is an automatic sequence.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:16 PM   #13
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That is more involved than I thought. It is good to know the process. A question I have is in retracting Palazzo levelers. I have a button to push for retract and I don't have control of the rate of retraction after that. It is an automatic sequence.
Jim, I have HWH jack system, I can't control the rate of retraction,alls I can do is hit the rear jacks quick, then hit the front jacks quick, letting it down a little at a time,by pressing the down button's quick......and letting it down by doing this. If I just hit the "Retract" button, my system drops a lot faster than I like, so I control the drop. This is what I found that is the gentlest way to let my Coach down off its jacks. You might not be able to do this with your system. Do you have separate buttons for each jack? front/rear, side to side, UP/DOWN?
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Old 03-05-2015, 07:57 AM   #14
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Do you have separate buttons for each jack? front/rear, side to side, UP/DOWN?
I don't have HWH and I believe mine is Lippert. I can manually or automatically extend the levelers but retraction has one button and it is automatic. My last MH had HWH with only manual. I never had a problem with it. It was no frills but I had complete control.
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